Model: Alamantus at Elite
Grooming: Joshua Gibson at Sassoon
In the latest STYLED feature on Oki-Ni PORT Magazine online editor David Hellqvist puts together looks that combine formal tailoring and technical sportswear. As men’s fashion continues to develop in new directions, men are moving past sartorial rules of the past and combining disparate styles to create their own signiture looks. I strongly identify with the idea of ‘techno tailoring’ which David explains below.
Techno Tailoring is all about fusing the best of both worlds. Look at your life; there’s an element of formal strictness, whether you like it or not. You might subscribe to a casual lifestyle but no doubt you’ll need to dress up from time to time. Instead of hiding the crisp formal shirts and well-tailored coats, move them to the front of your wardrobe. Wear them with technologic sportswear. But the key is finding the balance; no-one dresses in stiff, formal and starched collars seven days a week, just as full-on outfits of innovative high performance gear only makes sense on athletes. Neither of them work as one-way versions of your everyday wardrobe. Techno Tailoring is about mixing sporty details with smart looks, about accessorising clever streetwear with well-made and qualitative bits of Savile Row aesthetic.
More images after the jump, view the entire shoppable feature on Oki-Ni.
As a gatekeeper to one of New York’s nightlife staples (Le Bain) Ian has literally seen it all. Given his own sense of style it’s not surprising that Ian has also made a career for himself as a stylist. He has worked with major brands including Levi’s and Uniqlo but also contributed to countless editorials dressing the likes of Azealia Banks. Most recently he did the styling for DEGEN and ODD’s New York Fashion Week presentations. I linked up with him recently and photographed him in some of his favorite fits while discussing his viewpoints on styling and style.
How did growing up in DC influence your style? How has your style evolved since then?
Growing up in suburbs of DC, I think it’s made my style kinda preppy; but since middle school I’ve always read fashion magazines and had access to the internet which I think influenced my style more than where I grew up.
As of late, I find my style gearing to more simple and classic pieces, less trendy and disposable items.
Mala NY Hat
COMMME des GARCONS PLAY Varsity Jacket
Thom Browne Shirt
Converse ‘Le Baron’ Chuck Taylor All-Stars
How did you start out as a stylist and what approach do you bring to styling?
I came to the city to study fashion design, but realized it wasn’t exactly what I wanted… After learning all the the potential things a stylist could do, I knew it’s what I wanted to do.
When it comes to styling, I just want to propose great outfits that people can actually wear; give new perspectives on layering, contrasting prints, or mixing brands.
See the rest of the feature after the jump.
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With Thom Browne’s New York Fashion Week women’s show this upcoming Monday, the New York Times published a fantastic piece on him today by Guy Trebay. I thought the passage below really captures the essense of the Thom Browne brand.
“Cool is a word Mr. Browne uses a lot and is as good a term as any to define his aesthetic. His preferred form of cool is McLuhan-esque, emotionless, its iconography period-specific.
The period is the middle of the 20th century and the purest images of midcentury cool, Mr. Browne says, are those of Steve McQueen in “The Thomas Crown Affair,” John F. Kennedy while still junior senator from Massachusetts, and Thomas Watson types in tie-clips and wing tips, toting Samsonite attaché cases to their jobs running I.B.M.”
“Certainly the men’s wear that made his reputation — whittled-down suits, rejiggered Oxford cloth button-downs, bow ties, seersucker preppy shorts, letterman cardigans, brogues with Frankenstein soles, knitwear adorned with tennis-club chevrons and a welter of other skewed emblems of upper class folkways — were a rebuke to the late 20th century slob-fest resulting from years of dreary casual Fridays and a sartorial lack of discipline.”
I can’t wait to see what theatrics Mr.Browne has in-store for the show Monday. His was my favorite show last-fashion week and you can see read my review of that HERE.
Read the piece on NYT
My style has been under constant evolution since I first got interested in fashion almost a decade ago. It has been a challenge working in pieces from so many different brands into my wardrobe and I always appreciate others who can dress across brands and flip it their own way. Paul is a fashion student at F.I.T and he is someone who definitely owns amazing pieces but the way he wears them is all his own. For men especially I think it is key to look and feel comfortable in the clothes you own. When it comes to the Style Profiles on Third Looks, I select people who dress according to their own vision. I hope that this site helps people find their own style and empowers them to make informed fashion decisions.
Vintage Snapback Hat
Jil Sander Floral T-Shirt
Raf Simons Derby Shoes
How’d you first get interested in fashion and how has your style evolved over time?
I liked clothes from an early age. I even went through my older sister copies of Vogue when I was younger. Then I got into skateboarding, wearing tapered baggy cords with Sal 23 or fatigue cargo pants and some Vans Old Skools. I would go through a copy of Transworld and see all those cool printed t-shirts and I was really into that, especially Hook-Ups. In early 2000 I came across Graniph T-shirts, which was a Japanese design company. I was looking into that and found an online forum called Superfuture and at the same time I was working for a high end retail store in NYC. These combined factors opened more doors to what’s out there. As I got older I transitioned to a more fitted and minimal style (slim wool trousers and dressy shoes). Despite that I always seem to go back to buying sneakers. My style changes now and then but I always reflect on my old style and mix it with my current style.
Supreme x Champion Hooded Coach Jacket
Rick Owens T-Shirt
Ann Demeulemeester Trousers
Rick Owens Sneakers
How has your education as a designer changed your outlook on clothes and shopping?
Fashion education made me more critical. I have an idea of how clothes are sewn together so when I see something made poorly, that just raises a red flag. Sometimes it is the complete opposite, I would see something so interesting and well made that I have to figure out how it was made. It can really help you realize some people are creative geniuses.
American fashion is often a slave to the overarching ideas of sale-ability and wearability. During a fashion week where many designers are attempting to stay relevant through trend-happy clothing Thom Browne continues to build upon the universe that he has long dreamt of living in. Mr.Browne claims the inspiration for the collection was the work of German painter, choreographer and sculptor Oskar Schlemmer.
The Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2013 Presentation held at the Edna Barnes Salomon room of the New York Public Library was the absolute highlight of my New York fashion week. Against a backdrop of funhouse mirrors and giant silver pinwheels Thom spun a creepy, theatrical atmospheric and eye-catching narrative. An undead army of models clad in whale print, sculptural dresses, seahorses in bejeweled appliques, laser-cut out patterns and somber monochrome filled the room in designs that the Adam’s Family would die to own.
As his shows continue to wow fashion show attendees around the world, I believe Thom Browne deserves his due as a true industry visionary. After witnessing his Spring/Summer 2013 work I am so excited to see how Thom Browne can continue to add layers to his trademark prep style.
Thom Browne’s critics may ask the tired question : “Will any of this sell or be worn outside of this show?”. The response of anyone who had the pleasure of seeing this in person should be “Who cares?”
More photos of the collection on VFILES.
Words by Rocky Li
Photography by Rocky Li (via VFILES.)
Raf Simons top and Number (N)ine jeans
Number (N)ine shirt and native print jeans
Thom Browne cardigan and polo , Engineered Garments shorts
Jil Sander T-shirt and H&M shorts
My friend Paul took these snaps on a recent trip through Texas. Look for a full style profile on him in the near future.
Photos by Paul Malonzo
The Gamme Bleu collaboration between Thom Browne and Moncler has been one of the most consistent capsule collections in menswear. Although I am more partial to the Fall/Winter collections, Thom Browne can never be faulted on his immaculate runway presentations. The SS13 iteration of Gamme Bleu is inspired by naval uniforms and traditions.
Thrifting and vintage shopping are not easy endeavors. Finding great used items for cheap requires time, dedication and most importantly, a discerning eye. The vintage look has approached cliche in New York; one has to travel no further than Williamsburg to see an army uniformed in washed denim, faded band t-shirts, and ill-fitting outerwear.
However when it’s done right mixing designer brands with vintage pieces is a thing of beauty. One of my close friends who does this better than pretty much anyone I know is Jimmy Jimeno who is the men’s store manager at Opening Ceremony. I’ve known Jimmy since his Toronto days and have seen him steadily build up a wardrobe filled with odds and ends from accross the style spectrum. To me Jimmy embodies a style perspective we should all embrace : ‘Wear what reflects your interests and personality.’ I’m excited to share Jimmy’s style with you all and in the spirit of the shoot I let Jimmy give a name to each of the below looks.
“Brown Ken in the Trap House Chillin”
New Era Fitted
Vintage MacGregor NFL Jersey
Dior Homme 2007 German Army Hi-Tops
I asked Jimmy how he shopped and was able to find meaningful additions to his wardrobe.
“For a while now, I’ve been finding most of my clothing at thrift stores or consignment boutiques. If I see something I like then I cop it, but trust that I got it for cheap. As a bit of an impulse shopper, I really don’t look for anything in particular aside from emotional satisfaction. Although, every new piece I buy can definitely be styled with other pieces in my closet.”
Jimmy on his personal style inspiration :
“Having grown up traveling all over the world and moving to a new place every two to three years, I’m what you call a third culture kid. A defining characteristic of a “TCK” is possessing a unique world view, which allows the individual to be highly accepting of other cultures and empathetic towards people who are different. This way of thinking has influenced my fashion sensibilities. Everything/everyone inspires me, and I find beauty everywhere, but to sift through all the bullshit, especially when it comes to fashion, requires a very critical eye and opinion.
Thus, besides adhering to menswear basics of good fit and practicality, my style is finding a comfortable balance between various contrasting elements – masculinity vs. femininity, conservative vs. avant garde, high class vs. hood, monochrome vs. colorful, looking like an anime character vs. looking to get laid, trying hard vs. not giving a fuck…”
Yes I’m wearing Thom Browne and Vivienne Westwood, but I will break your ankles and bust a tre in your face while your girlfriend watches.
Vintage Varsity I copped at Value Village in Toronto
Thom Browne Tank (was a t-shirt)
Vivienne Westwood Shorts
Inspiration: Ed Hardy for J.Crew Realness
Olympia Le-Tan for Gap x Collete Denim Jacket
Ted Baker Floral Shirt
Pink Converse Chucks
Faded at the park call me the Pigeon Whisperer
Vintage New Era Fitted
Reversible Jil Sander Jacket
Polo Ralph Lauren Hiking Boots
A topic that Jimmy and I have discussed at length is what we’d like to see change in the fashion industry.
“In general, I wish menswear wasn’t so cut and dry. I wish it wasn’t so hard for high fashion to embrace other non-Western, atypical ideas of beauty. I wish industry heads would get off their own dicks and be less contrived. I wish true trendsetters got more recognition.”
Photos and writing by Rocky Li