The ongoing collaboration between Undercover designer Jun Takahashi and Nike continues under the Gykausou running sub-line. Previous seasons have shown a transition towards incorporation more technically advanced textiles and this continues in the Spring/Summer collection with the inclusion of Nike Sweat Map ventilation. The sweat map tech uses an engineered jacquard weave with pinpoint laser perforations in order to keep the hottest areas of the body cool under pressure and rigorous exercise.
A key design theme this season is the idea of duality (ying-yang). This is expressed throughout the line through contrasting colors and materials split vertically across garments and footwear. To Jun (and many athletes) Takahashi running is a battle between two opposite emotions. It’s a struggle between joy and agony, elation and exhaustion, persistence and surrender. It is a crusade waged by both the body and the mind and that constant struggle definitely shows graphically in this collection.
The usual mix of jackets dri-fit tops, and running shorts/pant is back but this time they are accompanied by a new sneaker model Nike Lunar Speed AXL. While I do like aspects of the collection, I was a little disappointed when I first saw the collection. It seems like the more elaborate lookbooks of past seasons have been replaced by the more stock photography found here, and the designs themselves don’t stand out as much from the rest of the pack as they used to. Perhaps as the line grows, Jun’s direct involvement is being reduced and the line has adapted to serve more of a core running audience than the more fashion-oriented crossover audience that it had in the past.
The Nike x Undercover Gyakusou Spring 2014 Collection launches globally on March, 1.
See the full collection after the jump
