Boris Bidjan Saberi
Boris compliments this well-cut suit with a boots, a t-shirt and a rain-shell, adding a casual feel to an otherwise tailored look. The entire show revealed maturity and growth from the German designer and it ranks as one of his best to date.
Juun was one of the designers championing a fuller cut this season and he executed it in style. The highlight of the show were pieces which were variants on the MA-1 design. Presented here with creative layer, an oversized turteneck and Duke Nukem army cut Juun shows he’s in strong form in 2013.
A slightly slouchy silhouette mixed with a all grey tonal fit make this outfit worth considering for Fall. Damir is able to pull off a series of romantic AND wearable looks this collection. For FW13 he has refined his aeshetic and make it a little bit more accessible to men this season without losing the essence of his design style.
Rick Owens has been a major influence in men’s fashion over the past 10 year and in that time created his own fashion universe. Here Rick presents a cleaned up minimal take on the goth-glam look that’s become his trademark. The belted samurai jacket returns with cleaner lines underneath his signiture leather pattern. Th personal highlight for me on this fit is the paneled leather pants but the whole thing just looks incredibly badass. It’s always a pleasure to see how Rick continues to evolve as a designer without every straying too far from his roots.
Dries Van Noten
Dries brings a more somber presentation for this fall/winter collection with a palette of earth tones and paisley prints. The quilted bomber here is something Dries executes so well. The minimal collar, slim but still puffy shape and patterned trousers put this look on my list.
Saint Laurent Paris Men’s
One of the most anticipated shows in Paris, Hedi sets out to prove that rock isn’t quite dead. I gave Hedi a hard time with his debut womenswear collection but I’m pretty pleased with his debut men’s showing. This look from the show is deceptively simple but it’s execution is spot-on for what Hedi wants to achieve. While many designers try to incorporate rock influences, this just looks the part effortlessly. The way it should always be in rock’n’roll.
The title of this collection is ‘Chinpira’ meaning ‘Punk’ celebrates a movement largely characterized by a concern for individual freedom and anti-establishment views. This stood out as one of my favorite collections all week as it struck a delicate balance between intricately crafted luxurious garments and subcultural styling. The above look has a yakuza feel and the glasses definitely Chow Yun Fat from John Woo’s The Killer in the best way possible.
Yohji Yamamoto is a master and he has once again put together a collection that any man would be lucky to have in their wardrobes. What I loved about this particular look was the cut of the camel overcoat and the little details fro the shape of the boots to the look of the pull over-hat. The leopard print hat and glued on mustaches of the models add a welcome dose of quirkiness and humor to an otherwise serious affair.
Since his moto collection Junya hasn’t put a ton of black in his collections but this mostly-black look is Junya at his best. The washed out denim chore coat hung on the shoulders with the patchwork blazer underneath and the not too baggy/not too slim cropped trousers add up to a brilliant outfit.
Kim Jones has really revitalized Louis Vuitton menswear and made the brand relevant again to fashionable guys worldwide. With looks like this, it’s easy to see why. The tonal plaid suit layered underneath the show-stopping shearling parka just looks incredible. The styling with the toque and t-shirt add just enough chav to keep these luxurious clothes from being only the domain of rich white men. I imagine this is how Eastern Promises would have looked with a larger wardrobe budget.
Whiz Limited is a brand that is new to me but has existed in Japan for a decade. The brand’s founder Hiroaki Shitano began with hand-made t-shirts with his friends and since then has expanded to create a complete men’s line. The concept of Whiz Limited is creating ‘Individual Clothing’ ; garments that represent different aspects of Tokyo culture without succumbing to a stereotyped, contrived “Tokyo Streetstyle”.
What i like about this collection are the well-executed outerwear pieces paired with the clean practical styling. The garments are takes on familiar men’s staples but the line does not go overboard on design details. Many current menswear designers have a tendency to overdesign at times and I think the restraint seen here should be applauded. What I also liked is that these full looks would be very easy for guys to wear but the styling also shows how many of the pieces can be worked into a variety of wardrobes. A quick glance at the web-store revealed prices for outerwear range from about ¥20,000 to ¥100,000 (Approx 1260 USD). I will definetly be featuring more coverage on this brand in the future.
via Fashion Snap
Facetasm Spring/Summer 2013 Collection
Detail shots of men’s looks
Facetasm does not make minimal clothing. As is obvious from the above photos , Facetasm is all about maximalism. Bold colors patterns , and fabrics combined with unorthodox styling define the brand and this season is no different. Hiromichi Ochiai cut his teeth designing for the likes of UNDERCOVER and COMME des GARCONS and has made the theme of the Spring/Summer 2013 collection ‘Flavor’. Certainly these looks don’t lack in that department. While the styling for Facetasm is a bit too over the top for my tastes, there are a few items that I wouldn’t mind adding to my wardrobe. I think the important thing observers of the brand need to recognize is that it really is a brand made for self-styling and expression; you should feel free to choose the pieces you like and wear them YOUR way even if it looks nothing like the runway looks. Each season of this brand so far has been quite different and I’m excited to see how the brand will progress.
Ohne Titel Spring/Summer 2013 at Milk Studios
Eckhaus Latta Spring/Summer 2013 at Milk Studios
Louise Goldin Spring/Summer 2013 at Milk Studios
Gerlan Jeans Spring/Summer 2013
The Blondes Spring/Summer 2013 at Milk Studios
Consider this post a B-side of photos I finally got around to posting from New York Fashion Week. The most promising take-away from it for me was that there are still many new ideas and approaches to fashion here in New York City. It’s easy to get caught up in the media coverage of what’s hot, but when you dig a little deeper there’s a whole wealth of designers who are creating something wonderful and unique just under the surface.
If you missed my earlier NYFW week coverage click HERE to see more NYFW shows.
Photos by Rocky Li
Luar Zepol Spring/Summer 2013: El Bosque Lo’ Que
In the middle of the glamor and glitz of the production that is New York Fashion Week Raul Lopez held a public display for his spring/collection of Luar Zepol. Models assembled in the Lower East Side off Broome street clad in space-age googles, mesh-hoodies, military-esque coats, eccentric prints and patchwork denim. The presentation had a gritty, DIY-feel and was a welcome reprieve from the PR checks and indoor lighting of most runway shows.
Luar Zepol is pushing forward with a look that is unlike anything else right now. I have no idea what Raul Lopez will come up with next but I do know that this is definetly a brand to keep an eye on moving forward. Curious minds should definetly read this feature on The Fader which touches on designer Raul Lopez’s backstory.
Photos by Rocky Li, more photos on VFILES
Hood by Air gave one of the most memorable and creative presentations of New York fashion week. Staged at the OUT hotel on the west side, the presentation was held on the astroturf rooftop and was fully interactive. All attendees were free to walk around, photograph and interact with the models. The collection itself took inspiration from 1990’s music and subculture. One shirt borrowed graphics from Aphex Twin while other pieces re-interpreted clothing that ranged from workwear to gothic. The end result was daring, different and true to head designer’s Shayne Oliver’s personal inspirations. It’s nice to see a collection like this that embraces the spirit of downtown New York culture in such a subversive way.
The brand has been making waves of late with heavyweight endorsers the like of A$AP Rocky and Venus-X and is selling out briskly worldwide. In the meanwhile you can purchase items from the HBA Classics line through Opening Ceremony and VFILES Store.
Photos by Rocky Li
If you haven’t seen any of these VFILES XFW (Xtreme Fashion Week) videos stop whatever you’re doing right now and click play on the above videos ASAP. Video coverage of fashion shows is often poor quality, bland and poorly edited but luckily for us these videos buck the trend. XFW captures the frenetic energy of fashion week and the guerilla style makes for lots of laughs and cameos (See if you can spot Devonte Hayes, M.I.A, Linda Fargo, Tilda Swinton, Nicola Formicheti Kenzo’s Humberto and Carol in the videos).
VFILES describes explains XFW as
“Imagine Elsa Klensch on 5-Hour Energy® with a camera strapped to her head — that’s Xtreme Fashion Week but with a cast of equally XTREME hosts: popstar Maluca Mala, fashion vlogger Marie Karlberg, and male model slash actor AJ English, and more. The premise: strap on a Go-Pro™, shotgun a Monster™, grab a branded microphone, and GO! (to fashion shows).”
But really you should just listen to me, grab a snack and cuddle up to your laptop.
Be sure to explore the VFILES Youtube Channel for more content.
Words by Rocky Li
Patrik Ervell Spring/Summer 2013 Review
By Rocky Li
Patrik Ervell presented his Spring/Summer 2013 collection at Milk Studios last week. The New York based, Swedish born designer took ‘A California Mindset’ when it came to designing this collection. Partially informed by mountaineering brands North Face and Teva, Ervell presented his own futurist vision of techwear sending an army of brightly colored models down the runway against a backdrop of a virtual setting sun. While Ervell usually plays it safe in terms of color palette (staying with muted off-whites, beiges and tans), he chose to branch out with vibrant navys, teals, and oranges for this season. Watching the collection unfold, I was at times reminded of the Undercover Spring/Summer 2010 collection ‘Less but better’. The silhouettes and cuts were what were ‘de rigour’ for the Ervell brand. I appreciate the look that has become Ervell’s signature and I welcome his experimentation this collection in extending the look in new directions.
I do have a few criticism of this runway show. One of the most jarring parts was the order of the presentation. There did not seem to be a clear progression from one look to another and even more confusing the designer sprinkled in womenswear looks throughout the show. This has something I’ve been noticing throughout New York fashion week and I can only think of a few instances where it was pulled off perfectly. I definitely saw the tech-wear edge to this show but I did not notice anything particularly innovative in that regard. If there was practicality and functionality in the garments or their fabrics, the presentation should made those product features clear. I don’t trust many fashion brands to create highly functional garments that serve to protect the wearer through the elements and in this light I think Patrik Ervell may have been channeling Prada in a way he didn’t intend.
Ultimately I do think that this Spring/Summer collection is a step in the right direction for Patrik Ervell. He has always shown promise since his entrance into the fashion world and I have an respect and admiration of his design sensibilities. If he continues to grow his brand smartly and works to expand his ‘look’ in unexpected ways, I can see the menswear brand lasting for many many years to come.
Photos by Rocky Li (via VFILES)
American fashion is often a slave to the overarching ideas of sale-ability and wearability. During a fashion week where many designers are attempting to stay relevant through trend-happy clothing Thom Browne continues to build upon the universe that he has long dreamt of living in. Mr.Browne claims the inspiration for the collection was the work of German painter, choreographer and sculptor Oskar Schlemmer.
The Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013 Presentation held at the Edna Barnes Salomon room of the New York Public Library was the absolute highlight of my New York fashion week. Against a backdrop of funhouse mirrors and giant silver pinwheels Thom spun a creepy, theatrical atmospheric and eye-catching narrative. An undead army of models clad in whale print, sculptural dresses, seahorses in bejeweled appliques, laser-cut out patterns and somber monochrome filled the room in designs that the Adam’s Family would die to own.
As his shows continue to wow fashion show attendees around the world, I believe Thom Browne deserves his due as a true industry visionary. After witnessing his Spring/Summer 2013 work I am so excited to see how Thom Browne can continue to add layers to his trademark prep style.
Thom Browne’s critics may ask the tired question : “Will any of this sell or be worn outside of this show?”. The response of anyone who had the pleasure of seeing this in person should be “Who cares?”
More photos of the collection on VFILES.
Words by Rocky Li
Photography by Rocky Li (via VFILES.)
Alexander Wang’s SS13 had all the markings of a huge NYFW production : top-shelf models, front-row celebrities and a show finale that literally glowed in the dark. Third Looks was on hand to give you a glimpse of the backstage madness.
More photos from the show can be seen on VFILES
Photography by Rocky Li
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