Designers Marc Daniels and Ricky Henry revealed an edgier fashion-forward aesthetic for the maturing tech-centric line. With their roots firmly grounded in technical sportswear, the duo have confidently refined an aesthetic that appeals to the fashion crowd while remaining accessible and functional.
The garments on display highlighted Isaora’s heavy emphasis on advanced fabrication and performance-ready textiles, with nylon bonded outerwear, laser cut pieces, and waterproof shells. But these more advanced pieces were complimented by easy-wearing cut and sew, which allowed the collection to retain a relaxed feel amidst all the technical wizardry.
The presentation itself was a perfect compliment to the clothing: sharp, dramatic, and moody, with high-key lighting and an emphasis on geometry and line.
All photos and words by Daniel Small
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Highland hosted a presentation for their Spring/Summer 2014 collection this past Thursday at the downtown landmark Santo’s Party House. In true Highland fashion, the presentation was an amalgamation of disparate influences and felt more like a college house party (complete with free PBR) than a fashion show. The presentation had the models lifting weights at times underneath a poster of Arnold in his prime.
There’s some new additions to the line everything from denim jackets to knit beanies. The stand pieces for me were the iridescent MA-1, the 3M jacket and the graphic-print sweatpants. The plain jerseys were also a really nice take on something that fashion designers are trying their hardest to play out. The footwear which was provided by converse were painted by Highland to look like Adidas. Many of the looks were styled with a basketball shorts in a variety of designs.
The rest of the night featured a series of musical performances by Lakutis, Rat King and Gobby. The whole thing had a nice hazy 90’s music video feel to it and it was great to see the local support that Highland is getting (not to mention a recent Drake cosign).
In a week that’s often times very corporate, manufactured-feeling and filled with pretension, Highland just threw a good party for their friends and supporters. Be sure to check out my interview with Lizzie and Cramer from Highland in case you missed it the first time around.
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Do you remember smoking weed, drinking beer, eating Doritos and playing N64 in your high school friend’s basement? Highland presented guests of their FW13 collection with an experience that was quite similar to those carefree days of youth. The set was littered with bongs, snacks, a PBR beer pyramid and shag carpeting and admist the chaos were models donning the collection of jackets, sweaters, branded t-shirts and jeans. The interactive presentation was a reflection of the brand’s approach, smartly and subversively using the wasteland of American suburbia as a platform for refined streetwear. While Highland make not be a household name in the US menswear market yet, this presentation exemplified how the brand is quickly building steady buzz in New York.
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At their core, runway shows are about creating a spectacle and Hood by Air certainly achieved that with their Fall/Winer 2013 Runway show ‘Boychild’ at Milk Studios. The brand has existed since 2007 but really blew up in 2012 with a little help from celebrity trendsetters such as Rihanna. An array of looks came marching down the lazer-lit runway, set to a pulsing dystopian soundtrack. They ranged from simple screen printed t-shirts to more elaborate pieces such as a zippered neoprene jacket. What I appreciate most about Hood by Air is that the brand is an honest and natural extension of the lifestyle that designer Shane Oliver and his cohorts have been leading for years. Don’t be suprised to even see the wildest HBA pieces at the next GHE20G0THIK party or in basement clubs and warehouse raves throughout New York. Self proclaimed fashion killa A$AP Rocky made an appearance closing out the show to the applause and cheering of many in the audience. 2013 promises to be an even bigger and better year for Hood by Air.
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Alexander Wang Spring/Summer 2013 Runway Show
These beautiful, sexy and candid NYFW photos are by Balarama Heller . Milk Studios in New
York was home base to many NYFW shows and be sure to keep an eye on the Milk MADE site for more photos from their fashion week contributing photographers.
Via Milk MAde
Patrik Ervell Spring/Summer 2013 Review
By Rocky Li
Patrik Ervell presented his Spring/Summer 2013 collection at Milk Studios last week. The New York based, Swedish born designer took ‘A California Mindset’ when it came to designing this collection. Partially informed by mountaineering brands North Face and Teva, Ervell presented his own futurist vision of techwear sending an army of brightly colored models down the runway against a backdrop of a virtual setting sun. While Ervell usually plays it safe in terms of color palette (staying with muted off-whites, beiges and tans), he chose to branch out with vibrant navys, teals, and oranges for this season. Watching the collection unfold, I was at times reminded of the Undercover Spring/Summer 2010 collection ‘Less but better’. The silhouettes and cuts were what were ‘de rigour’ for the Ervell brand. I appreciate the look that has become Ervell’s signature and I welcome his experimentation this collection in extending the look in new directions.
I do have a few criticism of this runway show. One of the most jarring parts was the order of the presentation. There did not seem to be a clear progression from one look to another and even more confusing the designer sprinkled in womenswear looks throughout the show. This has something I’ve been noticing throughout New York fashion week and I can only think of a few instances where it was pulled off perfectly. I definitely saw the tech-wear edge to this show but I did not notice anything particularly innovative in that regard. If there was practicality and functionality in the garments or their fabrics, the presentation should made those product features clear. I don’t trust many fashion brands to create highly functional garments that serve to protect the wearer through the elements and in this light I think Patrik Ervell may have been channeling Prada in a way he didn’t intend.
Ultimately I do think that this Spring/Summer collection is a step in the right direction for Patrik Ervell. He has always shown promise since his entrance into the fashion world and I have an respect and admiration of his design sensibilities. If he continues to grow his brand smartly and works to expand his ‘look’ in unexpected ways, I can see the menswear brand lasting for many many years to come.
Photos by Rocky Li (via VFILES)
American fashion is often a slave to the overarching ideas of sale-ability and wearability. During a fashion week where many designers are attempting to stay relevant through trend-happy clothing Thom Browne continues to build upon the universe that he has long dreamt of living in. Mr.Browne claims the inspiration for the collection was the work of German painter, choreographer and sculptor Oskar Schlemmer.
The Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013 Presentation held at the Edna Barnes Salomon room of the New York Public Library was the absolute highlight of my New York fashion week. Against a backdrop of funhouse mirrors and giant silver pinwheels Thom spun a creepy, theatrical atmospheric and eye-catching narrative. An undead army of models clad in whale print, sculptural dresses, seahorses in bejeweled appliques, laser-cut out patterns and somber monochrome filled the room in designs that the Adam’s Family would die to own.
As his shows continue to wow fashion show attendees around the world, I believe Thom Browne deserves his due as a true industry visionary. After witnessing his Spring/Summer 2013 work I am so excited to see how Thom Browne can continue to add layers to his trademark prep style.
Thom Browne’s critics may ask the tired question : “Will any of this sell or be worn outside of this show?”. The response of anyone who had the pleasure of seeing this in person should be “Who cares?”
More photos of the collection on VFILES.
Words by Rocky Li
Photography by Rocky Li (via VFILES.)
Alexander Wang’s SS13 had all the markings of a huge NYFW production : top-shelf models, front-row celebrities and a show finale that literally glowed in the dark. Third Looks was on hand to give you a glimpse of the backstage madness.
More photos from the show can be seen on VFILES
Photography by Rocky Li
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