The North Face Purple Label SS14

The North Face Purple Label is one of those things that is  very hard to come by outside Japan. Like the clothing equivalent of a green tea flavored Kit Kat, you have to scour to find pieces from this sub-label.  As they have done for many seasons now, Purple label continues it’s tradition of paring down North Face technical pieces into something more refined and better fitting. I’ve always enjoyed how minimal the branding has been compared to regular North Face and you can expect pretty toned down shirting in an array of plaids, earth tones, navys and olives. Add to the fact that the female model in this lookbook is straight wifey status and you have yourself a lookbook worth looking through.

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C.E x Beauty & Youth SS14 Collection

When it comes to straight forward streetwear, few brands are doing it better than C.E right now. I’m happy to own a handful of pieces from the label and I’ve mostly found the quality, fit and detailing to be best in class when it comes to streetwear basics such as tees, hoodies and crewnecks. They paired up with fellow Japanese label Beauty & Youth for a small capsule collection of items featuring an ‘eyes’ motif.

The release date for the capsule collection is Jan 28 at Beauty & Youth stores around Japan. If interested in finding out more about C.E this interview with co-founder Toby Feltwell is a must-read.

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Whiz Limited SS14 Collection

I’ve posted Whiz Limited Collections on here before and it continues to be one of my favorite Japanese labels. I’ve yet to own any pieces by them but from what I can tell spring/summer 2014 is another strong outing. The styling here elevates the straight-forward product into something more interesting (that Varsity above should be an early contender for varsity jacket of the year). I  appreciate the color palette in this collection and how the different pieces are mixed and matched. Nothing is too bright or attention-seeking on it’s own but worn together there’s definitely a unique cohesive vision presented.  I’m not sure if it’s intentional or not but I definetly see a lot of visvim in this line.

Click through to see all the looks

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HUMAN MADE SS14 Lookbook

2013 was a year of transition for Nigo. He formally left his role at BAPE after 20 years and began his job as creative director for UT (Uniqlo). Along the way he continued working on his own line HUMAN MADE which is a logical extension from A Bathing Ape. While the lookbook doesn’t show us much we haven’t seen before, HUMAN MADE is really all in the details. There’s an usual assortment of men’s casual staples including crew necks, beanies, and a varsity all modeled by Nigo himself. Human Made is expensive but being able to feel the garments in person at Haven, I do feel the brand has a certain intangible quality that isn’t found anywhere else. The menswear world has an obession with vintage and heritage but Nigo has always been that rare visionary who could bridge the gap between current pop culture and old manufacturing.

More looks after the jump

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Nonnative Spring/Summer 2014 ‘Subcity Deweller’ Lookbook and Video

Japanese label Nonnative has been flying just under the radar for many years. The brands signature ARE well-made, easy to wear staples that subtly riff on the trends of the moment. Similar to brands like A.P.C or Acne, you can readily incorporate Nonnative stuff to a variety of wardrobes without too much fuss.  I thought the styling this collection was quite well done; really displaying how you can put together many different  types of looks from the spring/summer pieces.

nonnative 14ss SUBCITY DWELLER from euphoria factory on Vimeo.

In addition to the lookbook Nonnative put together this shaky VCR video which plays off of a group of young men who run across a bunch of roadside mannequins dressed in the season’s gear.

See all the looks after the jump

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Undercover Men’s SS14 Collection

Designers usually choose to add  colors to their Spring/Summer collections and keep Fall/Winter collections monochromatic. Jun Takahashi reverses this trend with Undercoverism SS14.  The collection is murdered out for the most part, and features a consistent shape; slim-cut long tops and jackets with skinny trousers or jeans. It seems like Jesus and the Mary Chain was an audio inspiration to the line with jackets emblazoned with ‘I’ll be a Plastic Toy’ and ‘Pyscho Candy’.

The collection shares much of the same DNA as the SS14 womenswear collection which was unveiled in Paris. The leather rider jackets here are excellent (as to be expected from UC) but there are some great looking basics in here as well (the longsleeves which fit slightly long and oversized come to mind). While leather accents on clothes is something the men’s market doesn’t need any more of, there’s plenty of that here too. All in all while presentation and styling seem a bit uninspired, there’s still plenty here that’ll worth buying come next year.

See all the looks after the jump.

 

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SASQUATCHfabrix SS14 Summer Lookbook

Japanese label SASQUATCHfabrix has one of the strangest brand names in menswear. This spring/summer collection is suitably quirky featuring slightly oversized t-shirts, jackets and hoodies in a color palette that traverses from off-whites and tans to blacks and deep blues. Also of note is that this might be one of the first lookbooks ever to effectively use a chainsaw. SASQUATCHfabrix isn’t the easiest brand to find in shops, so click HERE for a list of stockists.

 

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Sadak Spring/Summer 2014

Berlin-based label SADAK  presents it’s  Spring/Summer 2014 collection “in liminal space”. I wasn’t sure what to make of it when I first viewed the collection, but after going through all of the looks, I  see a pretty clear direction from  designer Sasa Kovacevic. Sasa is able to take contemporary men’s trends (printed t-shirts, drop crotch pants and oversized cuts) and put an imprint on them that feels fresh; likely because he’s drawing from such different influences.

Apparently the collection mixes Serbian hip hop subculture and Japanese traditional dress. You can see the inspiration in the Serbian 19th century embroidery, Japanese silk painting and Serbian ethnography. The shapes here are the most interesting part to me as they are straddle the line between bold and wearable. This is the type of collection that you can go all out with or tone down with more traditional wardrobe staples. 18 more looks after the jump

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Nicomede Talavera Spring/Summer 2014

Nicomede Talavera is an emerging talent from London. He graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins and  showcased his FW13 graduation collection as part of London Fashion Week.  No stranger to collaboration, he’s already designed two capsule collections of accessories for Eastpak. Spring/Summer 2014 marks his official debut with the launch of the full line and accompanying Eastpak accessories.

Spring/Summer 2014 continues Talavera’s exploration of the artist Elsworth Kelly’s work. Asymmetric collages ,minimalist color blocking, and classic tailoring influences inform the collection. The garments also have a consistent oversized drape to them that helps the unique color palette to really stand out. The bags themselves feature lampo zippers, and an interesting mix of materials (leather, nylon) and design details (carrying straps). This brand is definitely one to look out for in the coming months.

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Isaora Spring/Summer 2014 Behind the Scenes

New York City-based Isaora held their first NYFW runway show this past Sunday at The Line Hotel.  Daniel of Medium Concepts Showroom was able to provide Third Looks a behind-the-scenes glimpse.

Designers Marc Daniels and Ricky Henry revealed an edgier fashion-forward aesthetic for the maturing tech-centric line. With their roots firmly grounded in technical sportswear, the duo have confidently refined an aesthetic that appeals to the fashion crowd while remaining accessible and functional.

The garments on display highlighted Isaora’s heavy emphasis on advanced fabrication and performance-ready textiles, with nylon bonded outerwear, laser cut pieces, and waterproof shells. But these more advanced pieces were complimented by easy-wearing cut and sew, which allowed the collection to retain a relaxed feel amidst all the technical wizardry.

The presentation itself was a perfect compliment to the clothing: sharp, dramatic, and moody, with high-key lighting and an emphasis on geometry and line.

All photos and words by Daniel Small

See the rest of the photos after the jump

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