Currently viewing the tag: "Undercoverism"

For his FW18 Undercover collection , Jun showed that he really reveres the work of director Stanley Kubrick. He had toyed around with looks inspired by the Shining’s Grady sisters in his last women’s show and for his men’s collection at Pitti he showed many pieces based around Kubrick’s 2001: A Space odyssey. The film centers around a near-future where a rogue AI takes over a manned space mission. The feeling of isolation and dystopia is channeled through various prints reflecting scenes from the movie. It also shows up in other unexpected ways like the HAL 9000 LED fanny packs and raincoats screen-printed with “WARNING.HUMAN ERROR. COMPUTER MALFUNCTION”.  The rest of the collection offers up familiar re-treads on Undercover’s signatures – mixed fabrics, trim wool coats and military parkas. A real showstopper for me personally were the down jackets , with illumatinated facemarks that resembled the spacesuits from Kubrick’s sci-fi classic. Jun has always embraced the future in many of his collections, but looking to Kubrick for inspiration has also added a feeling of nostalgia to the proceedings.

If I could raise a criticism of the collection, it would be that the collection feels almost too predictable. It covers all the bases you expect from UC with the same type of printing techniques used in the past and in a way that feels very trend friendly. Still a good collection but perhaps next to the transcendent showing by his friend Takahiro , it feels a little more ordinary.

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Originally previewed earlier this season, the collaboration between Undercover head Jun Takahashi and Chitose Abe (of Sacai) is set to be released in Japan. The capsule will be made available at each respective Aoyama retail location (UNDERCOVER and sacai), as well as at the Amazon Fashion “AT TOKYO” brand store from October 20, 2017. The collection features a range of graphic minded pieces including T-shirts, sweaters and an extended coaches coat. It remains to be seen if they will see a wider release outside Japan.

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Undercover returns this season for a second round of collaborations with Supreme. The line this year is even more expansive than last years selection. The typical selection of branded typographic graphics is back along with some suprises (a doc martin boot, supreme GILApple and a reversible bomber). Graphic zip and pullover hoodies, tees, an all over coaches jacke,  bondage pant and a wool coat are some of the other options available this time around.  While the fit and production looks to come from Supreme, expect the line to sell out immediately regardless. Personally I think this collection is a step up from last years, and I have a feeling we might see this become a yearly thing similar to the CdG x Supreme capsules. Whether it’s worth the resell pricing or the hassle is up to you.

The collection will be available at Supreme’s in-store locations in New York, Los Angles, London, Paris, as well as its online store from September 22. Japan will see a September 24 launch date.

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I previously covered the Undercover FW16 collection ‘Instant Calm’ here.  Pieces from the collection have begun shipping and Idol Brooklyn has shot an editorial utilizing select pieces. The editorial mixes easy staples from the collection with the statement checkered scarves from the collection. Click through to see all the images from the editorial and visit Idol Brooklyn to shop the collection directly.

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Undercover has slowly be dropping more pieces from it’s Spring/Summer 2016 ‘The Greatest’ collection. The Hypebeast store has picked up some of the most impressive items from it, most notably the tech poncho. Other items of note are the Jack Procell style sneakers and flannels. Shop the items over at HBX and take a look back at the collection lookbook here .

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One of the most prominent marketplaces for men’s clothing Grailed has been making big moves of late. They launched an app earlier this month and today they launched a the Grailed 100. The Grailed 100 is a curated selection of  diverse clothing, shoes and accessories from some of the most sought after labels today. Everything from Rick Owens, to Saint Laurent to older tees from streetwear stalwarts like C.E, Supreme and Palace. Some items have already sold out but there’s still plenty of items at various price points. Check it out over at the Grailed 100.

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Jun Takahashi steers Undercover in a different direction for Fall/Winter 2016. While the Spring/Summer 2016 collection is a greatest hits compilation of sorts, the upcoming season once again re-invents what the Undercover label can stand for.

The main source of inspiration is found in Belgian artist Michael Borremans’ paintings and there is artwork from the artist that is directly used on garments (Such as the Black Mould painting on the back of the one of the parkas). Along with the graphics themselves, this collection introduces a more muted pastel color palette of light blues, greys and tans. The shapes themselves also very from the usual very skinny to slim cut items to now wider silhouettes and coats that provide more volume. Rounding out the collection is a strong string of accessories from the prominently featured hats to new backpacks and a nice take on Wallabee type boot finished with a ripple sole.

Check more looks after the jump or visit Undercover for more info.

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Undercover has had a history of teaming up with Nike on sneakers for many years now. From the Gyakusou seasonal releases to the fantastic Air Revaderchi model that was released in Japan only. To commemorate the 25th anniversary of Undercover, Nike is set to drop two colorways of the Court Force basketball sneaker. The sneakers come in a grey and tan and a plain black and white version. While not the most adventurous collab, UC’s cult status and worldwide following should ensure that these sell out soon after the December 1 release. Look for them on Nikelab and select worldwide retailers.

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JohnUndercover has found it’s niche with it’s spring/summer 2016 season. I was a bit skeptical of the diffusion line (if you can call it that) when it first launched. The price point being almost as high as mainline Undercover, the labels seemed to lack distinction in the crowded crop of current Japanese labels. That being said, it’s come on strong in more recent collections offering more pared down versions of Undercover concepts. It’s nice that the line is even more minimal on branding and graphics and more emphasis layering, color and materials.

The fall collection is strong on neutrals like tan, white and grey and uses them together to great effect. In this way, it’s achieving what every diffusion line should – creating something both familiar and different. JohnUndercover isn’t Undercover but it runs parallel to it the same way Gyakusou has embodied the running / technical side of UC. Looking back at the SS15 collection, there is a lot here that can be worked together with those pieces. While there’s no release date on any of this gear just yet, look for products from the fall collection to trickle into stores like SSENSE and Haven soon.

 

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Undercover is coming up on it’s 25 anniversary in 2016. To mark the occasion the spring/summer 2016 Undercoverism collection entitled ‘The Greatest’  draws inspiration from past UC collections. Many of the pieces re-interpret the themes of classic collections like  ‘But Beautiful’, ‘SCAB’ and ‘Languid’ to create something new all together. If you’re a fan of older Undercover this is a great opportunity to get items that you missed the first time around. It seems that there are also a number of licensed Star War pieces in the collection. The sci-fi series was always something aluded to in collections but it’s interesting to see it acknowledged directly here (though I’m a bit iffy on the SITH/JEDI snapbacks). Overall I the SS16 collection is an unpretentious acknowledgement of where UC has been and a nod to some of the brand’s long-term supporters.

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