Japanese label Julius has been one of the originators in the gothninja look for some time. Their signature are their razor thin distressed leather jackets styled in a fashion that strikes between industrial and rock n roll. While the look has now been diffused down to countless new labels and store shelves, Julius remains one of the best doing it if you like your clothes dark ,drapey and raw. This coveted write-up comes via contributor Zachary Leachman who is an Illinois based artist and musician. See the rest of the write-up and more photos after the jump.
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It’s been a while since we’ve done a ‘Coveted’ feature here at Third Looks. Personally I’m always interested in seeing archival gear and standout pieces from collections by my favorite designers. While there’s those items that you obessess over with that become grails, there are also items that you never intended on buying which eventually become your favorites. Those are the ones you might find at a consignment shop like Tokio 7 in New York just browsing or something you spot through a browser search late night while suffering bouts of insomnia. I’m happy to post this rare Junya Watanabe women’s piece. I know he had some great pieces so I asked him to share how he came across this particular jumper and how his appreciation for it has grown since owning it.
This piece wasn’t really anything that I had been searching for, so in the traditional sense, it was not something I had ‘coveted’ for a while. One of my good friends actually sent me the link of the Rakuten listing, and when I had seen it, I knew I had to have it. I bought it about five minutes after seeing the listing for the first time. I think it was really love at first sight.
Upon receiving it, I was actually amazed at how heavy the package was. The fabric is heavy cotton, with heavy metal loop attachments and “backpack” straps. My favorite detail though is that the straps on the sleeves and the back are actually adjustable, you can pull the fabric up the length of the strap and fasten it with the buckle in order to producing an effect that is reminiscent to ruching. Despite this sweater being a women’s piece, it still is probably one of the most worn pieces in my wardrobe.
Photos by Alexander N, you can follow him on his tumblr Helmut Mang.
More detail shots after the jump
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Above TOJ1 Varsity Jacket in the “Jason Bourne” Colorway
Varsity jackets, aka letterman jackets, are a classic wardrobe staple that underwent a strong resurgence in 2008. While traditionally worn by students to represent one’s school and/or team, it is not uncommon to to see various interpretations being offered by labels such as Visvim, Balenciaga, Junya Watanabe, Number (N)ine, and A.P.C. to name a few. Up until this point, the only letterman jackets available for purchase to consumers were either vintage or commissioned to be produced in bulk (Skookum aka Centralia Knitting Mills being one such company); either route usually resulted in a boxy fitting piece with awkward proportions and standard materials. This particular piece resulted from an individual’s effort to fulfill a demand among superfuture members for a high-quality letterman jacket that was also slim fitting and reasonably priced. Although initially started for a small group of members, it quickly caught on and to this day is still one of his most demanded pieces.
More after the jump
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My experience has been if you want something really bad, there is a good chance you’ll get it in the end. When I discovered these shoes, the season was already changing and stores were switching to new spring/summer pieces. I called practically every Dior boutique in North America and Europe but to no avail. I scoured the internet, on fashion forums, on eBay, and eventually ended up with a pair of white on white low tops that were 2 sizes too big. After about 6 months of occasionally scanning eBay and ready to give up, I managed to come across a listing for exactly what I was looking for in Germany.
There have been few times when I knew I couldn’t settle for any alternatives, that taking the effort to get what I wanted would be worthwhile, and those pieces would come with a story.
Harry makes his second Coveted contribution to Third Looks. In it he expresses something I’ve definetly experinced myself. Part of the appeal of clothes to me is the hunt. Seeing something you truly want and searching high and low for it until it somehow finally ends up in your possession. It’s the fashion equivalent of serendipity and it’s a truly satisfying feeling owning something you absolutely love, as opposed to buying another piece you just like. There’s been times where I’ve had to save up for months just to afford an items and in many cases those are the things I still treasure to this day. – Rocky
Words and Photography Harry Zhou
A few months ago I had read an article in Dwell picking apart the relative values of traditional art pieces and architecture. The author found it disturbing that a Frank Lloyd Wright could be had for a fraction of what a major Warhol piece may cost. This had me thinking about value disparities in the fashion market. I had seen this Undercover jacket pop up for sale a number of times between 2006 to 2009. With every change of hand the price went down, to the point where I found myself asking how such an amazing piece could be offered for so little. I eventually picked it up after it had gone through 7 to 8 owners.
Upon receiving the jacket, I needed to pick at and examine every detail of its construction, and it was overwhelming. Never have I seen something created to be so three-dimensional. Every superfluous detail was not just added to an immediately recognizable garment, but rather integrated into the construction and structure of the jacket. It’s impossible to say the same about something like the Dior Homme ‘Luster’ napoleon jacket, and yet the Dior jacket commands a price 25 to 30 times that of the Undercover in secondhand markets.
It is a shame and a boon at once that such a phenomenon exists in the fashion market. To most, only the most romanticized legends are desired. Those that are able to appreciate the thought, knowledge, and process imbued into a special garment however, this disparity has granted access to an inventory of art that is too often inhibited by retail markets.
Editor’s Note : I love Harry and all but I do resent him a little bit for owning this and humble bragging about how much of a steal he got it for. (Rocky)
Photos and words by Harry Zhou
The Spring/Summer 2003 ‘SCAB’ collection of Undercover by Jun Takahashi is regarded by many fashion purists as one of his seminal works. I do not think that these jeans are from the original SCAB collection but rather they reference some of details and patterns from that collection. These jeans are surprisingly lightweight and are fabricated in a stretchy comfortable cotton and not a rigid denim like I had assumed prior to seeing this piece in person.
Laid overtop the jean’s upper area is knit paneling which is reminiscent of some of the knit patterns found on fabrications of Undercover’s knit-sleeve rider jackets. This knit portion transitions down each leg into incredibly detailed patchwork which is entirely handstitched. This is a stunning piece that hits the rare balance between eye-catching and overdesigned. If you know more about this item and what collection it is from do not hesitate to e-mail me.
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