With Thom Browne’s New York Fashion Week women’s show this upcoming Monday, the New York Times published a fantastic piece on him today by Guy Trebay. I thought the passage below really captures the essense of the Thom Browne brand.
“Cool is a word Mr. Browne uses a lot and is as good a term as any to define his aesthetic. His preferred form of cool is McLuhan-esque, emotionless, its iconography period-specific.
The period is the middle of the 20th century and the purest images of midcentury cool, Mr. Browne says, are those of Steve McQueen in “The Thomas Crown Affair,” John F. Kennedy while still junior senator from Massachusetts, and Thomas Watson types in tie-clips and wing tips, toting Samsonite attaché cases to their jobs running I.B.M.”
“Certainly the men’s wear that made his reputation — whittled-down suits, rejiggered Oxford cloth button-downs, bow ties, seersucker preppy shorts, letterman cardigans, brogues with Frankenstein soles, knitwear adorned with tennis-club chevrons and a welter of other skewed emblems of upper class folkways — were a rebuke to the late 20th century slob-fest resulting from years of dreary casual Fridays and a sartorial lack of discipline.”
I can’t wait to see what theatrics Mr.Browne has in-store for the show Monday. His was my favorite show last-fashion week and you can see read my review of that HERE.
Read the piece on NYT
The long-standing rumors have been confirmed. Raf Simons is in at Dior. I have mixed feelings about this appointment but I will reserve judgement until his first haute couture collection is shown in July. Long live Raf Simons.
Below passage via the New York Times
Dior Selects Raf Simons to Replace John Galliano
by Cathy Horyn
On Wednesday, the Paris fashion house will announce that Raf Simons will take over immediately as artistic director, replacing John Galliano, who was fired from Dior last year following anti-Semitic remarks. His first collection is planned for July at the fall haute couture shows.
The choice of Mr. Simons follows more than a year of discussions and apparent soul searching by Dior and its boss, Bernard Arnault, who is chairman of LVMH, about the ideal person to give creative direction to the 66-year-old luxury brand.
In an interview Monday, Mr. Simons expressed delight at the appointment. “The first time I heard about the Dior position,” he said, “I thought, ‘This feels right.’ ”
Read the entire article in the NYT.
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