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Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013

American fashion is often a slave to the overarching ideas of sale-ability and wearability. During a fashion week where many designers are attempting to stay relevant through trend-happy clothing Thom Browne continues to build upon the universe that he has long dreamt of living in. Mr.Browne claims the inspiration for the collection was the work of German painter, choreographer and sculptor Oskar Schlemmer.

The Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013 Presentation held at the Edna Barnes Salomon room of the New York Public Library was the absolute highlight of my New York fashion week. Against a backdrop of funhouse mirrors and giant silver pinwheels Thom spun a creepy, theatrical atmospheric and eye-catching narrative. An undead army of models clad in whale print, sculptural dresses, seahorses in bejeweled appliques, laser-cut out patterns and somber monochrome filled the room in designs that the Adam’s Family would die to own.

As his shows continue to wow fashion show attendees around the world, I believe Thom Browne deserves his due as a true industry visionary. After witnessing his Spring/Summer 2013 work I am so excited to see how Thom Browne can continue to add layers to his trademark prep style.

Thom Browne’s critics may ask the tired question : “Will any of this sell or be worn outside of this show?”. The response of anyone who had the pleasure of seeing this in person should be “Who cares?”

More photos of the collection on VFILES.

Words by Rocky Li
Photography by Rocky Li (via VFILES.)

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The first show I attended this New York fashion week was the Siki Im Spring/Summer 2012 runway show held at the Pier 57. The industrial backdrop of the venue was perfect for streetsmart and spiritual looks being marched down the runway. The collection was titled “Ghost Ranch” and was inspired by Georgia O’Keefe and her eerie New Mexico home. I snapped photos both of the show and backstage, you can see of my photos on VFILES.

Photos by Rocky Li

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I respect girls who are are about to look great AND express aspects of their personality through their personal style. Gia is a fellow Parson’s graduate and she currently works  as a PR coordinator for Comme des Garcons which is doubtlessly a dream job for many. I implicitly trust her taste when it comes to womenswear and I think she has an incredible eye for aesthetics in general (not just when it comes to fashion). While she is often low-key and subtle with the way she dresses, Gia can also put together looks that break necks with ease.

Look 1

Bread & Boxers T-Shirt
Comme des Garcon Skirt
Lanvin High-Top Sneakers

How does everyday life in New York inspire the way you dress?

I pay more attention to what guys wear in this city. It just looks so much more comfortable and the silhouettes are classic. Guys in New York aren’t afraid to play around with prints and colors and I do take inspiration from that. There’s so many visuals  in New York that make me take notice : it could be anything from street art to cereal packaging. I recently bought a few pairs of Happy Socks besides I liked the colors in the snack of aisle of M2M (ie my favorite, Pocky). Of course I had get red and white socks as well before going to the Yayoi Kusama exhibit at the Whitney.

 When did you start buying designer clothes?

The turning point was when I started working at Assin in Melbourne which is an amazing store that stocked Ann D, Dior Homme, Margiela, Junya, Number (N)ine, Haider Ackerman.

I learned a lot about menswear there and I managed to come away with some great pieces from my time there.

Look 2

Junya Watanabe SS2012 Cropped Rider Jacket
Junya Watanabe SS2012 Floral Print Dress
Junya Watanabe SS2012 Boots

You own some wilder pieces as well as some solid basics. How do you balance practicality and comfort against aesthetics in your wardrobe?

My actual clothing that I wear day to day has to be very comfortable. I walk around alot and I don’t want anything that’s too restricting. In general my style is pretty basic but I like statement pieces to mix it up. One thing I don’t compromise on is my rings. I never take them off and they feel so a part of me that I don’t even notice them there.

Look 3

Comme des Garcon SHIRT SS2012 Strawberry Print
Comme des Garcon Homme Plus Cropped Jeans
Comme des Garcon Sneakers (No vis)

Look 4

Junya Watanabe Shirt
J Crew Floral-Print Trousers
Junya Watanabe SS2012 Boots

What style inspirations do you go back to again and again?

The anime Nana.

Gogo from Kill Bill.

Nujabes music for the mood it creates.

Gregg Araki films.

You have some men’s pieces you wear reguarly. How do you work them into your outfits?

I’ve really gotten into just wearing plain white and/or black mens undershirts recently, like the Supreme/Hanes shirt or Bread & Boxers (worn in look 1). I like the simplicity of the cut and the casual feeling it provides. I like oversized cuts – button downs, like my new favorite is my new strawberry CdG SHIRT button down. Another favorite is my Rick Owens DRKSHW sleeveless hoodie that I’ve had since 2008 that I basically live in. I also frequently wear my Lanvin  Hi-Tops and Homme Plus denim cropped pants. I just treat them like normal clothes and I appreciate they are less fussy than women’s pieces.

Photos by Rocky Li

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Photos Courtesy of Milk Made

Yesterday was the opening reception of “DREAM & DRIVE” at Milk Studios. The photo project and book has been nine years in the making ; the result of an on-going relationship between The Kills and Kenneth Cappello. I attended the Q&A session in the early afternoon and listened to Kenneth Cappello, Jamie Hince, Alison Mosshart give insights into the last nine years of touring, rock&roll and countless photos taken in between.

I’ve been a fan of Kenneth Cappellos work since I first came across him years ago and it was inspiring to hear him speak on the experience of photographing The Kills for almost a decade. I appreciate photographers who are able to impose their own personality onto their work and the photos at this exhibition showed that Kenneth did just that. It was apparent that the photodocumentation on display was shot from the lens of a dear friend, not an outsider, and sometimes that makes all the difference.

You can read an interview with Kenneth HERE and pre-order the book online HERE.

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I met Black Dave almost a year ago at a Rick Ross show. Not long after that I came across his music video for Black Donald Trump. Since that video dropped I’ve watched his rap career gain momentum and spread through the downtown New York music scene. Black Dave is definitely on the come up, opening for the likes of Chief Keef and later tonight, Juicy J. Black Dave’s rap style is a reflection of his personality and New York upbringing. His songs alternate in mood from comical anthems to introspective and thought-provoking rhymes. Download his Black Donald Trump mixtape off Dat Piff.

Whether it’s true his skate tours or his ascension in the rap game, it’s a certainty you’ll be hearing more bout Black Dave.

The video for my personal Black Dave favorite – No Gracias

Photos by Rocky Li

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Supreme SS06 Codura Duffle Bag

Supreme  Leopard Camo  and Cordura Camera Bags

Supreme 19th Scatterweave Backpack (2005)

Supreme  SS11 Olive Zebra Cordura Backpack

Supreme FW08 Backpack

Supreme SS10 Leopard Camo Guide 28 Backpack

Since the brand’s inception Supreme  has been putting out seasonal bags, the most popular of which are the duffle bags and backpacks. While they used to only put out one backpack per year, the increased demand has resulted in Supreme cranking out more models.  The first backpack I got was my grey Supreme 19th Scatterweave backpack which was made in the USA and featured tons of great details :  hidden compartments , metal zips,  and durable construction. While the bags are no longer made in the United States, they still represent great quality, functionality at a price that’s fair (at least if you pay retail). Most of the designs are inspired by hiking, vintage or military packs.

The bags used to be a less hyped item that would sit for most of the season but as with many other items expect any desired models to sell out quickly.

Photos by Rocky Li

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Damen

Maison 24 Switchblade Mirror

Cain

The variety of living arrangements in New York never ceases to amaze me; entering each new home is always a novel experience. When I look out on the busy streets I always try to envision the spaces within and the people that reside there. In a city where space and amenities are at a premium; creativity and discipline are requisite traits in creating a comfortable living environment. Cain Semrad (Art Director at Paul Stuart) and Damen Seminero (Director of E-Commerce at Jonathan Adler) invited me to document their East Village apartment where they have lived for the better part of a decade.

I asked Cain for his philosophy on interior design.

“My basic philosophy is one of opposing elements. Both if us having worked for Jonathan Adler we have several of his pieces, which are fantastic, but I will seek out street art, found objects and grittier items to create a high/low balance to the elements. I need that conflicting aesthetic in my surroundings.”
Cain on setting up a New York Apartment

“In New York apartments space is limited, we all talk about the size of our apartments. To keep things compact you constantly have to find inventive places to store things. I don’t mind controlled chaos but lived-in clutter isn’t good. Become a master of concealment, Damen is a genius at this. Either that or take it to extreme maximalism, I admire all forms of obsessive behavior. Any space that looks considered is successful.”
Some of Cain’s favorite pieces in his apartment come from Maison 24.

“Maison 24 is an incredible boutique with locations on 57th & Park and in Bridgehampton. The owners, Allison and Louis are longtime friends of ours and I’ve worked with them on their store marketing for several years. Allison and Louis have incredible taste and their shop is among the more unique in town. We share a love for the grand and the gritty. The razor blade mirror is a good example of the Maison 24 aesthetic.”
Photos by Rocky Li

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A few behind the scenes snaps of the next Third Looks Style Profile with Dae. I got a little help from photographer Rebekah Seok this time.

Hold tight the full feature is coming very soon.

Photos by Rocky Li

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JonCarlo

Marc from Isaora

Klaxon Howl

Fremont

Assembly New York

Ade

Va$htie Kola

Ryan Kibler

William Yan

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Jake

Journal Standard

Scott M

Lee

New Balance

Big E

Amardeep and Andrew

Kitsune

Diemme

Ebbets Field Flannels

I visited Day 2 of Capsule’s New York Men’s Show and took these snaps of my experience. It was a fantastic opportunity to catch up with old friends and meet everyone working behind the scenes in men’s fashion.

Photos by Rocky Li

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