While fall/winter may be far from everyone’s minds right now, Silent Damir Doma delivers a collection of staples that can offer inspiration for how you dress right now. Silent has always been Damir’s expression of streetwear and here the usual tees, hoodies and light jackets are back in a black, white and in dusty grey/sand colors. While the goth-street aeshetic this fits into is now a crowded space, the execution of the stands above much of the competition. See more from the collection and explore the current offerings at Damir Doma’s online store.
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Future in Saint Laurent, Gucci Mane in Thom Browne
A$AP Rocky in C.E , Drake in Rick Owens
Kanye West in Damir Doma, Lil’B in Undercover & Dirty ass vans
Rap and fashion are increasingly interlinked to the point where it seems every other rap verse namedrops at least 2 designer names. I collaborated with English illustrator Rebel Youth on these sketches of various rappers in various gear from current SS14 and FW14 collections. Time will tell if any of these outfits will come to fruition in the real life but hope you find the idea of Guwop in TB or Lil’B wearing Undercover as amusing as we did.
Damir Doma has quietly built himself a fashion empire that topped over 9 million euros in sales in 2013. Silent (which launched in 2010) is ostensibly a diffusion line which offers moderately priced basics such as t-shirts, hoodies and denim. The spring/summer 2014 men’s collection marks a bit of departure from the brand as it embraces minimalism and some of the trends commonplace in menswear today: oversized graphic t-shirts, sweatpants.
That being said there is something refreshing about this line with it’s unique color palette: pastels and khakis done Damir’s way mixed with black/white and grey. I also appreciate the inclusion of both oversized and cropped summer outerwear overtop both slim shorts or baggier trousers and pants. While past collections of Silent were decidedly more bohemian (and more of a natural element to the materials), I like this cleaner direction for SS15 and I think there will be plenty of pieces worth picking up in it.
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Canadian Retailer SSENSE uses the mystery of an old movie theatre to produce a very ‘David Lynch’ feeling editorial which features this seasons pieces by Rick Owens, Givenchy, Juun J and Damir Doma and more..
Models Marc Massa @ FUSION NY + Emily Meuleman @ New York Models
Hair Makeup Andrew LY @ AGENCE L’ELOI using LA BIOSTHETIQUE
Photography & Art Direction SSENSE
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Boris Bidjan Saberi
Boris compliments this well-cut suit with a boots, a t-shirt and a rain-shell, adding a casual feel to an otherwise tailored look. The entire show revealed maturity and growth from the German designer and it ranks as one of his best to date.
Juun was one of the designers championing a fuller cut this season and he executed it in style. The highlight of the show were pieces which were variants on the MA-1 design. Presented here with creative layer, an oversized turteneck and Duke Nukem army cut Juun shows he’s in strong form in 2013.
A slightly slouchy silhouette mixed with a all grey tonal fit make this outfit worth considering for Fall. Damir is able to pull off a series of romantic AND wearable looks this collection. For FW13 he has refined his aeshetic and make it a little bit more accessible to men this season without losing the essence of his design style.
Rick Owens has been a major influence in men’s fashion over the past 10 year and in that time created his own fashion universe. Here Rick presents a cleaned up minimal take on the goth-glam look that’s become his trademark. The belted samurai jacket returns with cleaner lines underneath his signiture leather pattern. Th personal highlight for me on this fit is the paneled leather pants but the whole thing just looks incredibly badass. It’s always a pleasure to see how Rick continues to evolve as a designer without every straying too far from his roots.
Dries Van Noten
Dries brings a more somber presentation for this fall/winter collection with a palette of earth tones and paisley prints. The quilted bomber here is something Dries executes so well. The minimal collar, slim but still puffy shape and patterned trousers put this look on my list.
Saint Laurent Paris Men’s
One of the most anticipated shows in Paris, Hedi sets out to prove that rock isn’t quite dead. I gave Hedi a hard time with his debut womenswear collection but I’m pretty pleased with his debut men’s showing. This look from the show is deceptively simple but it’s execution is spot-on for what Hedi wants to achieve. While many designers try to incorporate rock influences, this just looks the part effortlessly. The way it should always be in rock’n’roll.
The title of this collection is ‘Chinpira’ meaning ‘Punk’ celebrates a movement largely characterized by a concern for individual freedom and anti-establishment views. This stood out as one of my favorite collections all week as it struck a delicate balance between intricately crafted luxurious garments and subcultural styling. The above look has a yakuza feel and the glasses definitely Chow Yun Fat from John Woo’s The Killer in the best way possible.
Yohji Yamamoto is a master and he has once again put together a collection that any man would be lucky to have in their wardrobes. What I loved about this particular look was the cut of the camel overcoat and the little details fro the shape of the boots to the look of the pull over-hat. The leopard print hat and glued on mustaches of the models add a welcome dose of quirkiness and humor to an otherwise serious affair.
Since his moto collection Junya hasn’t put a ton of black in his collections but this mostly-black look is Junya at his best. The washed out denim chore coat hung on the shoulders with the patchwork blazer underneath and the not too baggy/not too slim cropped trousers add up to a brilliant outfit.
Kim Jones has really revitalized Louis Vuitton menswear and made the brand relevant again to fashionable guys worldwide. With looks like this, it’s easy to see why. The tonal plaid suit layered underneath the show-stopping shearling parka just looks incredible. The styling with the toque and t-shirt add just enough chav to keep these luxurious clothes from being only the domain of rich white men. I imagine this is how Eastern Promises would have looked with a larger wardrobe budget.
I’ve seen Jeremy post his fits in the past in superfuture “What are you wearing today” threads and have appreciated the evolution of his style. When I heard through a mutual friend that he was going to be in New York, I linked up with him to speak a bit about the fashion in Australia and also shoot a this style profile.
Currently Jeremy manages the Sydney outpost of one of the best shops in Australia Assin. They have two locations (one in Sydney and one in Melbourne) and carry top designer labels such as Undercover, Damir Doma, Miharayasuhiro, Ann Demeulemeester. He definitely exemplifies the type of brand mixing and experimentation that I personally recommend to guy’s looking to improve their personal style.
Describe your personal aesthetic and how your style evolved to it’s current point.
I don’t really categorise the way I dress so I guess you could say it’s quite eclectic. I lead a pretty casual lifestyle so I focus on being comfortable. I don’t like to stand out too much but I do like outfits that are unexpected so I mix and match labels, streetwear with designer pieces and try to create simple but interesting silhouettes and shapes. It’s evolved quite slowly, I really was just a jeans and t-shirt guy but started falling in love with some designers and their work and would pick up pieces that really spoke to me. Not always did they tie in with what I had in my wardrobe already so I would seek out complimentary pieces and eventually it all just came together.
New Era Fitted Cap
Damir Doma Bomber
Rick Owens DRKSHDW Hoody
New Balance Sneakers
How has managing a shop and seeing new items come in constantly changed the way you shop for yourself?
At the moment I tend to focus on shopping for statement pieces or something thats really unique. I’m at a point where I’ve got the classics and basics as the foundation of my wardrobe so any amazing shapes and fabrics really draw me in. Working where I do I see incredible pieces everyday so I tend to fall in love easily – my list is huge.
You seem to be quite confident in mixing and matching different brands. What advice do you have for other guys looking to do the same?
I think the best direction is not to stray too far from your comfort zone or jump on trends too much. Find pieces you have a connection with and just work around them. It’s more about considering your lifestyle and overall silhouette then just putting a signature high fashion piece with what you already wear. You see guys with a pretty conservative look, raw denim and button up shirts, but they will throw Rick hi-tops in the mix and everything looks off. If you feel uncomfortable more then likely it’s going to look that way. Get out in the stores and give everything a try. Shopping online is a great way to find new things but nothing beats handling a garment and trying it on – you instantly know if it works for you or not.
Damir Doma Silent T-Shirt
Ann Demeulemeester Sweater
Ann Ann Sneakers
What are some of your style inspirations?
To be honest I think I am more inspired by the garments themselves and the hard work the designers put into them but I do draw a lot of inspiration from the Japanese. Japanese street fashion magazines like Tune show some incredible outfits – designer labels, vintage and everything in between. You see some wacky stuff but somehow it looks totally natural on these guys. Even Vogue Homme Japan, puts together some zany stuff. Then it’s about pulling out the practical from the sometimes theatrical and doing your own thing.
More questions and images after the jump
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His look: Rick Owens Men’s Short Sleeved T-Shirt | Damir Doma Men’s Jelesto Bomber Jacket | Damir Doma Men’s Chanos Coat
Her look: Kolor Women’s Seam Detail Shorts | Jil Sander Women’s Box Sweater | Damir Doma Women’s Channa Coat | Cherevichkiotvichki Women’s Bark Dyed Ankle Boots
His look: Damir Doma Men’s Candiru Coat | Lanvin Men’s Tuxedo Collar Mix Material Shirt | Yohji Yamamoto Men’s Striped Tuck Trousers | Lanvin Men’s Gum Effect Calfskin Low Trainer Shoe
Her look: Haider Ackermann Women’s Steiner Jacket | Yang Li Women’s Skate Shorts
His look: Jil Sander Men’s Vilnus Jacket | Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus Men’s Jaquard Jersey Trousers
Her look: Lucas Nascimento Women’s Basket Weave Short Sleeve Top
His look: Lanvin Men’s Double Breasted Slim Collar Coat | Jil Sander Men’s Geometric Pattern Jumper | Damir Doma Men’s Drop Crotch Pintano Trousers | Lanvin Men’s Merinos Velvet Lambskin Mid Top Trainer
Her look: Boboutic Women’s Crew Neck Metallic Yarn Jumper | Boboutic Women’s Soft Jacquard Trousers | Cherevichkiotvichki Women’s Bark Dyed Ankle Boots
His look: Lanvin Men’s One Button Short Jacket | Lanvin Men’s Wool Gaze Polo Neck Jumper | Damir Doma Men’s Pholis Fisherman Trousers
Her look: Lucas Nascimento Women’s Chenille Crew Neck Sleeveless Bodice Top | Yang Li Women’s Skate Shorts
LN-CC presents a series of looks for men and women set against a futurist geometric backdrop. While many of the items on LN-CC are definitely covet-worthy I appreciate that the styling on the site brings everything together.
The good folks at SSENSE posted an interview today with croatian-born designer Damir Doma . In it, Damir speaks candidly on a variety of topics from his mother’s influence on him to the industry to how SILENT has developed over time.
YOU’VE HAD THE CHANCE TO WORK ALONGSIDE INDUSTRY HEAVYWEIGHTS LIKE RAF SIMONS AND DIRK SCHÖNBERGER – TELL US ABOUT WHAT YOU TOOK FROM THE EXPERIENCE?
WHEN PEOPLE TALK ABOUT FASHION AND THOSE DESIGNERS, THEY MOSTLY SEE THE SURFACE, BUT THE SURFACE IS NOT REALLY INTERESTING FOR ME. FOR ME, THE MOST INTERESTING PART ABOUT MY PERIOD IN ANTWERP WAS SEEING HOW DIFFICULT IT IS TO MANAGE YOUR OWN BUSINESS, DIRK AND ALSO RAF WERE BOTH STRUGGLING, IN A WAY.
THAT’S THE STRANGE THING ABOUT FASHION – THAT THERE ARE THESE TWO SIDES: THE WHOLE PRESS SIDE, THAT LOVE TO TALK ABOUT THE EXCITEMENT OF THE FASHION WORLD BUT THEN THE REALITY OF OUR BUSINESS IS SOMETIMES A BIT MORE BRUTAL AND REAL, AND THAT WAS A VERY IMPORTANT LESSON FOR ME.
Read the rest of the interview HERE
It’s a real honor to style profile Izzy Tuason of The Dandy Project. In the fashion industry a strong point of view counts for a lot. Izzy has been showcasing his personal aesthetic and his fashion favorites through his blog for years. His style is eclectic and I’ve always admired his ability to mix designer brands with vintage items, while working in accessories and even DIY pieces. As I shot this with him our conversations ran the gamut from clothes to film to music. I cherish any opportunity to have well-thought out, intellectual discussions on the clothing and culture we love. I’ve shared some of the dialogue we had through interview questions below. Through Third Looks I am striving to bring more of that to the forefront in the coming days.
Comme des Garcons SHIRT chinese character-print rayon shirt
Comme des Garcons Homme Plus drop-crotch shorts
Converse Chuck Taylor shoes
3.1 Phillip Lim tuxedo shirt
3.1 Phillip Lim raw-edged wool shorts
Casio watch on Native American turquoise and coral sterling silver band
Kung-Fu shoes from Chinatown
Has blogging changed your outlook on the fashion industry and your own personal style?
Blogging has worked as a very public mirror by which I can re-examine my thoughts on fashion and my personal style, and it has connected me with people who continue to enrich me.
The DIY posts on your blog are great. How long have you been doing your own DIY projects and what made you decide to share them online?
I’ve been doing the DIY posts early into the blog, which I started in 2008. I was living in Manila then, with very little access to fashion, and the way I thought I could best express myself was by creating my clothing. I wanted to share this process of creation with my readers.
Damir Doma cotton-cashmere long t-shirt
Damir Doma drop-crotch pants
Guidi platform chelsea boots
We spoke on how a lot of your style inspiration from outside of fashion. What are some things or places you turn to for inspiration.
I get inspired by a lot of things—film, television, music, people around me, and the thoughts in my head. Right now, I’m inspired by the sleek masculinity of Wong Kar-Wai’s heroes, the dark pragmatism of Walter White’s wardrobe in Breaking Bad, the exuberance of Twin Shadow, the natives of Bushwick, and the idea of comfort.
Number (N)ine sunglasses
Yohji Yamamoto shirt
Yohji Yamamoto wool hakama pants
Converse Chuck Taylor shoes
As you continue to accumulate more pieces in your wardrobe which item would you never ever part with willingly?
The Yohji Yamamoto pants I’m wearing in one of your photographs are one of my all-time favorites. The volume and size are seemingly ridiculous, but in reality, it is quite a subdued piece. Weird never goes out of style.
Any holy grail pieces you are still searching for or regret missing out on?
Black Guidi derbies
The perfect oversize double-breasted below-the-knee Yohji Yamamoto coat
The perfect body-skimming Julius leather jacket
A Patek Philippe Nautilus in steel
What are some of your favorite places to shop both online and in-store?
The LN-CC, Assembly New York, Atelier New York, IF Boutique, Park & Bond, and eBay.
Photos by Rocky Li
This past week I saw a notification pop-up from Graham Newmarch inviting me to become a fan of re.porter. Clicking through to the facebook page and subsequently the website, I was greeted with pieces from CCP, Ann Demeulemeester, and Julius. What initially struck me was the quality and consistency of the styling and the rarity of some pieces. I could tell this was not the average webstore. I reached out to Graham [founder of re.porter] to learn more about his venture and gain insight to his unique approach to online retail.
Explain the concept behind re. porter and how the site came to be
Good things happen when friends move to china. that is to say, because my best friends moved to Guangzhou, leaving me [and all their professional studio equipment] behind. I had already been doing consignment via eBay for some of my retail clients, and didn’t hesitate to seize this opportunity to take it to an entirely new level.
re. porter, literally translated, means to wear again. It’s a simple play on words with the prêt-a-porter collections we’re all so accustomed to drooling over a palm-full of times each year. As simple as it might be though, it says a lot about what I want re. porter to become.
High fashion is supposed to exist outside the strictures of time-driven stresses. it’s supposed to remain unaffected & uninfluenced by trends, focusing instead on the exploration of its own particular expression, voice, or style. it’s supposed to be timeless…
Unfortunately, when it comes to the retail side of things , time is a very real factor – and of prime concern. boutiques are under severe pressure to get stock in as soon as possible, and move it out just as fast. Having spent a lot of time working in luxury retail [Komakino in Vancouver, and Layers in London] I’d always wanted to run my own store, but never liked the aggressive nature of brick and mortar sales – and the luxury retail-world as a whole.
With re. porter – I have a unique opportunity to pay homage to the timelessness I’ve always so idealistically attributed to my favourite designers’ work. old[er] pieces from Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens, or Damir Doma combine effortlessly with any of their latest seasons’ offerings. re. porter provides its clients with the opportunity to find sold-out gems from their favourite designers’ past seasons – hopefully aiding & abetting avant-garde collectors at-large in their individual quests for fashion’s holy-grails.
Many of our clients don’t even realize we’re a primarily consignment-based operation. As far as I’m concerned, that’s the biggest indicator that we’re doing our job correctly. We place prime importance on presentation, and believe by showcasing consigned goods with equal [or more] integrity as others do new stock – we pay proper respect to the artistry of the work, and the timelessness of its respective aesthetic.
How do you source and select what makes it up for sale on re. porter?
Sourcing takes up the grand majority of my time. as re. porter is by-and-large a consignment based operation, I spend my days corresponding with clients and collectors alike, offering them the opportunity to consign with our store.
That being said, not everything in the store is previously owned. I spend a fair amount of time sourcing items from the world’s various online vintage and second-hand markets – where it’s not rare to find completely new gems-of-old; who never found their destined customer before the boutique was forced to move them along.
In the months leading up to launch, it wasn’t unusual for me to spend twelve [or more] hours a day corresponding with clients, collectors, and boutiques – convincing them to consign with us and calmly reassuring them i wasn’t actually a criminal. Now that we’ve launched it would seem the website does most of that work for me, and i can focus on what products i choose to take on consignment, rather than searching for any to consign at all.
The process of selection itself is fairly straightforward. I’m pretty much my own client, that is to say – my target client-base knows these designers just as well as i do.As in all buying, there’s a bit of logistics involved, but what I do is more akin to curating a gallery; choosing my stock based on its [already proven] success in both the first-sale & after-sales markets, “Hrmmm, should i really take these highly-coveted works of artisanal beauty on for consignment? I mean, I remember them selling out world-wide in about the blink of a bomb, and they RARELY pop-up on the internet and even MORE rarely stay-up…” it seems pretty obvious when explained.
What are your long term plans for re. porter? Is a physical location in the future?
I definitely have some exciting plans for how to integrate re. porter into the world of flesh & bone – but such plans will never involve bricks, mortar, or fixed locations.The adaptability afforded us by being a strictly online operation will allow re. porter [Vancouver] to easily transition into re. porter [Tokyo], you know… as an example. But in the more immediate meantime, look for re. porter to temporarily pop-up in different locations across North America in true guerrilla-style fashion.
You’ll witness the website evolve as well, adding a lot more functionality & control to the [already awesome] home page. We’re hoping this will provide us with the ability to showcase specific pieces & brands – and even help us feature young designers, local or otherwise.
What is inspiring you of late in fashion? Any designers or collections really catching your eye?
This Fall / Winter 2012’s runway collections [both men’s & women’s] were some of the best, & most inspiring shows I’d seen in years. Yohji’s women’s show was gorgeous, everything I’ve always loved about him just emphasized, colored and complemented in a fashion I hadn’t seen for so long. Julius_7’s runway show truly wowed me for the first time ever this season – eschewing their overtly anime-inspired styling for a more wearable aesthetic [more akin to how real people wear the brand] just made this show sing for me. A.F. Vandervorst probably moved me more than anything else this season though, with the styling, clothes, casting & music all making me wonder how the brand’s nearly impossible to find stocked sometimes.
However, I’m more of a fashion collector, rather than consumer, and actually spend most of my time tracking down items from clothing’s past; items I either missed out on because I didn’t have money at the time of release, or simply because they were released before I’d ever even cared for clothes… my most cherished designer of all time is an artisanal Italian designer named Maurizio Altieri. he started the design collective Carpe Diem, and most of the clothes I’m constantly tracking down are Carpe Diem, l’maltieri, m.a+, or label under construction [all ex-carpe diem designers] release.
Honestly though, there’s too many Carpe Diem scions showing up these days, with designers riding their carpe-affiliation coat-tails to undeserved levels of success. That being said, the designer Mariavittoria Sargentini’s label marvielab, is one particular brand I exempt from this derision. her work is some of my most cherished these days – encapsulating every Carpe Diem nuance I miss in a fresh manner all of her own.
On the more fun side of fashion though Takahiro Miyashita’s new shit [the soloist] is something to appreciate and if I’m ever bored i just browse through Junya Watanabe’s catalog of women’s collections for some eye-candy & inspiration.
Otherwise, I’ve always loved Ann, old[er] Raf, and everything Rick – with the latter being the reason for my first forays into this world of fashion. Rick took weird mainstream, and they love him for it – it’s almost too good to be true.
With so many online shopping experiences available now. What do you think the market is missing? What unique perspectives are you bringing to online retail with re. porter?
Honestly, the online shopping world is doing pretty okay. I wouldn’t say there’s much missing but I would want to call a lot of places out for lazy styling, lazy web-design, and lazy customer service. However, online is rarely a boutique’s primary concern as they’re too busy focusing on their walk-in clients.
Personally, I want the online shopping experience to mirror my own esteem for the clothing I’m buying. I’ll refrain from naming names, but i see too many online stores these days whose presentation shows absolutely no respect for the value of the product they’re selling. Stop with the annoying intro screens set to macabre music, stop with the floating images over pixelated backdrops, and stop showing me your stupid model’s blue-steeled or perv-stach’ed expressions – I don’t want to buy your clothes if you think I find that shit appealing.
That being said, I have to give credit where credit is due – and that is to places like LN-CC for their brilliant styling, casting, buying, & presentation; and to Atelier New York for its distinctively artful touch [not to mention their unparalleled customer service and encyclopaedically-brained sales associates].
With re. porter, we aim to offer a uniquely intimate online shopping experience – taking the obsequious levels of service experienced in the world’s finest men’s boutiques, and directly transposing it to the online world. this is why we’ve chosen to employ an enquiry-based purchasing system. We prefer directly communicating every purchase with our clients – as it allows us to develop the same client/clothier relationship that occurs in proper brick ‘n mortar boutiques.
I’m a Shakespearean actor by training, and my favourite Elizabethan theatre critic always said a play was most successful when its form matched its content. That is to say – how a piece is presented is every bit as important as the piece itself. With re. porter, I believe we’ve created an online photographic-playground; one part gallery, every part boutique that not only emphasizes, but relies on the beauty of the stock it houses to create a truly unified luxury shopping experience.
re. porter, in essence, is a project borne purely out of passion for the work it houses – and we hope it shows.
Questions and Introduction by Rocky Li
All Images via re.porter