Prada Collision Technical Fabric Sneakers

Designer sneakers are suffering a bit of an identity crisis as expanding collaborative programs at Nike and Adidas have given designers more creative freedoms with their one-offs than they have ever had before. Prada channels their minimalistic heritage and combines it with 3D elements that give the silhouette a unique futuristic look. The sneaker has … Read more

Yohji Yamamoto FW18 Collection

Yohji’s presence in fashion has spanned decades but remarkably his consistentcy and relevance has remained in-tact. As fashion has embraced a wider fit, his signature designs fit perfectly into the current zeitgeist. The Fall/Winter 2018 collection shown in Paris exemplifies a breadth of looks, often pulling designs from the archives and embedding them with new life and color. Many prints were developed just for this collection that include Artwork, Japanese Kanji and even drawn illustrations of the designer himself. Also noteworthy is the inclusion of indigo and deep red color-blocking throughout the collection. We’re certainly blessed to continue to have Yohji contribute new collections even at the age of 74 and long-time fans of his designers should find plenty here to lust after. Look for pieces to start releasing in stockists like Farfetch in the next few months.

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Takahiro Miyashita The Soloist FW18 Collection

Jun Takahashi and Takahiro Miyashita have long been friends and this year they got the chance to show their collections together earlier today at Pitti Uomo. The two designers agreed to a shared theme for their respective collections; an exploration of order and disorder. They had also consulted each other on the the mutual finale that saw a line of Takahiro’s models in black synthetic face an opposing line of models in white floor length pleated skirts emerge from Takahashi’s side It seemed that both their collections channeled an overall feeling of alienation and rebellion, Miyashita’s was much more focused on subverting traditional elements of men’s fashion.

He went down the list of menswear classics , incorporating things like houndstooth but kept them hidden or obscured by his avant garden nomadic looks. Many of the models wore layers of technical nylon items, decorated with bags and accessories. The runway looks gave the impression of armor, with oversized cloaks. The footwear consisted of tall boots and even traditional Japanese Geta (sandals). It was difficult to tell where one piece ended and another began but the effect was impressive; Miyashita was effective at drawing the audience into his world. In many ways the Soloist has been a brand that is more product than spectacle focused than Miyashita’s past work at Number (N)one, with his Fall/Winter 2018 collection however Miyashita showed that he could achieve both with one collection. Check out the rest of the looks after the jump.

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John Elliot FW16 Collection

John Elliot (formerly John Elliot Co) is best known for men’s basics; the crux of which have been his hoodies, sweatshirts and crewnecks. Styles such as the Villain hoody, Escobar Sweatpants, and Mercer tees have gained a dedicated following and helped propel the brand’s growth to new markets. For Fall/Winter 2016 , the label aims to established a broader scope, bringing in new pieces like a shaggy fleece pullover (which resembles vintage Patagonia), ¬†quilted down pieces and heavier wool and leather outerwear pieces. The show was sequenced and styled by color, going from clinical all-white looks to greys, olives and finally deep burgundy. Time will tell if guys will snap up the more elaborate pieces as quickly as as the basics but look for the items to be available this summer through their official site and stockists.

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Lemaire FW16 Collection

Christophe Lemaire just showed his name ‘Lemaire’ Fall/Winter 2016 collection at Paris Fashion Week. While there has been a trend towards more casual wear (sneakers and streetwear leading the way), Lemaire has held steadfast in it’s pursuit of luxury minimal menswear. In terms of that look, he’s one of the best doing it and it shows in this collection. What Lemaire really nails is fabric and cut. The garments drape perfectly and offer a streamlined fit without seeming too slim or restrictive of movement. Along with Dries Van Noten and Yohji Yamamoto this is one of the labels I consistently look to for inspiration on dressing up.

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Gosha Rubchinskiy FW16 Collection

Gosha Rubchinskiy showed his Fall/Winter 2016 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week. The show was a shift from his olympic themed spring/summer showing. This time around the Russian designer pivoted away from primary colors and the more ostentatious branding towards a more industrial, grungy aesthetic that brings to mind the type of communist era Soviet army¬†surplus. Shirts are tucked in with army belts and layered underneath heavy leathers and shearling coats. Sweatshirts and pants are oversized¬†with sleeves and pantlegs draping like extra appendages. The sneakers are Reebok, and hint at a collaborative model dropping soon. While not a predictable collection, it does it’s job of adding to Gosha’s universe and all it¬†entails. Look for the items to drop online this summer at stockists like End Clothing, Tres Bien and SSENSE.

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SSENSE Color In Motion

If you, like me, wear alot of black in the cold weather months it can seem like a challenge to transition to a more colorful palette come summertime. A new video from SSENSE provides inspiration¬†for colorful dressing through a frentic high-energy video. Shot in an Art Deco cinema in East London, it features looks from … Read more

Raf Simons FW15 Collection

The Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby collection is all over Paris and London streetstyle this year . That collection was both a return to form for Raf and also a reminder of his influence on the menswear industry. Following his appointment at Dior,  his own namesake label seemed to suffer a bit and seemed slightly neglected for a few seasons following.  As a longtime Raf fan I was quite excited by the new direction he had steered the brand into with the Sterling collaboration.

Raf showed his latest Fall/Winter 2015 offerings in Paris. This collection is more muted and subtle than his last two. The designs cut back on being graphic heavy and instead rely on the cut¬†and fabric to make their mark. The color palette fluctuates between earth tones and¬†¬†pops of brighter colors. Overall the collection seemed to miss¬†the mark. There were a few things that stood out to me, the coats were generously long and featured great proportions for the most part. Some individual trousers and turtlenecks also caught my eye as something worth a purchase this year. That being said the collection does feel a bit bland,¬†and the execution of the styling simply didn’t appeal to me. I definitely couldn’t get down with one of the sloppy looks in the collection featuring a knit sleeveless vest layered over a baggy oxford. As with most Raf collections there’s definitely gems in some of the individual pieces (particularly the wool coats) but with Raf you have to set the bar high

See all the looks after the jump

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Rick Owens FW14 Details and Behind the Scenes

Having tracked the evolution of Rick Owens for the better part of a decade it’s always fun to see what he puts out each season. The main theme in his design career has been refinement, not necessarily re-invention. Fall/Winter 2014 continued his slant towards minimalism and it’s cool to see Rick continue to pare down some details while still experimenting more with volume and shape. The three looks from this season stood out to me the most are above in particular the military vest piece. I’ve seen many good takes on similar pieces but Rick definitely was able to give it a luxe feel. I also like the look with the layered black shorts as it’s an obvious homage to the Adidas shorts everyone wore in high school. Although I don’t intend on buying too much Rick in the near future, I do love the idea of wearing and styling Rick as expensive gym clothes/streetwear. Ultimately that’s what draws me to the brand as it’s branding and price-point serve to project one image, but Rick has always been about a confluence of disparate inspirations both high and low.

Also respect to Rick for somehow both designing some hybrid between a nun’s headpiece and a du-rag AND playing a chicago footwork track by RP Boo for the finale.

‚ÄúI think all men want to project a certain amount of authority in the way that they dress. D√©fil√© means parade, a military thing. I was thinking about how a young man reacts to authority, the way he is hard-wired to reject it in order to move forward and create his own authority. I remember rejecting authority and I remember how urgent that was ‚Äď school! Cops! Teachers! Parents! Everything. A lot of what I do is a memory of that reaction. A man who‚Äôs interested in dressing, is interested in expressing himself. And part of that is rejecting standards‚ÄĚ Rick Owens

See plenty of detail shots after the jump

Backstage Photos by Lea Colombo via Dazed

Many close-up detail shots after the jump

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Isaora Spring/Summer 2014 Behind the Scenes

New York City-based Isaora held their first NYFW runway show this past Sunday at The Line Hotel.  Daniel of Medium Concepts Showroom was able to provide Third Looks a behind-the-scenes glimpse.

Designers Marc Daniels and Ricky Henry revealed an edgier fashion-forward aesthetic for the maturing tech-centric line. With their roots firmly grounded in technical sportswear, the duo have confidently refined an aesthetic that appeals to the fashion crowd while remaining accessible and functional.

The garments on display highlighted Isaora’s heavy emphasis on advanced fabrication and performance-ready textiles, with nylon bonded outerwear, laser cut pieces, and waterproof shells. But these more advanced pieces were complimented by easy-wearing cut and sew, which allowed the collection to retain a relaxed feel amidst all the technical wizardry.

The presentation itself was a perfect compliment to the clothing: sharp, dramatic, and moody, with high-key lighting and an emphasis on geometry and line.

All photos and words by Daniel Small

See the rest of the photos after the jump

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