Currently viewing the tag: "SS18"

The theme of Raf’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection was inspired by the original Blade Runner film. The presentation itself in New York was done outside, re-creating the neon-lit back alleys that more resembled a movie set than a runway. The items are now arriving in-stores and feature a whole range of pieces from outerwear to shirting, pants, sneakers and accessories including printed lamps with Peter Saville graphics. Long-time fans of Raf will recognize the return of familiar Saville prints from past collections as well ranging from the Joy Division album artwork to the New Order Power,Corruption and Lies floral graphic. Shop the collection at Antonioli which featured a large buy from the season.

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If I were to name the most consistent brands when it comes to delivering well-styled lookbooks each and every season, nanamica would be at the top of that list. For it’s spring/summer 2018 collection the Japanese menswear specialists deliver on their promise of “minimal design with maximum functionality.”  Of note is the  great use of khaki and olive green in the collection, blended together with black and tan items. Technical fabrics used include GORE-TEX and PERTEX but it’s styled nicely as they are worked in with pieces that use natural materials as well. Look for pieces to drop early next year at international stockists for the label including END and Blue Button Shop.

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For COMME des GARÇONS HOMME’s Plus line, designer Junya Watanabe tweaked the standard Comme formula just a bit. Spring/Summer 2018 is an easy to wear collection of traditional suiting mixed in with sportswear-infused items. There are plenty of utilitarian details on the water repellant spring jackets. The color palette ranges from neutral greys, to black and accent colors of blue and red. Even if you don’t get any of the pieces, this is summer dressing done well. Click through to see the rest of the looks.

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Raf Simons brought a new level of excitement to New York Men’s Fashion Week with his Spring/Summer 2018 collection. While his namesake label may be on the back burner compared to his work as creative director of Calvin Klein, Simons showed that he’s extremely self-aware of his history and legacy as a premier menswear designer. The show occurred outside in Manhattan, with Simons choosing a chinatown location not far from the East Broadway bridges and the area’s signature neon lighting. The real city backdrop was a clear translation of Blade Runner’s future dystopia.

While the outdoor New York setting was new for Simons, it’s well in line with his tradition of building atmosphere and emotion into his collections. His designs are elevated by their mood and presentation. Certainly this wasn’t the only way that Simons looked back, with Simons bringing back the type of Saville graphics that are now an iconic part of his archive. The iconic Joy Divison’s Unknown pleasures graced shirting and Saville’s New Order typography was printed onto the Chinese style lanterns that lit the runway.

The clothing itself was a mix of long knee length coats, oversized hats, high boots and oversized screen printed items. Button-downs with the word Replicant were a direct nod to the film. Raf has always been at his best when he stands at the intersection of  personal influences, in this collection music, new york, and a dystopia film set combine to create a world that we are lucky to visit for a season, “More human than human” indeed.

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Takahiro Miyashita named his spring/summer collection  “Femme Fatale Fellow”. The idea behind the collection was to design the clothes that his dream woman would want to see him in. There is definitely a dark romantic air about this collection with Miyashita returning to his all-time muses – western clothes and rock n’ roll.

There is a also lot of Number (N)ine influence I see in the collection , in particular references from the ‘Noir’ collection. Perhaps Miyashita has returned to his archives to bring back some design concepts. In particular the cowboy shirts and blazers look particularly familiar. Another throwback comes with the homage to the late Kurt Cobain with the “We will always love you Kurt” text embellished onto the back portion of many garments.

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