Currently viewing the tag: "Dries Van Noten"

One of the things that came up when I interviewed Tay for this style profile is how important comfort and attitude is to personal style. Tay owns some awesome designer pieces but what makes his style unique is how he confidently mixes pieces in an unconventional manner and makes them his own . Tay’s personal style was a result of his upbringing  in Hawaii/LA and also his time spent living in Tokyo.

You may have seen Tay on many a streetstyle blog before in the past and after meeting him I can see why; Tay isn’t afraid to experiment and try new things with his style.  I’m happy to share with you some of his favorite summer looks and also his unique perspectives on style as an individual who’s worked in a variety of roles in the New York fashion industry.

See the feature after the jump

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Dries Van Noten comes correct with another extremely strong season. As one of the few designers who constantly threads new territory with each men’s collection while still maintaining the DNA of his aesthetic  his collections are ones I always look forward to seeing. While brands have started an arms race of sorts, ODing on bigger, brighter, and more elaborate prints, Dries shows his mastery here , succeeding where many have failed. Models wore an array of florals taken from different periods throughout history.

The details are carefully thought out and the fit of the tailored pieces impeccable as to be expected from one of the Antwerp six. Everything from the size of the collars on the shirts, to the eyewear choices, to the gold-foiled background of the runway match the tone of the show perfectly. While his aesthetic may not be my own, Dries is an aspirational brand for me. I can always imagine myself in it and I hope I can acquire some pieces from this collection. I applaud Dries for avoiding the noise in the fashion industry and humbly steadfastly containing to deliver quality collection after quality collection at an incredibly fair price-point for the men’s fashion market.

More images after the jump 

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Boris Bidjan Saberi 

Boris compliments this well-cut suit with a boots, a t-shirt and a rain-shell, adding a casual feel to an otherwise tailored look. The entire show revealed maturity and growth from the German designer and it ranks as one of his best to date.

Juun J

Juun was one of the designers championing a fuller cut this season and he executed it in style. The highlight of the show were pieces which were variants on the MA-1 design.  Presented here with creative layer, an oversized turteneck and Duke Nukem army cut Juun shows he’s in strong form in 2013.

Damir Doma

A slightly slouchy silhouette mixed with a all grey tonal fit make this outfit worth considering for Fall. Damir is able to pull off a series of romantic AND wearable looks this collection. For FW13 he has refined his aeshetic and make it a little bit more accessible to men this season without losing the essence of his design style.

Rick Owens

Rick Owens has been a major influence in men’s fashion over the past 10 year and in that time created his own fashion universe.  Here Rick presents a cleaned up minimal take on the goth-glam look that’s become his trademark. The belted samurai jacket returns with cleaner lines underneath his signiture leather pattern. Th personal highlight for me on this fit is the paneled leather pants but the whole thing just looks incredibly badass. It’s always a pleasure to see how Rick continues to evolve as a designer without every straying too far from his roots.

Dries Van Noten

Dries brings a more somber presentation for this fall/winter collection with a palette of earth tones and paisley prints. The quilted bomber here is something Dries executes so well. The minimal collar, slim but still puffy shape and patterned trousers put this look on my list.

Saint Laurent Paris Men’s

One of the most anticipated shows in Paris, Hedi sets out to prove that rock isn’t quite dead. I gave Hedi a hard time with his debut womenswear collection but I’m pretty pleased with his debut men’s showing. This look from the show is deceptively simple but it’s execution is spot-on for what Hedi wants to achieve. While many designers try to incorporate rock influences, this just looks the part effortlessly. The way it should always be in rock’n’roll.

Miharayasuhiro

The title of this collection is ‘Chinpira’ meaning ‘Punk’ celebrates a movement largely characterized by a concern for individual freedom and anti-establishment views. This stood out as one of my favorite collections all week as it struck a delicate balance between intricately crafted luxurious garments and subcultural styling. The above look has a yakuza feel and the glasses definitely Chow Yun Fat from John Woo’s The Killer in the best way possible.

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto is a master and he has once again put together a collection that any man would be lucky to have in their wardrobes. What I loved about this particular look was the cut of the camel overcoat and the little details fro the shape of the boots to  the look of the pull over-hat. The leopard print hat and glued on mustaches of the models add a welcome dose of quirkiness and humor to an otherwise serious affair.

Junya Watanabe

Since his moto collection Junya hasn’t put a ton of black in his collections but this mostly-black look is Junya at his best. The washed out denim chore coat hung on the shoulders with the patchwork blazer underneath and the not too baggy/not too slim cropped trousers add up to a brilliant outfit.

Louis Vuitton

Kim Jones has really revitalized Louis Vuitton menswear and made the brand relevant again to fashionable guys worldwide. With looks like this, it’s easy to see why. The tonal plaid suit layered underneath the show-stopping shearling parka just looks incredible. The styling with the toque and t-shirt add just enough chav to keep these luxurious clothes from being only the domain of rich white men. I imagine this is how Eastern Promises would have looked with a larger wardrobe budget.

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IT GIRL TOKYO: Caca Co

Third Looks is going international with our latest IT GIRL feature. I’m proud to introduce Caca Co from Tokyo. It is a dream for many women to work in the fashion industry and one that Caca is pursuing to the fullest in Asia. A special thank you goes out to Rajiv Sawhney for producing this feature and making it look fantastic. He will be contributing content from the Japanese fashion scene and documenting his personal journey in the creation of his own namesake label, Sawhney. -Rocky

Words by Rajiv Sawhney

As a budding menswear designer, I had the opportunity to meet Caca, a half-Japanese/half-Chinese fashion student and model through a personal connection several months ago. We quickly became friends given our mutual interests. What struck me most about Caca, aside from her cute looks, was her maturity at a still relatively young age and her deep knowledge and appreciation for the Tokyo scene. Naturally, when I bounced ideas with Rocky about a potential IT GIRL TOKYO edition, Caca immediately came to mind as the first candidate. With the help of fellow friend and photographer, Daisuke Ito, we took to the streets of Daikanyama to bring you the first IT GIRL TOKYO.

Firstly, can you give a quick introduction about yourself?

My name is Caca. I was born in Xian, China and grew up in Tsingtao. My first time visiting Japan was during my sophomore year of high school. I also spent time in Fukuoka and Kyoto for high school and undergraduate college. Currently I’m a graduate student at Bunka Fashion College (http://www.bunka-fc.ac.jp) studying fashion management. To enrich my life and social experience I’m also a part-time model and love to party, enjoying the energy of fashion through Tokyo’s nightlife.

What made you want to come to Japan to study? Did you always want to study fashion?

I wanted to come to Japan for a very simple reason. Since I was a child, I loved Japanese animation and wanted to become an anime artist. However, after studying animation for two years at Kyoto Seika University (http://www.kyoto-seika.ac.jp), I realized that it would be difficult to transmit my points of view and concepts to audiences unless I became an animation director. Meanwhile, like other young girls, I started to take more interest in my make up and styling and gradually became more interested in fashion. Ultimately fashion became my true calling and I quit animation school to study at Bunka. Even though my friends were surprised by my decision, they continue to support what I’m doing. I also want to thank my father for forgiving my willfulness and for continuing to support me.

LOOK 1
Outer: Men’s Number (N)ine black destroyed leather napoleon riders jacket
Top: Loveless (http://www.loveless-shop.jp)
Pants: MNG Collection
Shoes: Christian Louboutin
Sunglasses: Gucci
Hat: Loveless (http://www.loveless-shop.jp)

You are now finishing up your final year at Bunka Fashion College. How has the experience been?

Every day I’m exposed to new things and the curriculum is very meticulous and professional. Students can elect to study from a wide variety of majors including design, styling, etc. I chose management as my major. Unlike other majors, we have the opportunity to hold shows, visit shops to do field surveys, and go on the streets to take photographs. The most interesting aspect of my studies has been the analysis of seasonal trends and the emphasis on the brand creation process. My dream is to start my own brand.

You also recently interned at Mark Styler, a major Japanese women’s wear company. Can you describe the experience?

Mark Styler (http://mark-styler.co.jp) is the parent company of my favorite Japanese fashion brand, EMODA (http://www.emoda-japan.com). Through an introduction from my professor, I was honored to receive a month long internship program at the Mark Styler head office to help with their 2012 Autumn/Winter show. Through this internship, I was able to gain a deeper understanding of the industry, particularly the unglamorous side of the business. In order to execute a perfect fashion show, every department was extremely busy. I worked in the media department and learned it’s not enough to have a good designer or pattern maker, but also an excellent media department to successfully market a brands image. Frankly speaking, very little differentiates fashionable Japanese brands these days. Therefore, how the media/publicity department markets a brand’s image has become increasingly important. After the fashion show was successfully completed, I realized that all the hard work was worth it. It was a very memorable experience and a great learning opportunity.

LOOK 2
Outer: Men’s Dries Van Noten camel wool double breasted coat
Top: Men’s Sawhney navy lace and velvet button-down dress shirt
Skirt: The Dayz Tokyo (http://www.thedayztokyo.com)
Shoes: BeLLE (http://www.belle-co.jp)

What are your thoughts on Tokyo fashion culture? What are the differences you see compared with China?

In Tokyo, each area has its own characteristic style. For example, in ladies fashion there is Shibuya 109 style (http://www.shibuya109.jp), Harajuku style, Aoyama/Omotesando luxury style, Ebisu/Daikanyama pretty style, etc. In addition, each style has been shaped by the area’s history and culture. China has witnessed rapid growth recently but for the older generation unique characteristics in Chinese fashion culture did not exist. Rather, fashion was described more broadly as Korean fashion, Japanese fashion, European fashion, etc. Compared to China, Tokyo fashion has much more individuality and originality, which I think is amazing. That said, I think the Japanese are losing to the current generation of Chinese in terms of foreign intelligence gathering and global fashion interest.

What about menswear? What do you find attractive or interesting about modern Tokyo menswear?

I think women are constantly unfaithful in their loyalty with brands. But for men, once they fall in love with a brand, they can be a loyal customer for a very long time. As a result while women’s wear emphasizes design and styling, menswear puts more importance on quality material used and quality of construction. In a private or work setting, women look at a man’s sense of taste rather than his trendiness. A man that wears well made clothing or shoes gives a woman a sense of security which is a plus. I also think there is a sense of charm. I feel that Tokyo men put a lot of emphasis on styling and coordination. Tokyo men take advantage of accessories, hats, etc to show their style.

LOOK 3

Outer: Men’s Mihara Yasuhiro rabbit & goat fur down vest
Parka: Design Works
One-Piece: Zara
Shoes: Christian Louboutin
Sunglasses: Gucci

You received a job offer to work for Mark Styler after graduation. What are your thoughts about the future?

That’s correct. I received a job offer in Mark Styler’s global operations department, but recently I’ve been considering the business potentials in China and felt that working in Japan would deter me from my dream, so this month I declined the offer. After graduation, I plan to return back to China and I’m thinking of starting my own brand. At any rate, I think it’s necessary for me to understand the local Chinese market and develop the necessary personal connections.

Special thanks to Daisuke Ito of Trival Inc. for taking time out of his busy schedule to help with the shoot and more importantly Caca for modeling the men’s outerwear during this frigid Tokyo winter. Best of luck in your future endeavors!

Styling: Rajiv Sawhney designer of Sawhney (http://www.sawhney.jp)
Model: Caca Co (http://ameblo.jp/cocaca)
Photographer: Daisuke Ito of Trival Inc. (http://www.dai-ito.com)

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My objective with the Style Profiles here on Third Looks is to provide visitors a digital glimpse into how real people dress. I take pride in the fact that each person I profile has vastly different tastes and wardrobes. Everytime I run into JonCarlo I notice that he is always in a new fresh look.

I met JonCarlo through my friend Scott shortly about two years ago. Since then I’ve come to discover that he is someone who is not only knowlegable about fashion , but spends the time and money to collect the pieces he loves. Visting his East Village apartment I was quite impressed by the large wardrobe he had put together with a full assortment of eyewear, coats, shirts, trousers, and jackets. I respect that JonCarlo bravely buys pieces that catch his eye and finds ways to work them into his seasonal outfits. He has a great sensibility on what pieces are worth buying and an ability to intuitively put it all together. Keep in mind that this style profile is only a small part of the sizable personal mensewar archive that JonCarlo has put together over the last ten years.

Look 1
New Era Yankee Fitted Cap
Oliver Peoples Sunglasses
Club Monaco Cashmere Thermal Sweats
Raf Simons FW09 Coat
Dries Van Noten double layer button up shirt
Balenciaga Shoes
Slow & Steady Wins the Race 4-sided bag

Look 2
Albertus Swanepoel hat (navy)
Oliver Peoples Sunglasses
Dries Van Noten Military Jacket
Won Hundred Crewneck T-Shirt
3.1 Philip Lim Elastic Waist Trousers
Converse Chuck Taylor Sneakers

Look 3

New Era Oakland A’s Fitted Cap
Oliver Peoples Sunglasses
Philip Lim 3.1 Blouson Jacket
Shaun Samson shirt
Giuliano Fujiwara Shorts
Comme des Garcon x Heschung Shoes

Look 4

Albertus Swanepoel (Black)
Oliver Peoples Sunglasses
N.Hoolywood F/W 10 Military Trench Coat
Maison Martin Margiela Coat Scarf
J.Sabatino Striped Mohair Sweater
Paul Smith High Waist Banded Trousers
Pierre Hardy backpack

How did your interest in fashion develop?

It developed at a really early age. I spent alot of time looking at magazines like Sassy, Town & Country, YM and Details. That’s when I discovered designers like Claude Montana, Byron Lars, Mugler & Todd Oldham. I remember waking up every Saturday morning to watch CNN Style w/ Elsa Klensch & being given an early education on the Antwerp six, Yasmeen Ghauri and Orlando Pita. When I was old enough to get my license, I started going to Little Tokyo and buying magazines then heading to vintage & thrift stores to re-create looks that inspired me. I always loved dressing up as a form of self-expression.

I was definitely that kid in school where you would be like WTF?!? The other kids around me were interested in group sports, and I was never good at that. What was natural to me was dancing & dressing up for school. I’m not going to lie, 90’s hip hop and R&B had a huge influence on my style.

What was the connection with music and style?

I was a huge fan of groups like New Edition, Jodeci and Troop and I thought they had an amazing sense of style. There was a soul in the way they dressed and the music they made and it really appealed to me. I remember saving up minimum wage so I can buy an outfit that made me look like Marcus Graham in Boomerang and then show up to a dance doing the full routine to House Party. There was a lot pleats, rayon, silks, turtlenecks and chains in my day to day.

How do you shop?

I shop based on silhouette, construction and texture. I feel like I’ve been buying a lot of oversized and fuller cuts in the last 2 years, pants & outerwear wise. I’ve also picked up a lot of raw silk and rayon which have a lot of movement and that drape real well. I’m all about a relaxed fit. I want it to feel like I’m wearing the true definition on lounge wear; pajamas.

What do you want to see more of in menswear.

Risk. Instead of designing for the mass market or whats marketable, I want them to design based upon their initial inspiraitons. The inspiration and passion they’ve had since the initial stages of them wanting to design. I want more designers to essentially embrace that they ARE designers and for them to create something from their own personal aesthetic and points of reference.

What do you wish you could wear? Are there looks you appreciate but don’t buy for yourself?

I wish I could do full-on Damir Doma looks. I’ve always wanted to pull off the type of looks by Damir or Siki Im because there’s a romance to what they do aesthetically and it isn’t so severe. For me and knowing my personal style I could never do that look head to toe. I really appreciate it but I know my limitations. I would REALLY love to wear voluminous robes made of linen & copious amounts of draping and look like a citizen of Tatooine but I live on Earth.

What are designers are you excited about every season?

Dries Van Noten, Shaun Samson, N.Hoolywood, Christophe Lemaire, Umit Benan, 3.1 Philip Lim, and I’ve been loving Paul Smith mainline lately.

JonCarlo Domingo currently works as the East Coast Brand Ambassador for Oliver Peoples and you might see him on his frequent travels throughout the region.

Photography by Rocky Li

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This Dries Van Noten hooded jacket from the the Spring/Summer 2012 collection will keep you dry in style. The conservative cut and the subtle maroon, black and navy striping mean that the piece can be dressed up or down. Some of the finer details include metal riri zips, zippered pockets, and drawstrings to adjust fit.

You can find this and other Dries pieces on The Corner.

Photos by Rocky Li

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I have always been one to appreciate a beautifully designed print. One of the masters of color and print is Dries Van Noten. In this dreamy editorial dresses, tops and skirts from the Belgian designer’s Spring/Summer collection are captured against washed-out pastel backdrops.

See the entire editorial on Honeyee.

photography: Ariko Inaoka
styling: Yuta Kaji
hair: Kazuya Matsumoto(FEMME)
make-up: Masayo Tsuda
model: YiRan

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