Joey wears Gucci hat, Versace sports tee, Polo Black Label jeans, silver Jordan 1s, Kenzo iPhone case
Bradley wears Louis Vuitton Beanie, Bradley Garret Leigh Sunglasses and aNYthing T-shirt
Many of us who grew up in the 90s look to the years just before 9/11 with a certain reverence. There was a feeling of naivety growing up in that seemingly utopic time, a feeling of youthful confidence expressed through personal style. Most of us wore variations of the same gear: backpacks, jerseys, hoodies, t-shirts and jeans. The differences in design were subtle from piece to piece, but it was the brand names (and their associations) that set items apart. Looking back at how we dressed through that period, there is certainly an element of disgust and regret, but we cannot deny that underlying layer of nostalgia, that feeling we had rocking the gear the first time around.
We’d mix mall labels with sneakers and covet luxury items that were unattainable status symbols. Brands were more than a representation of taste or quality, they could provide a sense of belonging; entrance into a cooler world. This is an emotion that new labels unabashedly evoke in 2013. Consider this editorial an ode to unsubtle branding and the powerful impact it continues to have on fashion.
Rhamier wear Crooks & Castles Fitted & Supreme L/S T-Shirt
“I was going through a mallrat-eurotrash-pinoy-guido phase in 2001, 16-17 years old wearing all sorts of goofy logo-heavy shit meanwhile tapering my eyebrows, lining up my non-existent sideburns, spiking my hair, etc. Strangely, I was voted best dressed junior year of high school in Berlin…? Of all the prodigies at the time, Aaliyah sticks out most in my mind. In particular, Red Album Aaliyah in the We Need A Resolution video dancing on a virtual stage, wearing a loud silver D&G monogram belt—a belt I subsequently became obsessed with. When I moved to New York in 2002 and finally had access to ebay, I went HAM, scoring a knockoff DG belt which I proudly wore with a pair of real D&G bleached- washed elastic jeans. Same year I bought some Burberry fabric to sew on my AF1s. Over a decade later, Rocky and I shot this with friends in celebration of my 28th birthday.
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Kim Jones may have initially seemed like a strange fit at Louis Vuitton but he’s definitely hit his stride at the world’s most famous luxury brand. I was a big fan of his fresh take on FW13 , and he continues to inject newness and youth into this spring/summer collection. This time Kim Jones set his sights on America, literally hitting the road from coast to coast to get inspiration from this collection (going from New Orleans to Las Vegas with plenty of spots in-between). Jones showed a runway collection where the mythology of the American road trip is merged with the brand history of Louis Vuitton. While Louis Vuitton isn’t really a brand I look to for my own wardrobe I can’t deny that there’s something special about what Mr.Jones is doing for the historic French luxury house. This collection is in the vein of what Ralph Lauren may have done in the mid 90s updated for the way men want to dress now.
If you ever wanted to see the LV monogram and riffs on everything from plaid to west-coast paisley prints in one collection; look no further than this. This is the summer road trip clothing for the gentleman who’s wealthy enough to fly private.
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Boris Bidjan Saberi
Boris compliments this well-cut suit with a boots, a t-shirt and a rain-shell, adding a casual feel to an otherwise tailored look. The entire show revealed maturity and growth from the German designer and it ranks as one of his best to date.
Juun was one of the designers championing a fuller cut this season and he executed it in style. The highlight of the show were pieces which were variants on the MA-1 design. Presented here with creative layer, an oversized turteneck and Duke Nukem army cut Juun shows he’s in strong form in 2013.
A slightly slouchy silhouette mixed with a all grey tonal fit make this outfit worth considering for Fall. Damir is able to pull off a series of romantic AND wearable looks this collection. For FW13 he has refined his aeshetic and make it a little bit more accessible to men this season without losing the essence of his design style.
Rick Owens has been a major influence in men’s fashion over the past 10 year and in that time created his own fashion universe. Here Rick presents a cleaned up minimal take on the goth-glam look that’s become his trademark. The belted samurai jacket returns with cleaner lines underneath his signiture leather pattern. Th personal highlight for me on this fit is the paneled leather pants but the whole thing just looks incredibly badass. It’s always a pleasure to see how Rick continues to evolve as a designer without every straying too far from his roots.
Dries Van Noten
Dries brings a more somber presentation for this fall/winter collection with a palette of earth tones and paisley prints. The quilted bomber here is something Dries executes so well. The minimal collar, slim but still puffy shape and patterned trousers put this look on my list.
Saint Laurent Paris Men’s
One of the most anticipated shows in Paris, Hedi sets out to prove that rock isn’t quite dead. I gave Hedi a hard time with his debut womenswear collection but I’m pretty pleased with his debut men’s showing. This look from the show is deceptively simple but it’s execution is spot-on for what Hedi wants to achieve. While many designers try to incorporate rock influences, this just looks the part effortlessly. The way it should always be in rock’n’roll.
The title of this collection is ‘Chinpira’ meaning ‘Punk’ celebrates a movement largely characterized by a concern for individual freedom and anti-establishment views. This stood out as one of my favorite collections all week as it struck a delicate balance between intricately crafted luxurious garments and subcultural styling. The above look has a yakuza feel and the glasses definitely Chow Yun Fat from John Woo’s The Killer in the best way possible.
Yohji Yamamoto is a master and he has once again put together a collection that any man would be lucky to have in their wardrobes. What I loved about this particular look was the cut of the camel overcoat and the little details fro the shape of the boots to the look of the pull over-hat. The leopard print hat and glued on mustaches of the models add a welcome dose of quirkiness and humor to an otherwise serious affair.
Since his moto collection Junya hasn’t put a ton of black in his collections but this mostly-black look is Junya at his best. The washed out denim chore coat hung on the shoulders with the patchwork blazer underneath and the not too baggy/not too slim cropped trousers add up to a brilliant outfit.
Kim Jones has really revitalized Louis Vuitton menswear and made the brand relevant again to fashionable guys worldwide. With looks like this, it’s easy to see why. The tonal plaid suit layered underneath the show-stopping shearling parka just looks incredible. The styling with the toque and t-shirt add just enough chav to keep these luxurious clothes from being only the domain of rich white men. I imagine this is how Eastern Promises would have looked with a larger wardrobe budget.
UK-based Used Magazine brings this editorial feturing the Louis Vuitton resort collection. The editorial is a return to Kim Joe’s sportswear roots. It’s nice to see Reebok classics used as thats a sneaker that is personally nostalgic for me. Since Kim Jones has taken over the men’s ready to wear style director job LV has gone in a much more youthful direction and this editorial exemplifies that.
Shot by Jeff Hahn and styled by Madeleine Østlies.
The long-standing rumors have been confirmed. Raf Simons is in at Dior. I have mixed feelings about this appointment but I will reserve judgement until his first haute couture collection is shown in July. Long live Raf Simons.
Below passage via the New York Times
Dior Selects Raf Simons to Replace John Galliano
by Cathy Horyn
On Wednesday, the Paris fashion house will announce that Raf Simons will take over immediately as artistic director, replacing John Galliano, who was fired from Dior last year following anti-Semitic remarks. His first collection is planned for July at the fall haute couture shows.
The choice of Mr. Simons follows more than a year of discussions and apparent soul searching by Dior and its boss, Bernard Arnault, who is chairman of LVMH, about the ideal person to give creative direction to the 66-year-old luxury brand.
In an interview Monday, Mr. Simons expressed delight at the appointment. “The first time I heard about the Dior position,” he said, “I thought, ‘This feels right.’ ”
Read the entire article in the NYT.
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