Currently viewing the tag: "Undercover"

First shown at Pitto Uomo the FW18 Undercover collection is all based around the classic Stanley Kubrick film 2001 A Space Odyssey. In particular many of the pieces focus around the HAL supercomputer that stars as the main villain of the film . A standout piece from the collection is this insane down jacket that has a helmet hood design complete with a see-through visor.  Other details include raglan shoulders, syncopated contrast white panelling, “Undercover Astronautics Agency” emblem patch,  and a “HAL9000” reference patch from Space Odyssey, side zipped pockets, interior mesh pouch, zipped phone pocket at sleeve, cuff straps, straight hem, tonal stitching. While the jacket is not cheap retailing at $3,723 USD it’s already moving quickly on H Lorenzo’s store shelves. 

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Undercover is bringing out four new color ways of a new sneaker model called the Element 87. While the Gyakusou initiative has brought out new color ways of Nike models, it seems that Jun has been given even more creative freedom this time around. The react running sole is combined with a translucent t shell upper, exterior taping on the heel, an exposed lace collar, and trail-running style laces. All five color ways of the sneaker are expected to drop in Fall 2018, see all of them after the jump.


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After covering each show respectively, it’s time to take a closer look backstage. The joint theme connecting the two shows from Jun and Takahiro was the idea of Disorder/Order. Contrasting the two collections against each other, UC takes a much more youthful and streetwear oriented approach, while The Soloist show chooses to subvert traditional menswear. Click through to see more images and you can shop current season items from the brands at SSENSE and Idol.

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For his FW18 Undercover collection , Jun showed that he really reveres the work of director Stanley Kubrick. He had toyed around with looks inspired by the Shining’s Grady sisters in his last women’s show and for his men’s collection at Pitti he showed many pieces based around Kubrick’s 2001: A Space odyssey. The film centers around a near-future where a rogue AI takes over a manned space mission. The feeling of isolation and dystopia is channeled through various prints reflecting scenes from the movie. It also shows up in other unexpected ways like the HAL 9000 LED fanny packs and raincoats screen-printed with “WARNING.HUMAN ERROR. COMPUTER MALFUNCTION”.  The rest of the collection offers up familiar re-treads on Undercover’s signatures – mixed fabrics, trim wool coats and military parkas. A real showstopper for me personally were the down jackets , with illumatinated facemarks that resembled the spacesuits from Kubrick’s sci-fi classic. Jun has always embraced the future in many of his collections, but looking to Kubrick for inspiration has also added a feeling of nostalgia to the proceedings.

If I could raise a criticism of the collection, it would be that the collection feels almost too predictable. It covers all the bases you expect from UC with the same type of printing techniques used in the past and in a way that feels very trend friendly. Still a good collection but perhaps next to the transcendent showing by his friend Takahiro , it feels a little more ordinary.

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Originally previewed earlier this season, the collaboration between Undercover head Jun Takahashi and Chitose Abe (of Sacai) is set to be released in Japan. The capsule will be made available at each respective Aoyama retail location (UNDERCOVER and sacai), as well as at the Amazon Fashion “AT TOKYO” brand store from October 20, 2017. The collection features a range of graphic minded pieces including T-shirts, sweaters and an extended coaches coat. It remains to be seen if they will see a wider release outside Japan.

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SSENSE has started a new web series called Tiffany’s Tokyo TV. On the show reporter Tiffany Godoy goes and explores the fashion scene in Tokyo. The debut episode features an interview with none other than Jun Takahashi of Undercover , the two go for a morning run in Yoyogi park and discuss how running helps Jun’s design process.

Check out SSENSE’s selection of Undercover here.

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The Fall/Winter 2017 from Undercover is based around the theme of the Brain Washed generation. The pieces themselves cover all the essentials from tailored pieces to footwear and accessories and heavy weather parkas. There are many patterned items with graphic flourishes displayed but there are also a ton of more muted tonal looks in here. As always there are some signature Jun Takahashi design details such as the leather sleeves on the asymmetrical down jacket. The inclusion of oversized and downright baggy looks in this collection is a welcome departure to the usual UC formula as well.

Click through to see all the looks

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No stranger to sublines, Jun Takahashi is ready to release the first collection of the shepherd. The collection is a more tailored and mature take on what Undercover usually does. The first collection is modeled by none other than Thom Yorke (a close friend of Jun’s).

Click through to get a peek at what the initial collection of grown-up staples entails.

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Some of the most sought after UC grails have featured elaborate full size prints. This Fall/Winter collection contains a heavy duty printed Parka which should get you through all but the harshest winters. Details include a two way zip that extends to the hood, printed textile patch at the front and drawstrings at the waist and hem. The main selling point of course is the huge printed artwork on the back but besides that attention grabbing detail, this  is one of those pieces heads are going to regret sleeping on in a few seasons.

Get the parka over at SSENSE

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Undercover returns this season for a second round of collaborations with Supreme. The line this year is even more expansive than last years selection. The typical selection of branded typographic graphics is back along with some suprises (a doc martin boot, supreme GILApple and a reversible bomber). Graphic zip and pullover hoodies, tees, an all over coaches jacke,  bondage pant and a wool coat are some of the other options available this time around.  While the fit and production looks to come from Supreme, expect the line to sell out immediately regardless. Personally I think this collection is a step up from last years, and I have a feeling we might see this become a yearly thing similar to the CdG x Supreme capsules. Whether it’s worth the resell pricing or the hassle is up to you.

The collection will be available at Supreme’s in-store locations in New York, Los Angles, London, Paris, as well as its online store from September 22. Japan will see a September 24 launch date.

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