Being one of the few men’s brands that is still made in New York City, Engineered Garments stands independently in both it’s production and outlook. Beyond the clothes themselves, a notable aspect of this latest lookbook for the spring/summer 2016 are the casting choices. A testament to the versatility of the clothing, EG has always been about updating classic American vintage with a twist and this lookbook shows just how versatile some of the pieces are no matter your personal style. Standout pieces include an elongated Chester coat, olive BDU, and plenty of great prints on shirting, outerwear and shorts.
I’ve been watching the evolution of GFIRMG since the the creative team’s first foray into accessories with Silent Whisper. Since then the line has expanded from just accessories, to the t-shirt focused EYES&SINS to what is now the fullest expression of GFIRMG’s capabilities – Guerrilla Group. The new season once again draws from familiar sources – obscure action and sci-fi films, video games and anime but re-configures them in unexpected new ways. The Spring/Summer 2015 collection is entitled ‘The End of Secrecy’ and is a take on how the age of digital surveillance and expanded technological capability have presented the greatest affront yet to nature and man’s place within it.
This is all heavy stuff for a clothing line to express but luckily, the development in concept has also resulted in a leveling up of the functionality of the garments. The new line includes the use of custom synthesized fabrics, EAGLETEX® and ECOYA®, that are laminated and post processed with Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coating for adaptation of various environments, adding to overall mobility and versatility. Even simple stalwarts like the coaches jacket and cargo pants are reimagined with little details altered and customized. Graphics have also played a huge role in GFIRMG’s past designs and once again feature prominently here. Not all items have been released online as of yet but a small selection has already been put up for sale through the GG site.
Grind London has just dropped it’s new spring/summer 2015 collection named ‘In Season’. The collection consists of shirting, trousers/shorts, tees, light jackets and accessories that continue to reflect the brand’s London roots. The label pulls from the subcultures and music in London and in the past has heavily used reggae/roots motifs and graphics. In this latest go-around, the vibes are definitely summery with a focus on simple graphical designs that are right at home poolside or at the beach.
Items are available for order directly through Grind’s webshop.
Celebrated Italian retailer Slam Jam Socialism presents their take on the Undercover Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Religious reference and renaissance paintings have been part of UC designer Jun Takahashi’s repertoire for some time now and this editorial investigates this inspiration at the source. The Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin of San Luca was selected as the backdrop for this photoshoot. Situated on top of the hills around Bologna, the well-worn stonework effectively contrasts the current UC collection.
Shop the selection here.
GRIND Magazine is one of my favorite men’s style mags out of Japan. They always are able to present both high fashion and streetwear in a clean, creative context. WTAPS is one of the brands that they consistently feature and they really are able to nail down imagery that captures where WTAPS is currently at. While the military influence is still there, WTAPS has broadened both its audience and viewpoint over the last several years by diversifying the product and making it less of a literal ‘milspec’ brand than it has been in the past. The result is the brand embracing more items like the hats, sweats and flannels found here.
Shop the current collection at END Clothing.
We’ve covered information on the Supreme x Undercover collection as it has slowly leaked online. Now an official release date has been set with the pieces dropping in-store and online this Thursday, March 26 in London, New York and Los Angeles. It will be available in Japan on the 28th.
Pieces include a Schott Perfecto collaboration, a Trench Coat, 4 T-shirt designs, hoodies, shorts, flannels, bondage pants and sweatshirts. The manufacturing , branding and pricing all seems geared towards the Supreme audience as opposed to the regular Undercover consumer. On the plus side I anticipate the pricepoint will be more in line with regular Supreme (hopefully) instead of the types of prices we saw with the CDG Shirt x Supreme collabs.
If there was a show stopping item here, it would definitely be the Schott collaborative leather jackets. These take some of the design ascents of the UC riders and translate them over to a standard Schott design. Other than the schotts, I expect the t-shirts and hoodie to generate the most interest. I can only imagine the type of line that will be forming this week, so if you don’t want to pay resell prices the best point is to check the Supreme site Thursday morning right when the drop happens.
The April 2015 issue of SENSE contains an editorial showing of the new collaborative gear between Supreme and Undercover modeled by Jason Dill. Among the items shown include a Schott Perfecto Leather , hoodies, jeans, t-shirts and a trench coat along with shoes and accessories (shoutout to that ‘bear pillow’)
There’s been leaked photos of what looks like low-top canvas sneakers and a trucker hat. It seems that production is handled by Supreme as the prices are much more in-line with the NY-based label’s usual pricing as opposed to Undercover’s mainline prices. It’ll be undoubtedly difficult to get hands on some of this gear but if you love something from the collection, going directly to the supreme webshop is the best bet.
Undercover Leather Cow-Hide Biker Jacket It’s been quite difficult historically to pick up Undercover pieces from shops in the US or Europe. If you got a hole burning in your wallet you’ll be happy to know that a decent selection of first delivery items have hit UK based END Clothing. The Spring/Summer 2015 collection is inspired … Read more
Supreme has it’s seasonal launches down to a science at this point. The routine goes as follows they close the store before the start of a new season, put up an annual advertising program (this time with Neil Young outfitted in a box logo) and then they release a preview of what pieces are to come this Spring/Summer 2015. Supreme has transcended skateboarding and streetwear to become a ubiquitous New York brand; one that you’re bound to see countless times walking around downtown Manhattan.
I’ve gone through the preview and filtered down to what I think are the standout items. Of course there hasn’t been any leaks of the collaborations to come this season, but it has been confirmed that we should be seeing a Undercover x Supreme collaboration quite soon.
See my personal picks from the SS15 collection.
Supreme Reversible Cotton MA-1
The market has been filled with good variations on the MA-1 bomber and I like that this reversible cotton version keeps it straight to the point. A decent departure from the usual nylon fabrication, the jacket can be worn plenty of ways and should pair well with typical streetwear staples.
Supreme x Schott A-2 Leather Jacket
The Schott collaboration has become an annual thing at this point and this A-2 bomber should provide a slimmer fit than repro brands and a cheaper pricepoint than higher end Japanese labels.
Supreme Terry Football Top
While it’s hard to recall burning temps in the middle of a frigid Febuary, terry cloth will be a welcome fabric come July.
See my other selects after the jump