Yohji’s presence in fashion has spanned decades but remarkably his consistentcy and relevance has remained in-tact. As fashion has embraced a wider fit, his signature designs fit perfectly into the current zeitgeist. The Fall/Winter 2018 collection shown in Paris exemplifies a breadth of looks, often pulling designs from the archives and embedding them with new life and color. Many prints were developed just for this collection that include Artwork, Japanese Kanji and even drawn illustrations of the designer himself. Also noteworthy is the inclusion of indigo and deep red color-blocking throughout the collection. We’re certainly blessed to continue to have Yohji contribute new collections even at the age of 74 and long-time fans of his designers should find plenty here to lust after. Look for pieces to start releasing in stockists like Farfetch in the next few months.
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Boris Bidjan Saberi
Boris compliments this well-cut suit with a boots, a t-shirt and a rain-shell, adding a casual feel to an otherwise tailored look. The entire show revealed maturity and growth from the German designer and it ranks as one of his best to date.
Juun was one of the designers championing a fuller cut this season and he executed it in style. The highlight of the show were pieces which were variants on the MA-1 design. Presented here with creative layer, an oversized turteneck and Duke Nukem army cut Juun shows he’s in strong form in 2013.
A slightly slouchy silhouette mixed with a all grey tonal fit make this outfit worth considering for Fall. Damir is able to pull off a series of romantic AND wearable looks this collection. For FW13 he has refined his aeshetic and make it a little bit more accessible to men this season without losing the essence of his design style.
Rick Owens has been a major influence in men’s fashion over the past 10 year and in that time created his own fashion universe. Here Rick presents a cleaned up minimal take on the goth-glam look that’s become his trademark. The belted samurai jacket returns with cleaner lines underneath his signiture leather pattern. Th personal highlight for me on this fit is the paneled leather pants but the whole thing just looks incredibly badass. It’s always a pleasure to see how Rick continues to evolve as a designer without every straying too far from his roots.
Dries Van Noten
Dries brings a more somber presentation for this fall/winter collection with a palette of earth tones and paisley prints. The quilted bomber here is something Dries executes so well. The minimal collar, slim but still puffy shape and patterned trousers put this look on my list.
Saint Laurent Paris Men’s
One of the most anticipated shows in Paris, Hedi sets out to prove that rock isn’t quite dead. I gave Hedi a hard time with his debut womenswear collection but I’m pretty pleased with his debut men’s showing. This look from the show is deceptively simple but it’s execution is spot-on for what Hedi wants to achieve. While many designers try to incorporate rock influences, this just looks the part effortlessly. The way it should always be in rock’n’roll.
The title of this collection is ‘Chinpira’ meaning ‘Punk’ celebrates a movement largely characterized by a concern for individual freedom and anti-establishment views. This stood out as one of my favorite collections all week as it struck a delicate balance between intricately crafted luxurious garments and subcultural styling. The above look has a yakuza feel and the glasses definitely Chow Yun Fat from John Woo’s The Killer in the best way possible.
Yohji Yamamoto is a master and he has once again put together a collection that any man would be lucky to have in their wardrobes. What I loved about this particular look was the cut of the camel overcoat and the little details fro the shape of the boots to the look of the pull over-hat. The leopard print hat and glued on mustaches of the models add a welcome dose of quirkiness and humor to an otherwise serious affair.
Since his moto collection Junya hasn’t put a ton of black in his collections but this mostly-black look is Junya at his best. The washed out denim chore coat hung on the shoulders with the patchwork blazer underneath and the not too baggy/not too slim cropped trousers add up to a brilliant outfit.
Kim Jones has really revitalized Louis Vuitton menswear and made the brand relevant again to fashionable guys worldwide. With looks like this, it’s easy to see why. The tonal plaid suit layered underneath the show-stopping shearling parka just looks incredible. The styling with the toque and t-shirt add just enough chav to keep these luxurious clothes from being only the domain of rich white men. I imagine this is how Eastern Promises would have looked with a larger wardrobe budget.
In the past two years I have transitioned from only buying mostly neutrals to wearing many more colors on a daily basis. Color and textures are such essential aspects of dressing and I’ve come to appreciate well-paired colors in day to day life. Taking a color theory class in my studies really helped me improve my understanding of color and the relationships between different color groups. I highly recommend you take a color theory class if you get the chance as it has many unforeseen applications past just painting or art.
This is the first in a series Color Theory that is based around the study of color in clothing and beyond. I’ll be sharing imagery and color palettes I find visually inspiring. I usually don’t find Hermès ready-to-wear collections particularly exciting but these backstage photos by Schohaja really stood out to me. The color palette is simultaneously nostalgic and modern, and the film grain compliments the purples, mustards, and burnt oranges here.
Comment or share this feature if you like the concept and I will be sure to bring you more of these posts.
Via T Magazine
“Sukezane’s Diary in Tokyo Maze”
Stylist Tomoki Sukezane p
Photography by Junji Hata.
Images : Editorial SOTOKOTO Feburary 2010 Issue
Large elaborate prints that blend art with clothing continue to be marched down the runways of Milan, New York and Paris. One collaboration that was ahead of the curve in this regard was between painter/printmaker Leonard Tsuguoharu Foujita and Jil Sander for the Raf Simons designed Spring/Summer 2010 season. These face prints sold quickly and now are increasingly difficult to come by on auction sites and message boards, be sure to hang on tight if you own pieces from this capsule colleciton.
Leonard Tsuguoharu Foujita Self Portrait
Raf Simons has come a long way. I still find it hard to believe at times that he’s gone from being a relatively unknown menswear designer to the Creative Director at Christian Dior. While Mr. Simons routinely makes fashion headlines through his work he has stayed out of the spotlight for the most part. In this video interview on the Dior youtube channel Raf speaks on creating his first Haute Couture womenswear collection.
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