Future in Saint Laurent, Gucci Mane in Thom Browne
A$AP Rocky in C.E , Drake in Rick Owens
Kanye West in Damir Doma, Lil’B in Undercover & Dirty ass vans
Rap and fashion are increasingly interlinked to the point where it seems every other rap verse namedrops at least 2 designer names. I collaborated with English illustrator Rebel Youth on these sketches of various rappers in various gear from current SS14 and FW14 collections. Time will tell if any of these outfits will come to fruition in the real life but hope you find the idea of Guwop in TB or Lil’B wearing Undercover as amusing as we did.
Select items from the Spring/Summer 2013 Saint Laurent Collection by Hedi Slimane are now avaible for pre-order online. Unfortunately, in my opinion these pieces look uninspired and outdated. I’m not sure who Mr.Slimane had in mind with this selection of items but at least those who are in the market for a pair of ostentatiously branded pair of boat shoes will be happy.
An assortment of confusing design choices are present throughout the line from the band-collar dry denim jacket to the leopard-print trench. The washed denim shirt looks no different then something you could pick up at a fraction of the price at J.Crew or Zara. Perhaps these items will be better if seen in person but from the stock photos they hardly seem luxurious or special at all. The zipper crewnecks and hoodies are nice enough but I doubt they are €500 nice. It’s almost as if Saint Laurent brand is relying soley on the hype of Hedi’s return alone to push massive units. I fear that Saint Laurent has veered too much towards commercial appeal. It really feels to me as if this line were put together by a focus group rather then the gifted former head of Dior Homme.
I’m trying to be patient with Hedi but so far I haven’t been wow’ed by anything he’s done at Saint Laurent. I know he is capable of more and I hope that further seasons develop a more focused and unique aesthetic. For now though I really can’t co-sign this collection as it reminds me of what people hate about high fashion. Namely, the pretension of luxury designer brands who get away with selling mediocre-quality goods at an extreme markup based off the strength of the brand name alone. There’s a lot on the line here for Hedi and the whole fashion world is watching. Only time will tell if he can live up to the legacy of one of the most prestigious houses in fashion.
Please share your opinion of the collection in the comments section or via Twitter.
Images via High Snobiety
Hedi Slimane is introducing a new line under Saint Laurent called “Skinny”. From the lookbook it appears that ‘Skinny’ is a diffusion line of designer basics that are reminiscent the staples that were produced under his reign at Dior Homme. The cuts are definitely, ahem, skinny and while not ground-breaking I’m sure these goods will appeal to a wide fashion audience. There are plenty of Dior Homme collectors out there who are looking to supplement their wardrobes with new basics. No word on pricing as of yet but I am sure it will not be cheap. Personally I’m a pretty disappointed by this sub-line, there doesn’t seem to be alot of originality put into the styling or the clothes themselves. There are plenty of alternatives already if you are just looking for a leopard-print shirt, skinny jeans, or a washed denim jacket. It seems that the main selling point of these clothes sadly, is the cachet of the Saint Laurent label. I am still optimistic that Hedi can give us more than he has so far so I will be sure to keep posting develops with both the mens and womenswear from Saint Laurent Paris.
Hedi has been in spotlight of late having shown his first womenswear collection in Paris to mixed reviews. Most notably he’s been embroiled in a war of words with New York Times Fashion critic Cathy Horn. You can read an overview of the beef between the two parties on The Fader. The Business of Fashion gives the insider scoop on some of the problems that the press have been having with Y S errr Saint Laurent’s PR team HERE. My friend Max has also contributed a great write-up of his own over at Four-Pins, asking the quintessential internet question U MAD?
Model : Gryphon O’Shea
Photos via Fucking Young
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