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The Fall/Winter 2017 from Undercover is based around the theme of the Brain Washed generation. The pieces themselves cover all the essentials from tailored pieces to footwear and accessories and heavy weather parkas. There are many patterned items with graphic flourishes displayed but there are also a ton of more muted tonal looks in here. As always there are some signature Jun Takahashi design details such as the leather sleeves on the asymmetrical down jacket. The inclusion of oversized and downright baggy looks in this collection is a welcome departure to the usual UC formula as well.

Click through to see all the looks

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Some of the most sought after UC grails have featured elaborate full size prints. This Fall/Winter collection contains a heavy duty printed Parka which should get you through all but the harshest winters. Details include a two way zip that extends to the hood, printed textile patch at the front and drawstrings at the waist and hem. The main selling point of course is the huge printed artwork on the back but besides that attention grabbing detail, this  is one of those pieces heads are going to regret sleeping on in a few seasons.

Get the parka over at SSENSE

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Having just passed the brand’s 25th anniversary, Undercover takes an interesting turn for spring/summer 2017. Jun Takahashi is quoted as saying that this collection is all about daily men’s clothes and putting out the pieces he wants to wear. He seems to have embraced a balance between the more conceptual and utility/ease of wear. The garments this year are cut larger and not the usually super-skinny cuts we’ve come to expect from UC. In addition the color palette is extremely varied with a rich selection of tans, greens, pastels and a ton of different applied graphics and striking prints. The collection also had a theme of improvisation to it, which is shown in the layering and styling. Jun wanted a collection where pieces could be mixed and matched and still look good and I believe he achieved that.

Jun shows that once you get used to the idea of what the undercover brand is, he gets bored and switches it up on us. The decidedly bohemian summer collection should make it onto store shelves early next year, here’s hoping that some of the more elaborate pieces get picked up by buyers. Look for it to drop at stockists like END, SJS, Haven and SSENSE soon.

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Jun Takahashi steers Undercover in a different direction for Fall/Winter 2016. While the Spring/Summer 2016 collection is a greatest hits compilation of sorts, the upcoming season once again re-invents what the Undercover label can stand for.

The main source of inspiration is found in Belgian artist Michael Borremans’ paintings and there is artwork from the artist that is directly used on garments (Such as the Black Mould painting on the back of the one of the parkas). Along with the graphics themselves, this collection introduces a more muted pastel color palette of light blues, greys and tans. The shapes themselves also very from the usual very skinny to slim cut items to now wider silhouettes and coats that provide more volume. Rounding out the collection is a strong string of accessories from the prominently featured hats to new backpacks and a nice take on Wallabee type boot finished with a ripple sole.

Check more looks after the jump or visit Undercover for more info.

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Japanese magazine PRODISM covers on upper-echelon streetwear and for their latest issue, the publication has presented an editorial look at Undercover Spring/Summer 2015 collection. We covered the collection previously here. The collection is one that many hardcore UC fans are looking towards as the brand is bringing back many of it’s greatest hits. Many of the designs revisit and re-create key design details from classic UC collections such as ‘But Beautiful’, ‘SCAB’ and ‘Languid’. The editorial is one of the better ones featuring UC pieces this year and it faithfully re-captures many key styles throughout the 13 looks.

You can find the latest issue here.

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Undercover is coming up on it’s 25 anniversary in 2016. To mark the occasion the spring/summer 2016 Undercoverism collection entitled ‘The Greatest’  draws inspiration from past UC collections. Many of the pieces re-interpret the themes of classic collections like  ‘But Beautiful’, ‘SCAB’ and ‘Languid’ to create something new all together. If you’re a fan of older Undercover this is a great opportunity to get items that you missed the first time around. It seems that there are also a number of licensed Star War pieces in the collection. The sci-fi series was always something aluded to in collections but it’s interesting to see it acknowledged directly here (though I’m a bit iffy on the SITH/JEDI snapbacks). Overall I the SS16 collection is an unpretentious acknowledgement of where UC has been and a nod to some of the brand’s long-term supporters.

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The highly anticipated Holiday season from Gyakusou has been trickling into stores over the past day. It’s now available online at NikeTrès Bien, Oki-Ni and Firmament Berlin and should be available at Nike Lab locations worldwide today. Just because you still struggle to pronounce Gyakusou, doesn’t mean you won’t be able to get it online.

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I’m happy to review the new Undercoverism FW14 lookbook for you guys. This collection comes off the Pyschocandy collection which was a monochromatic homage to the aesthetic of Jesus and the Mary Chain. For Fall/Winter 2014 Jun has selected a palette of muted earth tones and combined them with some patterns and more colorful prints/colors. The collection continues to define the evolution or ‘growing up’ of Undercover as a men’s brand.

Over the years UC has shed some of it’s more punk/streetwear roots and transitioned into a more straightforward collection of men’s staples with  subversive design elements sprinkled in throughout. This is a path that many of the OG Harajuku menswear brands have followed (WTAPS, Neighborhood and Visvim come to mind). For this collection the outerwear is the most exciting category. There’s some great coats and jackets in here , from the wool coats to signature UC updates takes on varsities and MA-1s.  The duck boots here also are a standout and I’m excited to see more photos of them in the coming weeks. Check the rest of the line after the jump and share your thoughts on the collection in the comments.

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Designers usually choose to add  colors to their Spring/Summer collections and keep Fall/Winter collections monochromatic. Jun Takahashi reverses this trend with Undercoverism SS14.  The collection is murdered out for the most part, and features a consistent shape; slim-cut long tops and jackets with skinny trousers or jeans. It seems like Jesus and the Mary Chain was an audio inspiration to the line with jackets emblazoned with ‘I’ll be a Plastic Toy’ and ‘Pyscho Candy’.

The collection shares much of the same DNA as the SS14 womenswear collection which was unveiled in Paris. The leather rider jackets here are excellent (as to be expected from UC) but there are some great looking basics in here as well (the longsleeves which fit slightly long and oversized come to mind). While leather accents on clothes is something the men’s market doesn’t need any more of, there’s plenty of that here too. All in all while presentation and styling seem a bit uninspired, there’s still plenty here that’ll worth buying come next year.

See all the looks after the jump.

 

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