Word of a collaboration between Loewe and Junya first came in May and now we get a further glimpse at the capsule collection between the contemporary Spanish leather maker and Junya. Fashion filmmakers Marco Adamo Graziosi & Maria Host-Ivessich highlight both the apparel and accessories from the line. Most prominently denim and leather are shown as well as flashes of the bags (many of which are adorned with the signature Junya patchwork). It will be interesting to see full images of the outerwear pieces when they launch later this month.
It won’t be long til the remaining summer heat dissipates into crisp autumn air. Put away the t-shirts and take a look at these five shirting selections for Fall.
Black Pinstriped Patchwork Button-Down by Junya Watanabe
Junya has got shirt-making down to a science at this point in his career. Details abound on this joint from the artfully chaotic patchwork to the small spread-button collar. Really nice button placket and shirt-pocket on this and a shirttail hem. A nice update to the classic pinstripe shirt. $580 via SSENSE
Red Suede Shirt Jacket by Our Legacy
Our Legacy is a brand that has a continually puts out interesting shirting season to season. There’s not too much to say about this red suede joint. If you like luxury but wanna be low-key and not ostentatious about it, this shirt may be a worthwhile investment. Be wary wearing this to the bar, but know that if you do, people are gonna be asking to touch you. Horn buttons and snap front pockets make this easy to throw on and something you won’t likely have buyer’s remorse over despite the hefty price tag. $740 via Tres Bien Shop.
Noizig Print Shirt by C.E (Cav Empt)
I’m still a little tight about missing the Simulation shirt by C.E from their SS13 collection. Luckily redemption can still be found. I googled the word noizig and still have no idea what it means, but that’s beside the point. The greyed out sky print goes hard and C.E has been selling briskly since the brand reached North American shores. Stay ahead of the pack and cop with confidence. $266 via BDGA
Undercover Men’s Cotton Overshirt by Undercover
Like most guys I used to wear shirts that were way too long untucked because I didn’t know any better. This is like that the well designed version of that in the form of an overshirt. Designed to be worn over oversized, feel free to throw a t-shirt or slimmer button-down underneath this joint. This is a versatile layering piece that you can pair with either short bomber-style jackets or longer parkas or overcoats. The crisp cotton material looks great and has two functional pockets. £360 via Oki-Ni.
Elbow Patch Double Pocket by ts(s)
If you’re gonna buy a plaid shirt, either get a really cheap one or ball the fuck out and get one with some extra bells and whistles. Made from a unique plaid flannel and with navy elbow patches on each side; this is an undeniably good-looking shirt. While you may get lumberjack comments from plebeians rest assured that this one shirt is better than anything they’ve ever owned. $625 via Haven
If you’re looking for a new wallet to store your essentials in, these might be the option for you. A collaboration between spanish leather specialists Loewe and Junya Watanabe, these wallets feature a mix of fabrics from denim and leather to tartan plaid canvas. Look for these to drop at the end of August at Dover Street Market in London, and in the rest of the world in September.
Fred Perry x visvim
COMME des GARCONS Junya Watanabe MAN
Fred Perry x Undercover
Fred Perry is turning 60 years old this year. Best known for it’s classic take on the polo shirt, the brand is collaborating with the likes of visvim, Undercover, and sacai, COMME des GARCONS Junya Watanabe MAN and Kolor. Look for these polos limited quantities at 60 YEARS GALLERY located at Tokyo’s Dover Street Market Ginza from April 2nd to April 25th. If you ask me the visvim one is my favorite , followed by the Junya design as a close runner-up. See more after the jump
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Our post ‘History of the MA-1’ focused more on it’s utility and history as an Air Force garment, in this follow-up post the focus is on the best executed MA-1s in men’s fashion. The selections below fall into two main categories: authentic reproductions that emphasize the craftsmanship and detailing of the originals, and re-designed MA-1’s which alter the defining details of the MA-1. Take a look at the full list below
Helmut Lang ‘Bondage MA-1″
Helmut Lang designed these iconic MA-1s with bondage strap details at his peak as a designer. They come in a variety of colors and materials but they all show his ability to blend countercultural staples with a slimme down minimalist design aesthetic.
Raf Simons ‘Pyramid’ MA-1 from Spring/Summer 2000
Raf Simons’ early work was subversive, youthful and raw. This MA-1 looks like it’s straight out of a cyberpunk flick but was part of the collection SUMMA CUM LAUDE, which was inspired both by Mensa students and the gabba subculture. The cut is oversized, puffy and imposing but in a way that I could only describe as ‘near-perfect’. This is definetly a grail for the ages.
Rick Owens MA-1 (Various Models)
Rick is notorious for elevating menswear staples into items worth coveting. Rick’s take on the MA-1 is slim and sleek with clean lines. The clunky Rick metal zips and the modified wind guard put Rick’s signature on the bomber. These jackets come in a variety of styles but my favorites are the ones which are down filled and the ones with metal zippers on the sleeves. I’ve also seen a silk version that is incredibly to the touch but decidedly a little more delicate.
WTAPS MA-1 Fall/Winter 2011
No one should be surprised that WTAPS made this list. WTAPS specializes in modern takes on military garments, and their execution on the MA-1 is impeccable. What I love about WTAPS is that they apply their branding very tastefully and always put a signature on men’s staples without over doing it. They didn’t change adapt the standard Alpha Industries style MA-1 too much from the original, but they did add a few little touches that make it a more interesting/better-fitting piece. Also kudos to them on getting the sage green color and zipper pulls on this one ‘just right’.
Buzz Rickson “William Gibson MA-1”
It’s one thing when brands make faithful reproductions of vintage items, but Buzz Rickson goes further than that. This is the definitive repro MA-1, the legend is that Buzz Rickson spent over a million dollars to prepare production of key elements of this MA-1 (the re-made crown zippers for example). Also stuff of legend was that the MA-1 was never produced in black by Buzz Rickson until the company began getting requests from loyal readers of Pattern Recognition a modern sci-fi novel by William Gibson. In it the protagonist Cayce Pollard wears a Black Buzz Rickson MA-1.
“While Rickson’s had never made a black one, countless black jackets in the MA-1 pattern have been made over the years. It’s been a very popular, indeed classic pattern. These are not made to the specifications of the US military, but for sale to civilians. I gave Cayce one because I thought it worked for her, and I made it a Buzz, because that worked for me. I never stopped to think that Rickson’s didn’t actually make a black one, but if I had, that wouldn’t have stopped me. Hubertus Bigend doesn’t exist either, and I have my poetic license right here, laminated, in my wallet.
To my surprise, Cayce’s jacket immediately felt to me like a *character*, rather than merely a garment, and I liked that.”
“People who complain about the very high cost don’t understand the degree of sheer lunatic obsession that goes into these things. You are very unlikely to ever wear another piece of clothing this well-made. I know I never have. (They are actually better than the 1950s USAF originals, which were only finished to military contract standards.) They spent a million dollars, when the company started up, on machinery to reproduce 1950s USAF-spec Crown zippers. Nobody outside of Japan is very interested in paying for that, they told me, smiling. They have found their niche-market, bigtime.” – William Gibson
Undercoverism Fall/Winter 2011 Leather Sleeve MA-1
While it seems like it’s a trend to put leather sleeves on things, Jun Takahashi shows you how to do it right. Many past UC pieces have played on this theme of mixing and matches elements from different outerwear pieces. In this less traditional take on the MA-1, leather sleeves replace the usual nylon ones and a zipper details is added to the neck. The MA-1 has been stripped of some of it’s bulk and excess and made into this sleek, futurist design. I really love this piece because it opens up new ways to wear the MA-1.
Junya Watanabe eYe COMMES des GARCONS MA-1
Junya Watanabe has an amazing ability to tweak items in ways most designers wouldn’t have imagined. This jacket is kind of a hybrid of a motorcycle jacket and an MA-1. A perfect match if you ask me, especially considering that it looks just as badass reversed to the orange side. A piece any guy should be proud to own.
Komakino MA-1 (Various models)
Komakino is picking up where Raf left off in terms of new-wave and countercultural design. I’ve tried on a few of their MA-1s and they are all superbly cut. Slim and slightly cropped with all the details you want to see on a MA-1 intact. Some are quite plain but my favorite ones by Komakino have graphics hits on the back , arms or body. The White MA-1 in the the first image is from a collaboration with Opening Ceremony for the London Olympics and it remains one of my favorites to this day.
There you have it, eight of the best MA-1s of all time. Did your favorites make the list? If there’s one you think I omitted sound off in the new DISQUS comments. Also if you enjoyed this piece be sure to check out the feature I did on the Histry of the MA-1 HERE.
Words by Rocky Li
Boris Bidjan Saberi
Boris compliments this well-cut suit with a boots, a t-shirt and a rain-shell, adding a casual feel to an otherwise tailored look. The entire show revealed maturity and growth from the German designer and it ranks as one of his best to date.
Juun was one of the designers championing a fuller cut this season and he executed it in style. The highlight of the show were pieces which were variants on the MA-1 design. Presented here with creative layer, an oversized turteneck and Duke Nukem army cut Juun shows he’s in strong form in 2013.
A slightly slouchy silhouette mixed with a all grey tonal fit make this outfit worth considering for Fall. Damir is able to pull off a series of romantic AND wearable looks this collection. For FW13 he has refined his aeshetic and make it a little bit more accessible to men this season without losing the essence of his design style.
Rick Owens has been a major influence in men’s fashion over the past 10 year and in that time created his own fashion universe. Here Rick presents a cleaned up minimal take on the goth-glam look that’s become his trademark. The belted samurai jacket returns with cleaner lines underneath his signiture leather pattern. Th personal highlight for me on this fit is the paneled leather pants but the whole thing just looks incredibly badass. It’s always a pleasure to see how Rick continues to evolve as a designer without every straying too far from his roots.
Dries Van Noten
Dries brings a more somber presentation for this fall/winter collection with a palette of earth tones and paisley prints. The quilted bomber here is something Dries executes so well. The minimal collar, slim but still puffy shape and patterned trousers put this look on my list.
Saint Laurent Paris Men’s
One of the most anticipated shows in Paris, Hedi sets out to prove that rock isn’t quite dead. I gave Hedi a hard time with his debut womenswear collection but I’m pretty pleased with his debut men’s showing. This look from the show is deceptively simple but it’s execution is spot-on for what Hedi wants to achieve. While many designers try to incorporate rock influences, this just looks the part effortlessly. The way it should always be in rock’n’roll.
The title of this collection is ‘Chinpira’ meaning ‘Punk’ celebrates a movement largely characterized by a concern for individual freedom and anti-establishment views. This stood out as one of my favorite collections all week as it struck a delicate balance between intricately crafted luxurious garments and subcultural styling. The above look has a yakuza feel and the glasses definitely Chow Yun Fat from John Woo’s The Killer in the best way possible.
Yohji Yamamoto is a master and he has once again put together a collection that any man would be lucky to have in their wardrobes. What I loved about this particular look was the cut of the camel overcoat and the little details fro the shape of the boots to the look of the pull over-hat. The leopard print hat and glued on mustaches of the models add a welcome dose of quirkiness and humor to an otherwise serious affair.
Since his moto collection Junya hasn’t put a ton of black in his collections but this mostly-black look is Junya at his best. The washed out denim chore coat hung on the shoulders with the patchwork blazer underneath and the not too baggy/not too slim cropped trousers add up to a brilliant outfit.
Kim Jones has really revitalized Louis Vuitton menswear and made the brand relevant again to fashionable guys worldwide. With looks like this, it’s easy to see why. The tonal plaid suit layered underneath the show-stopping shearling parka just looks incredible. The styling with the toque and t-shirt add just enough chav to keep these luxurious clothes from being only the domain of rich white men. I imagine this is how Eastern Promises would have looked with a larger wardrobe budget.
Continuing with the shop profile posted yesterday, I styled these three looks using the items available there. You can find the items online or in-store at Nomad Toronto.
Cory wears: Junya Watanabe x Gloverall ‘Varsity’ Duffle Coat, Junya Watanabe camo shirt-jacket, Wings+Horns oxford shirt, Levi’s Jeans
Cory wears: Arc’teryx Veilance jacket and sweater, Adam Kimmel trousers, Trickers shoes, Cote-et-Ciel back
Cory wears: Wings+Horns Wool Jacket and cargo pants, APC shirt, and Reebok sneakers (models own)
Styling: Rocky Li
Photos: Joel Lee
Model : Cory Wong
Comme des Garcons SHIRT FW10 vest
Uniqlo down jacket
3.1 Philip Lim SS10 jeans
White Mountaineering FW10 boots
Monitaly FW11 leather jacket
Uniqlo denim shirt
Visvim SS08 FBT