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A new feature at The Telegraph goes in-depth with design legend Raf Simons. Each chapter of Raf’s career in fashion has been marked by evolution. While his namesake menswear has been one constant through over 20 years of designing, he has worked stints as the creative director of Jil Sander and most recently as the head of Dior.
In the article Raf hints that the relentless pace of luxury fashion left him somewhat creatively burnt out. His product design work for Danish textile design specialist Kvadrat really highlighted how insane the deadlines in high fashion really are at this point.
“Having the timeline of a year is like heaven for me because at Christian Dior I used to do eight collections a year and each collection could contain up to 150 fabrics,” he says. “I’ve done three fabrics this year for Kvadrat and I really, really pay attention to it. It’s beautiful to be able to give a project substantial incubation time. When I did fabrics at Dior I had to choose them within a couple of hours sometimes – seeing everything, deciding, making colour palettes… then hoopla – launch.”
Raf also touches on his frustration with how the focus on major fashion houses has shifted to the marketing of clothing through social media and away from ensuring the creativity behind the designs themselves.
“Everyone is paying attention to the wrong thing in my opinion. There’s this huge debate about ‘Oh my God, should we sell the garments the day after the show or three days after the show or should we tweet it in this way or Instagram it in that way?’… You know, all that kind of bullshit. Will all that stuff still be relevant 30 years from now? I don’t think so. What we should ask is will we have enough creative people who are strong enough and willing to do what is necessary right now to follow that madhouse. Lots of people are starting to question it. My generation especially is shifting now… like me and Phoebe [Philo], Nicolas [Ghesquière] and Marc [Jacobs]. We’ve been around for 20 or more years. We know what fashion was and where it’s heading to. Now it’s a question of what we are willing to do and how we are going to do it.”
Rumors have spread that Raf may take the lead at Calvin Klein next but it remains to be seen who he will end up designing for next. Read the entire piece over at The Telegraph.
Adidas and Palace continue their seasonal collaboration with a new range dropping in time for summer. A lot of the gear tackles the core aspects of Adidas sportswear – track suits, shorts, and athletic tops and sweats. Of particular note is a navy blue velour suit suit that is sure to move quick. If you’re looking for items from the drop be sure to get them soon as they drop on May 21.
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Highsnobiety has posted a great new interview with ACRONYM co-founder Errolson Hugh. In the piece, he touches on the impact of technology on Acronym’s development, how hated the ACR Lunar Forces were prior to release, and some of the huge challenges that the company faced in trying to develop their product and expand the company. Check the interview out here , and re-visit the latest SS16 release from ACRNM here.
Yesterday saw the launch of the new season from ACRONYM. The spring collection is more focused on layering pieces and pants than it is on outerwear. There’s a great mix of returning classics and new styles. One of my favorite new pants ACR put out is the P20. It’s a tapered pant based on a new idea for mechanical knee articulation. Other highlights are the Nemen J28 jackets which come in 4 colors. Each is beautifully object dyed with a different gradient. Another highlight is the J1B-S , which essentially acts like a remix of the classic J1A.
The stuff has been moving very quickly online but you can find it on the ACRNM site. Other online stockists include END, Haven, Hanon Shop, Hotoveli , IDOL, BDGA and Firmament.
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Y-3 is set to roll out pieces from it’s spring/summer 2016 collection. Accompanying the collection is a short high energy video that focuses on movement. The video is shot a frenetic pace and aims to highlight the fluidity and comfort in the fabrics. For more visit the Y-3 site.
One of the most prominent marketplaces for men’s clothing Grailed has been making big moves of late. They launched an app earlier this month and today they launched a the Grailed 100. The Grailed 100 is a curated selection of diverse clothing, shoes and accessories from some of the most sought after labels today. Everything from Rick Owens, to Saint Laurent to older tees from streetwear stalwarts like C.E, Supreme and Palace. Some items have already sold out but there’s still plenty of items at various price points. Check it out over at the Grailed 100.
Jun Takahashi steers Undercover in a different direction for Fall/Winter 2016. While the Spring/Summer 2016 collection is a greatest hits compilation of sorts, the upcoming season once again re-invents what the Undercover label can stand for.
The main source of inspiration is found in Belgian artist Michael Borremans’ paintings and there is artwork from the artist that is directly used on garments (Such as the Black Mould painting on the back of the one of the parkas). Along with the graphics themselves, this collection introduces a more muted pastel color palette of light blues, greys and tans. The shapes themselves also very from the usual very skinny to slim cut items to now wider silhouettes and coats that provide more volume. Rounding out the collection is a strong string of accessories from the prominently featured hats to new backpacks and a nice take on Wallabee type boot finished with a ripple sole.
Check more looks after the jump or visit Undercover for more info.
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Here they are, the coke white Y-3 Qasa High. If you’re a reader of this site, the Qasa probably needs little introduction. From afar they seem more like an art object than a sneaker. Not for the meek of heart, these look like they would get scuffed straight out the box. If you can live with the risk however, this is one of the best colorways of this sneaker to date. We’ve covered these before and I had always hoped they would release in triple white. Part of me dreams of wearing these with a crazy teched out arctic look. These are now up for pre-order at Barney’s and Sneakerboy.
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Toronto plays host to the NBA All-Star game next month for the very first time. To commemorate the occasion, OVO has teamed up with sportswear specialists Mitchell & Ness on a capsule collection of black and gold branded gear. The lineup of items to be released includes a full sweatsuit (crewneck/sweatpants) t-shirts, hats, varsity jacket and a duffle. The items mix logos from both OVO and the Toronto Raptors and the mini lookbook below also includes a further look at the upcoming Jordan OVO 10s. Look for the gear to drop online and in-store at Real Sports inside the Air Canada Centre exclusively on January 22.
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While I didn’t like Visvim SS15 offering at all, Fall/Winter 2015 proved to be one of the labels best collections in some time. So far the follow-up seems to be quite promising with what’s shown in this new editorial in SENSE magazine. There’s a promising red anorak as well as a tan colored technical trench. Consider this a teaser for the full SS16 lookbook which should be dropping soon on the Visvim site. Look for product to start arriving online at shops including Mr.Porter, SSENSE, END and Haven.
