Boris Bidjan Saberi
Boris compliments this well-cut suit with a boots, a t-shirt and a rain-shell, adding a casual feel to an otherwise tailored look. The entire show revealed maturity and growth from the German designer and it ranks as one of his best to date.
Juun was one of the designers championing a fuller cut this season and he executed it in style. The highlight of the show were pieces which were variants on the MA-1 design. Presented here with creative layer, an oversized turteneck and Duke Nukem army cut Juun shows he’s in strong form in 2013.
A slightly slouchy silhouette mixed with a all grey tonal fit make this outfit worth considering for Fall. Damir is able to pull off a series of romantic AND wearable looks this collection. For FW13 he has refined his aeshetic and make it a little bit more accessible to men this season without losing the essence of his design style.
Rick Owens has been a major influence in men’s fashion over the past 10 year and in that time created his own fashion universe. Here Rick presents a cleaned up minimal take on the goth-glam look that’s become his trademark. The belted samurai jacket returns with cleaner lines underneath his signiture leather pattern. Th personal highlight for me on this fit is the paneled leather pants but the whole thing just looks incredibly badass. It’s always a pleasure to see how Rick continues to evolve as a designer without every straying too far from his roots.
Dries Van Noten
Dries brings a more somber presentation for this fall/winter collection with a palette of earth tones and paisley prints. The quilted bomber here is something Dries executes so well. The minimal collar, slim but still puffy shape and patterned trousers put this look on my list.
Saint Laurent Paris Men’s
One of the most anticipated shows in Paris, Hedi sets out to prove that rock isn’t quite dead. I gave Hedi a hard time with his debut womenswear collection but I’m pretty pleased with his debut men’s showing. This look from the show is deceptively simple but it’s execution is spot-on for what Hedi wants to achieve. While many designers try to incorporate rock influences, this just looks the part effortlessly. The way it should always be in rock’n’roll.
The title of this collection is ‘Chinpira’ meaning ‘Punk’ celebrates a movement largely characterized by a concern for individual freedom and anti-establishment views. This stood out as one of my favorite collections all week as it struck a delicate balance between intricately crafted luxurious garments and subcultural styling. The above look has a yakuza feel and the glasses definitely Chow Yun Fat from John Woo’s The Killer in the best way possible.
Yohji Yamamoto is a master and he has once again put together a collection that any man would be lucky to have in their wardrobes. What I loved about this particular look was the cut of the camel overcoat and the little details fro the shape of the boots to the look of the pull over-hat. The leopard print hat and glued on mustaches of the models add a welcome dose of quirkiness and humor to an otherwise serious affair.
Since his moto collection Junya hasn’t put a ton of black in his collections but this mostly-black look is Junya at his best. The washed out denim chore coat hung on the shoulders with the patchwork blazer underneath and the not too baggy/not too slim cropped trousers add up to a brilliant outfit.
Kim Jones has really revitalized Louis Vuitton menswear and made the brand relevant again to fashionable guys worldwide. With looks like this, it’s easy to see why. The tonal plaid suit layered underneath the show-stopping shearling parka just looks incredible. The styling with the toque and t-shirt add just enough chav to keep these luxurious clothes from being only the domain of rich white men. I imagine this is how Eastern Promises would have looked with a larger wardrobe budget.
I’ve seen Jeremy post his fits in the past in superfuture “What are you wearing today” threads and have appreciated the evolution of his style. When I heard through a mutual friend that he was going to be in New York, I linked up with him to speak a bit about the fashion in Australia and also shoot a this style profile.
Currently Jeremy manages the Sydney outpost of one of the best shops in Australia Assin. They have two locations (one in Sydney and one in Melbourne) and carry top designer labels such as Undercover, Damir Doma, Miharayasuhiro, Ann Demeulemeester. He definitely exemplifies the type of brand mixing and experimentation that I personally recommend to guy’s looking to improve their personal style.
Describe your personal aesthetic and how your style evolved to it’s current point.
I don’t really categorise the way I dress so I guess you could say it’s quite eclectic. I lead a pretty casual lifestyle so I focus on being comfortable. I don’t like to stand out too much but I do like outfits that are unexpected so I mix and match labels, streetwear with designer pieces and try to create simple but interesting silhouettes and shapes. It’s evolved quite slowly, I really was just a jeans and t-shirt guy but started falling in love with some designers and their work and would pick up pieces that really spoke to me. Not always did they tie in with what I had in my wardrobe already so I would seek out complimentary pieces and eventually it all just came together.
New Era Fitted Cap
Damir Doma Bomber
Rick Owens DRKSHDW Hoody
New Balance Sneakers
How has managing a shop and seeing new items come in constantly changed the way you shop for yourself?
At the moment I tend to focus on shopping for statement pieces or something thats really unique. I’m at a point where I’ve got the classics and basics as the foundation of my wardrobe so any amazing shapes and fabrics really draw me in. Working where I do I see incredible pieces everyday so I tend to fall in love easily – my list is huge.
You seem to be quite confident in mixing and matching different brands. What advice do you have for other guys looking to do the same?
I think the best direction is not to stray too far from your comfort zone or jump on trends too much. Find pieces you have a connection with and just work around them. It’s more about considering your lifestyle and overall silhouette then just putting a signature high fashion piece with what you already wear. You see guys with a pretty conservative look, raw denim and button up shirts, but they will throw Rick hi-tops in the mix and everything looks off. If you feel uncomfortable more then likely it’s going to look that way. Get out in the stores and give everything a try. Shopping online is a great way to find new things but nothing beats handling a garment and trying it on – you instantly know if it works for you or not.
Damir Doma Silent T-Shirt
Ann Demeulemeester Sweater
Ann Ann Sneakers
What are some of your style inspirations?
To be honest I think I am more inspired by the garments themselves and the hard work the designers put into them but I do draw a lot of inspiration from the Japanese. Japanese street fashion magazines like Tune show some incredible outfits – designer labels, vintage and everything in between. You see some wacky stuff but somehow it looks totally natural on these guys. Even Vogue Homme Japan, puts together some zany stuff. Then it’s about pulling out the practical from the sometimes theatrical and doing your own thing.
More questions and images after the jump
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