One of the most prominent marketplaces for men’s clothing Grailed has been making big moves of late. They launched an app earlier this month and today they launched a the Grailed 100. The Grailed 100 is a curated selection of diverse clothing, shoes and accessories from some of the most sought after labels today. Everything from Rick Owens, to Saint Laurent to older tees from streetwear stalwarts like C.E, Supreme and Palace. Some items have already sold out but there’s still plenty of items at various price points. Check it out over at the Grailed 100.
Leather jacket season is almost upon us and the gawd Rick Owens has been the best doing it for some time now. You may recall our leather jacket buying guide from last year where I went through the essential things to consider before pulling the trigger on a showpiece leather. One of my favorite repeat styles from Rick is the moto-neck instarsia. It’s minimal with clean lines and an excellent cropped fit. This is one of those pieces that the internet doesn’t do justice to, but it will definitely hurt your wallet. Luckily it’s currently on sale at Farfetch at 50% off. Lookout for me to do another leather jacket review in the coming weeks.
Adidas and Rick enter into their third season of collaborations with this new entry for the Spring/Summer 2015 season. Similar in nature and materials to last year’s tech runner, the shoe switches to a striking Springblade sole. The sneakers are a bit sleeker and lower than the former tech runners. Part of me wishes the upper on these was chunkier but the all black colorway definitely grew on me and stand out as the best model of the three.
All three versions of the sneakers are available now at Oki-Ni.
Future in Saint Laurent, Gucci Mane in Thom Browne
A$AP Rocky in C.E , Drake in Rick Owens
Kanye West in Damir Doma, Lil’B in Undercover & Dirty ass vans
Rap and fashion are increasingly interlinked to the point where it seems every other rap verse namedrops at least 2 designer names. I collaborated with English illustrator Rebel Youth on these sketches of various rappers in various gear from current SS14 and FW14 collections. Time will tell if any of these outfits will come to fruition in the real life but hope you find the idea of Guwop in TB or Lil’B wearing Undercover as amusing as we did.
Adidas and Rick Owens team up again on their second collaborative sneaker model the Tech Runner. The first release was a love it or hate it affair and it looks like the same will hold true this time. Inspiration this time around comes via the B-2 Stealth Bomber, and you can see these angular lines transalted on the EVA midsole. I actually prefer these to the original model though the grey suede/sand colorway stands out as the one I’d wear from the bunch. Expect these to release later this summer so look out for updates here on their release.
We got a special post for fans of Ricky Owens today. In a previous roundup I selected the RO bomber as one of the top MA-1 designs out and today regular contributor Alex N has written the below detailed review about his personal version of the jacket from the Spring/Summer 2011 collection ‘Anthem’.
I found this piece after feeling defeated that the other Rick Owens bomber I’d been eyeing on some consignment shop’s website was sold out. I was browsing through all of the Rick pieces up for auction, and saw this, and it was definitely meant to be. I bought it instantly and within a week, I finally had in my possession a true “grail” piece.
Rick’s bombers had always been up there for me. The proportions and detailing were all so sleek and perfect. This piece in particular, from “Anthem” Spring/Summer 2011, is in cotton twill with satin lining. Lightweight and comfortable, fitting on me just so slightly oversized that I could fit a cardigan or sweater underneath, to stay warm in fall/winter as well.
The jacket features two vast interior pockets, two exterior front pockets, and two arm pockets, all using super substantial Raccagni zippers. The interior pockets are deep enough to fit a regular sized book, notepad, or small tablet. The arm zippers are actually functioning pockets which are deep enough to hide a pack of cigarettes, vape, phone or even a personal stash.
The carrying strap is a feature of most Rick jackets, and personally my favorite feature of any piece of outerwear. Such a simple concept that gets used over and over again; a convenience that is well over-looked by many. Another of my favorite aspects is the intricate seaming on the arms, there is a gusset on the underarm that extends to the entire forearm.
This has been my everyday jacket ever since I got it, and it will continue to be my everyday jacket until it gets torn apart in a freak accident or something. Actually, I would just piece it back together and continue wearing it regardless of its condition.
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Having tracked the evolution of Rick Owens for the better part of a decade it’s always fun to see what he puts out each season. The main theme in his design career has been refinement, not necessarily re-invention. Fall/Winter 2014 continued his slant towards minimalism and it’s cool to see Rick continue to pare down some details while still experimenting more with volume and shape. The three looks from this season stood out to me the most are above in particular the military vest piece. I’ve seen many good takes on similar pieces but Rick definitely was able to give it a luxe feel. I also like the look with the layered black shorts as it’s an obvious homage to the Adidas shorts everyone wore in high school. Although I don’t intend on buying too much Rick in the near future, I do love the idea of wearing and styling Rick as expensive gym clothes/streetwear. Ultimately that’s what draws me to the brand as it’s branding and price-point serve to project one image, but Rick has always been about a confluence of disparate inspirations both high and low.
Also respect to Rick for somehow both designing some hybrid between a nun’s headpiece and a du-rag AND playing a chicago footwork track by RP Boo for the finale.
“I think all men want to project a certain amount of authority in the way that they dress. Défilé means parade, a military thing. I was thinking about how a young man reacts to authority, the way he is hard-wired to reject it in order to move forward and create his own authority. I remember rejecting authority and I remember how urgent that was – school! Cops! Teachers! Parents! Everything. A lot of what I do is a memory of that reaction. A man who’s interested in dressing, is interested in expressing himself. And part of that is rejecting standards” Rick Owens
See plenty of detail shots after the jump
Backstage Photos by Lea Colombo via Dazed
Many close-up detail shots after the jump
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Adidas have been making headlines all this last quarter of the year with their signing of Kanye West, their collaboration with Raf Simons and the re-release of the Stan Smiths.
You’ve probably seen these before but now we can take a look at all the colorways of the Rick Owens Adidas sneaker which is dropping for the Spring/Summer 2014 season. To me the best colorway is still the white/black joints. I’m not really feeling the brown or tan colors as much, but time will tell if they grow on me. I’m on the fence about buying these myself but I’m definitely looking forward to seeing and trying them on in person.
The shoes will be available for €440-490 EUR (approximately $600-670 USD) at Sneakerboy and other select outlets.
Photo of LeeAnet Noble (Dance Choreographer) via Into the Gloss
Reaction to the Rick Owens Spring/Summer womenswear 2014 show in Paris has been swift and divisive. In the presentation Rick eschewed the use of traditional models and instead assembled a team of step dancers recruited from US sororities. With the lack of racial diversity on fashion week runways making headlines in the lead-up to New York fashion week, many fashion commentators have cited Rick’s casting choices as a reaction to this. Rick Owens may have wanted to make a statement, but I believe it for personal one, not a political one. He cast the show the way he did because that’s he wanted to do creatively. Rick Owen’s motives for casting the show the way he did should not come under attack, instead we should praise him for having the courage to exercise his creative license. At a time when most fashion shows are forgotten about the day after, Rick Owens was able to make a meaningful statement AND a fun spectacle. No small feat at a time when most editors spend half the show on the phones.
May I remind you that this is the same Rick who selected an Estonian metal band Winny Puhh to play at his Spring/Summer 2014 men’s show . This is the same Rick Owens who listens to Katie got Bandz on the regular. Rick Owens has always been known to go his own way and this season he was able to present a vision that is pretty much the polar opposite of what’s considered desirable in the fashion industry. The presentation was not exploitative but honest to his headspace in 2013. There’s an strong theme of tribalism found in Rick’s body of work so it’s not surprising that he would find inspiration in the energy of American step teams. Those who deride this collection as mere PR trolling are missing the point (ironically they may be trolling for attention themselves through their accusations). Rick spent months preparing for this show and the production would have doubtless been countless times easier if he just cast through a modeling agency. The show’s dance captain and choreographer LeeAnet Noble made this statement about how sorority stepping what caught Rick’s attention on Into The Gloss.
“I have been stepping for most of my life—I was in the show Stomp on Broadway and I had done a show before with one of Rick [Owens]’s producers. Rick had seen some videos online of sorority stepping. Women steppers are hard. When they came out with stepping in sororities, they embodied the intensity and togetherness that the men’s groups had previously shown, the sisterhood. And when Rick saw the clips, he thought that their intensity embodied the vicious pieces, strong materials, and colors in his collection.
For an industry that’s supposed to be driven by creativity, there’s a surprising lack of it on each season’s runways and shop selves. Instead of original ideas , we get overworked designers rushing to put out more of the same. The same (mostly-white) models, walking down the same runways, with similar clothes based off the same trends. Stylists also, are repressed in their creative output with many companies putting strict restorations on just how their clothes can be worn (many labels will won’t allow stylists to deviate from the runway looks). I won’t even get into how ads for high-fashion labels all look the same.
I emphasize with the the pressure that comes with the unrelenting fashion calendar and the constant push for higher sale numbers from investors but as Rick showed with his Spring/Summer 2014, there’s always a different way to do things. You can choose to market your brand differently. You can choose to to cast your show as you please. You can choose to skip out a fashion week presentation entirely. Rick should be applauded for expressing his vision in such an unexpected way. With the passing of Alexander McQueen and the downfall of John Galliano, Rick Owens is one of the last few showmen in the industry. The shocking thing shouldn’t be that Rick Owens did something groundbreaking this fashion month, it’s that no other designer even tried to.
A denim jacket is a key wardrobe staple that can be worn almost all year round. I’ve went and picked out 5 of my favorites from the Fall/Winter 2013 season.
Neighborhood Stockman-D/C Jacket
A western-inspired light washed denim jacket from Neighborhood. The fading on the arms and body are quite believable and not overdone. The light color makes this easy to pair with chinos, cords and other fall/appropriate pants. Subtle branding and gold hardware round out the piece. Available at Haven for $429.
Visvim Social Sculpture 101 Damaged
The jacket has everything you look for in a denim jacket. Quality 12oz selvedge denim construction, subtle side pockets and an amazing wash. Visvim sets out to improve upon men’s staples in considered meaningful ways, and in many ways this is the best Levi’s Type-II style jacket on the market. 1070 EUR at Firmament Berlin.
A.P.C Denim Jacket
With a dark wash that is easy to pair with almost any outfit this A.P.C denim jacket is perfect for anyone who lives in the suburbs and wants to out-do every other guy in a 5mile radius. Based on Lee rider jackets, this jacket is a little more comfortable than breaking in something a totally raw denim jacket. I would also recommend this to anyone with the APC jean starter kit or if you work at a web startup. $290 at Mr.Porter.
Rick Owens DRKSHDW Worker’s Jacket
It’s a shame this DRKSHDW jacket doesn’t photograph as well as it looks in person. Rick delivers quality slim (but still slightly strange) fits and the denim is always good quality (although never selvedge). This design is more minimal than we usual see from Rick for his denim line, if indigo isn’t your thing this black worker’s jacket is a good bet. $829 at The Corner.
Undercover Black Quilted-Sleeve Denim Jacket
While now the contrast material sleeve thing seems to be everywhere in 2013, Undercover was one of the original brands to really implement it well. It has become something of a brand trademark they have played around with season to season. The quilting on the nylon sleeves adds some texture and the raw edges on the bottom hem set this out against the more luxe street goth thing every is doing now. Just don’t pair this with leather sweat pants. $815 at SSENSE.
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