This was the first Y-3 show I’ve had the pleasure of seeing in person. The location was an abandoned factory space in the lower east side which provided a historical contrast from this futurist sportswear by Yohji Yamamoto. In the collection there’s pretty straight on takes on sportswear staples such as track jackets and sneakers but my favorite pieces were the ones that blended signature Yohji shapes with synthetic materials and minimal Y-3 branding.
More after the jump
Boris Bidjan Saberi
Boris compliments this well-cut suit with a boots, a t-shirt and a rain-shell, adding a casual feel to an otherwise tailored look. The entire show revealed maturity and growth from the German designer and it ranks as one of his best to date.
Juun was one of the designers championing a fuller cut this season and he executed it in style. The highlight of the show were pieces which were variants on the MA-1 design. Presented here with creative layer, an oversized turteneck and Duke Nukem army cut Juun shows he’s in strong form in 2013.
A slightly slouchy silhouette mixed with a all grey tonal fit make this outfit worth considering for Fall. Damir is able to pull off a series of romantic AND wearable looks this collection. For FW13 he has refined his aeshetic and make it a little bit more accessible to men this season without losing the essence of his design style.
Rick Owens has been a major influence in men’s fashion over the past 10 year and in that time created his own fashion universe. Here Rick presents a cleaned up minimal take on the goth-glam look that’s become his trademark. The belted samurai jacket returns with cleaner lines underneath his signiture leather pattern. Th personal highlight for me on this fit is the paneled leather pants but the whole thing just looks incredibly badass. It’s always a pleasure to see how Rick continues to evolve as a designer without every straying too far from his roots.
Dries Van Noten
Dries brings a more somber presentation for this fall/winter collection with a palette of earth tones and paisley prints. The quilted bomber here is something Dries executes so well. The minimal collar, slim but still puffy shape and patterned trousers put this look on my list.
Saint Laurent Paris Men’s
One of the most anticipated shows in Paris, Hedi sets out to prove that rock isn’t quite dead. I gave Hedi a hard time with his debut womenswear collection but I’m pretty pleased with his debut men’s showing. This look from the show is deceptively simple but it’s execution is spot-on for what Hedi wants to achieve. While many designers try to incorporate rock influences, this just looks the part effortlessly. The way it should always be in rock’n'roll.
The title of this collection is ‘Chinpira’ meaning ‘Punk’ celebrates a movement largely characterized by a concern for individual freedom and anti-establishment views. This stood out as one of my favorite collections all week as it struck a delicate balance between intricately crafted luxurious garments and subcultural styling. The above look has a yakuza feel and the glasses definitely Chow Yun Fat from John Woo’s The Killer in the best way possible.
Yohji Yamamoto is a master and he has once again put together a collection that any man would be lucky to have in their wardrobes. What I loved about this particular look was the cut of the camel overcoat and the little details fro the shape of the boots to the look of the pull over-hat. The leopard print hat and glued on mustaches of the models add a welcome dose of quirkiness and humor to an otherwise serious affair.
Since his moto collection Junya hasn’t put a ton of black in his collections but this mostly-black look is Junya at his best. The washed out denim chore coat hung on the shoulders with the patchwork blazer underneath and the not too baggy/not too slim cropped trousers add up to a brilliant outfit.
Kim Jones has really revitalized Louis Vuitton menswear and made the brand relevant again to fashionable guys worldwide. With looks like this, it’s easy to see why. The tonal plaid suit layered underneath the show-stopping shearling parka just looks incredible. The styling with the toque and t-shirt add just enough chav to keep these luxurious clothes from being only the domain of rich white men. I imagine this is how Eastern Promises would have looked with a larger wardrobe budget.
His look: Rick Owens Men’s Short Sleeved T-Shirt | Damir Doma Men’s Jelesto Bomber Jacket | Damir Doma Men’s Chanos Coat
Her look: Kolor Women’s Seam Detail Shorts | Jil Sander Women’s Box Sweater | Damir Doma Women’s Channa Coat | Cherevichkiotvichki Women’s Bark Dyed Ankle Boots
His look: Damir Doma Men’s Candiru Coat | Lanvin Men’s Tuxedo Collar Mix Material Shirt | Yohji Yamamoto Men’s Striped Tuck Trousers | Lanvin Men’s Gum Effect Calfskin Low Trainer Shoe
Her look: Haider Ackermann Women’s Steiner Jacket | Yang Li Women’s Skate Shorts
His look: Jil Sander Men’s Vilnus Jacket | Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus Men’s Jaquard Jersey Trousers
Her look: Lucas Nascimento Women’s Basket Weave Short Sleeve Top
His look: Lanvin Men’s Double Breasted Slim Collar Coat | Jil Sander Men’s Geometric Pattern Jumper | Damir Doma Men’s Drop Crotch Pintano Trousers | Lanvin Men’s Merinos Velvet Lambskin Mid Top Trainer
Her look: Boboutic Women’s Crew Neck Metallic Yarn Jumper | Boboutic Women’s Soft Jacquard Trousers | Cherevichkiotvichki Women’s Bark Dyed Ankle Boots
His look: Lanvin Men’s One Button Short Jacket | Lanvin Men’s Wool Gaze Polo Neck Jumper | Damir Doma Men’s Pholis Fisherman Trousers
Her look: Lucas Nascimento Women’s Chenille Crew Neck Sleeveless Bodice Top | Yang Li Women’s Skate Shorts
LN-CC presents a series of looks for men and women set against a futurist geometric backdrop. While many of the items on LN-CC are definitely covet-worthy I appreciate that the styling on the site brings everything together.
It’s a real honor to style profile Izzy Tuason of The Dandy Project. In the fashion industry a strong point of view counts for a lot. Izzy has been showcasing his personal aesthetic and his fashion favorites through his blog for years. His style is eclectic and I’ve always admired his ability to mix designer brands with vintage items, while working in accessories and even DIY pieces. As I shot this with him our conversations ran the gamut from clothes to film to music. I cherish any opportunity to have well-thought out, intellectual discussions on the clothing and culture we love. I’ve shared some of the dialogue we had through interview questions below. Through Third Looks I am striving to bring more of that to the forefront in the coming days.
Comme des Garcons SHIRT chinese character-print rayon shirt
Comme des Garcons Homme Plus drop-crotch shorts
Converse Chuck Taylor shoes
3.1 Phillip Lim tuxedo shirt
3.1 Phillip Lim raw-edged wool shorts
Casio watch on Native American turquoise and coral sterling silver band
Kung-Fu shoes from Chinatown
Has blogging changed your outlook on the fashion industry and your own personal style?
Blogging has worked as a very public mirror by which I can re-examine my thoughts on fashion and my personal style, and it has connected me with people who continue to enrich me.
The DIY posts on your blog are great. How long have you been doing your own DIY projects and what made you decide to share them online?
I’ve been doing the DIY posts early into the blog, which I started in 2008. I was living in Manila then, with very little access to fashion, and the way I thought I could best express myself was by creating my clothing. I wanted to share this process of creation with my readers.
Damir Doma cotton-cashmere long t-shirt
Damir Doma drop-crotch pants
Guidi platform chelsea boots
We spoke on how a lot of your style inspiration from outside of fashion. What are some things or places you turn to for inspiration.
I get inspired by a lot of things—film, television, music, people around me, and the thoughts in my head. Right now, I’m inspired by the sleek masculinity of Wong Kar-Wai’s heroes, the dark pragmatism of Walter White’s wardrobe in Breaking Bad, the exuberance of Twin Shadow, the natives of Bushwick, and the idea of comfort.
Number (N)ine sunglasses
Yohji Yamamoto shirt
Yohji Yamamoto wool hakama pants
Converse Chuck Taylor shoes
As you continue to accumulate more pieces in your wardrobe which item would you never ever part with willingly?
The Yohji Yamamoto pants I’m wearing in one of your photographs are one of my all-time favorites. The volume and size are seemingly ridiculous, but in reality, it is quite a subdued piece. Weird never goes out of style.
Any holy grail pieces you are still searching for or regret missing out on?
Black Guidi derbies
The perfect oversize double-breasted below-the-knee Yohji Yamamoto coat
The perfect body-skimming Julius leather jacket
A Patek Philippe Nautilus in steel
What are some of your favorite places to shop both online and in-store?
The LN-CC, Assembly New York, Atelier New York, IF Boutique, Park & Bond, and eBay.
Photos by Rocky Li