Photo of LeeAnet Noble (Dance Choreographer) via Into the Gloss
Reaction to the Rick Owens Spring/Summer womenswear 2014 show in Paris has been swift and divisive. In the presentation Rick eschewed the use of traditional models and instead assembled a team of step dancers recruited from US sororities. With the lack of racial diversity on fashion week runways making headlines in the lead-up to New York fashion week, many fashion commentators have cited Rick’s casting choices as a reaction to this. Rick Owens may have wanted to make a statement, but I believe it for personal one, not a political one. He cast the show the way he did because that’s he wanted to do creatively. Rick Owen’s motives for casting the show the way he did should not come under attack, instead we should praise him for having the courage to exercise his creative license. At a time when most fashion shows are forgotten about the day after, Rick Owens was able to make a meaningful statement AND a fun spectacle. No small feat at a time when most editors spend half the show on the phones.
May I remind you that this is the same Rick who selected an Estonian metal band Winny Puhh to play at his Spring/Summer 2014 men’s show . This is the same Rick Owens who listens to Katie got Bandz on the regular. Rick Owens has always been known to go his own way and this season he was able to present a vision that is pretty much the polar opposite of what’s considered desirable in the fashion industry. The presentation was not exploitative but honest to his headspace in 2013. There’s an strong theme of tribalism found in Rick’s body of work so it’s not surprising that he would find inspiration in the energy of American step teams. Those who deride this collection as mere PR trolling are missing the point (ironically they may be trolling for attention themselves through their accusations). Rick spent months preparing for this show and the production would have doubtless been countless times easier if he just cast through a modeling agency. The show’s dance captain and choreographer LeeAnet Noble made this statement about how sorority stepping what caught Rick’s attention on Into The Gloss.
“I have been stepping for most of my life—I was in the show Stomp on Broadway and I had done a show before with one of Rick [Owens]’s producers. Rick had seen some videos online of sorority stepping. Women steppers are hard. When they came out with stepping in sororities, they embodied the intensity and togetherness that the men’s groups had previously shown, the sisterhood. And when Rick saw the clips, he thought that their intensity embodied the vicious pieces, strong materials, and colors in his collection.
For an industry that’s supposed to be driven by creativity, there’s a surprising lack of it on each season’s runways and shop selves. Instead of original ideas , we get overworked designers rushing to put out more of the same. The same (mostly-white) models, walking down the same runways, with similar clothes based off the same trends. Stylists also, are repressed in their creative output with many companies putting strict restorations on just how their clothes can be worn (many labels will won’t allow stylists to deviate from the runway looks). I won’t even get into how ads for high-fashion labels all look the same.
I emphasize with the the pressure that comes with the unrelenting fashion calendar and the constant push for higher sale numbers from investors but as Rick showed with his Spring/Summer 2014, there’s always a different way to do things. You can choose to market your brand differently. You can choose to to cast your show as you please. You can choose to skip out a fashion week presentation entirely. Rick should be applauded for expressing his vision in such an unexpected way. With the passing of Alexander McQueen and the downfall of John Galliano, Rick Owens is one of the last few showmen in the industry. The shocking thing shouldn’t be that Rick Owens did something groundbreaking this fashion month, it’s that no other designer even tried to.
A denim jacket is a key wardrobe staple that can be worn almost all year round. I’ve went and picked out 5 of my favorites from the Fall/Winter 2013 season.
Neighborhood Stockman-D/C Jacket
A western-inspired light washed denim jacket from Neighborhood. The fading on the arms and body are quite believable and not overdone. The light color makes this easy to pair with chinos, cords and other fall/appropriate pants. Subtle branding and gold hardware round out the piece. Available at Haven for $429.
Visvim Social Sculpture 101 Damaged
The jacket has everything you look for in a denim jacket. Quality 12oz selvedge denim construction, subtle side pockets and an amazing wash. Visvim sets out to improve upon men’s staples in considered meaningful ways, and in many ways this is the best Levi’s Type-II style jacket on the market. 1070 EUR at Firmament Berlin.
A.P.C Denim Jacket
With a dark wash that is easy to pair with almost any outfit this A.P.C denim jacket is perfect for anyone who lives in the suburbs and wants to out-do every other guy in a 5mile radius. Based on Lee rider jackets, this jacket is a little more comfortable than breaking in something a totally raw denim jacket. I would also recommend this to anyone with the APC jean starter kit or if you work at a web startup. $290 at Mr.Porter.
Rick Owens DRKSHDW Worker’s Jacket
It’s a shame this DRKSHDW jacket doesn’t photograph as well as it looks in person. Rick delivers quality slim (but still slightly strange) fits and the denim is always good quality (although never selvedge). This design is more minimal than we usual see from Rick for his denim line, if indigo isn’t your thing this black worker’s jacket is a good bet. $829 at The Corner.
Undercover Black Quilted-Sleeve Denim Jacket
While now the contrast material sleeve thing seems to be everywhere in 2013, Undercover was one of the original brands to really implement it well. It has become something of a brand trademark they have played around with season to season. The quilting on the nylon sleeves adds some texture and the raw edges on the bottom hem set this out against the more luxe street goth thing every is doing now. Just don’t pair this with leather sweat pants. $815 at SSENSE.
Rick Owens has his own special way of taking ubiquitous men’s staples and perverting them into something slightly grotesque but undeniably captivating. As he’s done with the Rick dunk (as it’s popularly referred to) , Rick has taken on the Timberland boot this season in the form of these Plinth Hiker Boots. Taking the basic silhouette of a Timb and making it extreme, he’s used thick suede leather and slapped it onto chunky exaggerated sole. The trademark Rick side-zip returns this time accompanied by a myriad of lace eyelets. These are boots that take some getting used to but as they were seen prominently at his FW13 runway show, they are only wearable to guys who have both the requisite funds and confidence level. You may hate these now, but I see these becoming a staple model for Rick moving forward. Get these at Oki-Ni.
More photos and a shot of how they look on the runway after the jump
LN-CC recently released this trio of Rick Owens sneakers featuring tan colored ponyhair and brushed black leather. The models include the familar high-top Geobasket trainer and two types of brushed leather Island Dunk shoes. Prices range from $1210USD to $1478. If you like ponyhair on sneakers, this is one of the better executions I’ve seen this year. Since their initial release Rick Owens high-top have always been a love it or hate it item, but personally I always welcome new iterations on a now iconic sneaker design.
You can shop the collection currently on LN-CC.
Hypebeast dropped this video previewing the upcoming Rick Owens x Adidas trainers set to drop in time for Spring 2014. First seen during Rick’s recent Paris runway show, the video captures the shoes in greater detail. The uppers mix premium leather with nylon and is accented by white suede. There are three colorways here, all white, all black, and a mostly black upper with a white midsole. In typical Rick Owens fashion these were a bit jarring to look at originally but they’ve steadily been growing on me since pics first leaked. Expect to find them retailing somewhere in the $350-500 price range.
Rick Owens latest Paris showing is possibly his most minimist collection yet. Having played with glam rock elements and more ornate displays in the past few collections, he returns here with a ‘less is more’ philosophy. His trademark leather jackets return stripped down to all but their most simple shapes. Tank tops and t-shirts have few accents except for a few zipper and touches of mesh and leather. The footwear is a mix of the divise Adidas collaboration (which is growing on me, day by day, though still something I wouldn’t buy for myself) and a new equally strange-looking boot.
Adding to the show’s proceedings was a much buzzed about performance from a former Eurovision contestant band as Winny Puhh that Rick says he discovered on the internet. Despite a collection that didn’t stray too far from his foundations, leave it to Rick’s to find a way to keep finding new ways to tell his strange stories.
More images after the jump
Continue reading »
Continue reading »
It was announced last week that Rick Owens would be collaborating on a sneaker for the Spring/Summer 2014 season. Now the first image of the sneaker has been released. It’s quite a departure from what Adidas is normally known for and even more out there than the Y-3 sneaker designs. The branding is subtle , taking cues from the perforations found on a Stan Smith sneaker, but the pod-like outsole are something I’ve never seen before. While early speculators were excited at the prospect of a cheaper Rick sneak, these will retail in the ballpark of $400-500. I’m still not quite sure how I feel about these, but feel free to express your thoughts in the comments section.
New York is stuck in the middle of a major heatwave right now and I’m sure many other locales worldwide are feeling it as well. When the heat is sweltering it’s pretty hard to get inspired to throw on a dope fit. I’ve put together some visual inspirations to me that express summertime, I hope they inspire you to try something new this season. With summertime dressing, less is more, and it’s about maintaining comfort without sacrificing self-expression in your outfits.
Many more images after the jump
I’ve loved the design of this parka since it was sent down Paris runways. It’s appeared in the past in different fabrics, but this ultra lightweight sheer version will keep you stunting all spring/summer long. With a zip closure, oversized hood and tons of pockets for you to store passports and sandwiches in, this jacket goes perfect with Rick drop-crotch shorts, his poplin sweatpants and a pair of white sneakers.
The only setback might be the price.
Available for $2440 at SSENSE.
Canadian Retailer SSENSE uses the mystery of an old movie theatre to produce a very ‘David Lynch’ feeling editorial which features this seasons pieces by Rick Owens, Givenchy, Juun J and Damir Doma and more..
Models Marc Massa @ FUSION NY + Emily Meuleman @ New York Models
Hair Makeup Andrew LY @ AGENCE L’ELOI using LA BIOSTHETIQUE
Photography & Art Direction SSENSE
- December 2013
- November 2013
- October 2013
- September 2013
- August 2013
- July 2013
- June 2013
- May 2013
- April 2013
- March 2013
- February 2013
- January 2013
- December 2012
- November 2012
- October 2012
- September 2012
- August 2012
- July 2012
- June 2012
- May 2012
- April 2012
- March 2012
- February 2012
- January 2012
- December 2011
- November 2011
- October 2011
- September 2011
- August 2011