Patrik Ervell Spring/Summer 2013 Review
By Rocky Li
Patrik Ervell presented his Spring/Summer 2013 collection at Milk Studios last week. The New York based, Swedish born designer took ‘A California Mindset’ when it came to designing this collection. Partially informed by mountaineering brands North Face and Teva, Ervell presented his own futurist vision of techwear sending an army of brightly colored models down the runway against a backdrop of a virtual setting sun. While Ervell usually plays it safe in terms of color palette (staying with muted off-whites, beiges and tans), he chose to branch out with vibrant navys, teals, and oranges for this season. Watching the collection unfold, I was at times reminded of the Undercover Spring/Summer 2010 collection ‘Less but better’. The silhouettes and cuts were what were ‘de rigour’ for the Ervell brand. I appreciate the look that has become Ervell’s signature and I welcome his experimentation this collection in extending the look in new directions.
I do have a few criticism of this runway show. One of the most jarring parts was the order of the presentation. There did not seem to be a clear progression from one look to another and even more confusing the designer sprinkled in womenswear looks throughout the show. This has something I’ve been noticing throughout New York fashion week and I can only think of a few instances where it was pulled off perfectly. I definitely saw the tech-wear edge to this show but I did not notice anything particularly innovative in that regard. If there was practicality and functionality in the garments or their fabrics, the presentation should made those product features clear. I don’t trust many fashion brands to create highly functional garments that serve to protect the wearer through the elements and in this light I think Patrik Ervell may have been channeling Prada in a way he didn’t intend.
Ultimately I do think that this Spring/Summer collection is a step in the right direction for Patrik Ervell. He has always shown promise since his entrance into the fashion world and I have an respect and admiration of his design sensibilities. If he continues to grow his brand smartly and works to expand his ‘look’ in unexpected ways, I can see the menswear brand lasting for many many years to come.
Photos by Rocky Li (via VFILES)