I’ve loved the design of this parka since it was sent down Paris runways. It’s appeared in the past in different fabrics, but this ultra lightweight sheer version will keep you stunting all spring/summer long. With a zip closure, oversized hood and tons of pockets for you to store passports and sandwiches in, this jacket goes perfect with Rick drop-crotch shorts, his poplin sweatpants and a pair of white sneakers.
The only setback might be the price.
Available for $2440 at SSENSE.
Canadian Retailer SSENSE uses the mystery of an old movie theatre to produce a very ‘David Lynch’ feeling editorial which features this seasons pieces by Rick Owens, Givenchy, Juun J and Damir Doma and more..
Models Marc Massa @ FUSION NY + Emily Meuleman @ New York Models
Hair Makeup Andrew LY @ AGENCE L’ELOI using LA BIOSTHETIQUE
Photography & Art Direction SSENSE
Our post ‘History of the MA-1′ focused more on it’s utility and history as an Air Force garment, in this follow-up post the focus is on the best executed MA-1s in men’s fashion. The selections below fall into two main categories: authentic reproductions that emphasize the craftsmanship and detailing of the originals, and re-designed MA-1′s which alter the defining details of the MA-1. Take a look at the full list below
Helmut Lang ‘Bondage MA-1″
Helmut Lang designed these iconic MA-1s with bondage strap details at his peak as a designer. They come in a variety of colors and materials but they all show his ability to blend countercultural staples with a slimme down minimalist design aesthetic.
Raf Simons ‘Pyramid’ MA-1 from Spring/Summer 2000
Raf Simons’ early work was subversive, youthful and raw. This MA-1 looks like it’s straight out of a cyberpunk flick but was part of the collection SUMMA CUM LAUDE, which was inspired both by Mensa students and the gabba subculture. The cut is oversized, puffy and imposing but in a way that I could only describe as ‘near-perfect’. This is definetly a grail for the ages.
Rick Owens MA-1 (Various Models)
Rick is notorious for elevating menswear staples into items worth coveting. Rick’s take on the MA-1 is slim and sleek with clean lines. The clunky Rick metal zips and the modified wind guard put Rick’s signature on the bomber. These jackets come in a variety of styles but my favorites are the ones which are down filled and the ones with metal zippers on the sleeves. I’ve also seen a silk version that is incredibly to the touch but decidedly a little more delicate.
WTAPS MA-1 Fall/Winter 2011
No one should be surprised that WTAPS made this list. WTAPS specializes in modern takes on military garments, and their execution on the MA-1 is impeccable. What I love about WTAPS is that they apply their branding very tastefully and always put a signature on men’s staples without over doing it. They didn’t change adapt the standard Alpha Industries style MA-1 too much from the original, but they did add a few little touches that make it a more interesting/better-fitting piece. Also kudos to them on getting the sage green color and zipper pulls on this one ‘just right’.
Buzz Rickson “William Gibson MA-1″
It’s one thing when brands make faithful reproductions of vintage items, but Buzz Rickson goes further than that. This is the definitive repro MA-1, the legend is that Buzz Rickson spent over a million dollars to prepare production of key elements of this MA-1 (the re-made crown zippers for example). Also stuff of legend was that the MA-1 was never produced in black by Buzz Rickson until the company began getting requests from loyal readers of Pattern Recognition a modern sci-fi novel by William Gibson. In it the protagonist Cayce Pollard wears a Black Buzz Rickson MA-1.
“While Rickson’s had never made a black one, countless black jackets in the MA-1 pattern have been made over the years. It’s been a very popular, indeed classic pattern. These are not made to the specifications of the US military, but for sale to civilians. I gave Cayce one because I thought it worked for her, and I made it a Buzz, because that worked for me. I never stopped to think that Rickson’s didn’t actually make a black one, but if I had, that wouldn’t have stopped me. Hubertus Bigend doesn’t exist either, and I have my poetic license right here, laminated, in my wallet.
To my surprise, Cayce’s jacket immediately felt to me like a *character*, rather than merely a garment, and I liked that.”
“People who complain about the very high cost don’t understand the degree of sheer lunatic obsession that goes into these things. You are very unlikely to ever wear another piece of clothing this well-made. I know I never have. (They are actually better than the 1950s USAF originals, which were only finished to military contract standards.) They spent a million dollars, when the company started up, on machinery to reproduce 1950s USAF-spec Crown zippers. Nobody outside of Japan is very interested in paying for that, they told me, smiling. They have found their niche-market, bigtime.” – William Gibson
Undercoverism Fall/Winter 2011 Leather Sleeve MA-1
While it seems like it’s a trend to put leather sleeves on things, Jun Takahashi shows you how to do it right. Many past UC pieces have played on this theme of mixing and matches elements from different outerwear pieces. In this less traditional take on the MA-1, leather sleeves replace the usual nylon ones and a zipper details is added to the neck. The MA-1 has been stripped of some of it’s bulk and excess and made into this sleek, futurist design. I really love this piece because it opens up new ways to wear the MA-1.
Junya Watanabe eYe COMMES des GARCONS MA-1
Junya Watanabe has an amazing ability to tweak items in ways most designers wouldn’t have imagined. This jacket is kind of a hybrid of a motorcycle jacket and an MA-1. A perfect match if you ask me, especially considering that it looks just as badass reversed to the orange side. A piece any guy should be proud to own.
Komakino MA-1 (Various models)
Komakino is picking up where Raf left off in terms of new-wave and countercultural design. I’ve tried on a few of their MA-1s and they are all superbly cut. Slim and slightly cropped with all the details you want to see on a MA-1 intact. Some are quite plain but my favorite ones by Komakino have graphics hits on the back , arms or body. The White MA-1 in the the first image is from a collaboration with Opening Ceremony for the London Olympics and it remains one of my favorites to this day.
There you have it, eight of the best MA-1s of all time. Did your favorites make the list? If there’s one you think I omitted sound off in the new DISQUS comments. Also if you enjoyed this piece be sure to check out the feature I did on the Histry of the MA-1 HERE.
Words by Rocky Li
I am unsure of the exact time period that these Rick Owens trainers were released but I know that I have owned them since 2009 when I purchased them from another user on Superfuture. If I were to guess I’d say these sneakers date back to about 2007 and were some of the first iterations created. As time went on the trademark Rick Owens sneakers have undergone many versions but the original is still my favorite. There’s rumors that later sneakers abandoned the ‘swoosh-like’ check due to pressure from Nike but no official story has been reported.
These sneakers are near and dear to my heart and I could never let them go. They have seen their fair share of wear: scuffs, pen marks, and spilled drinks. The shoes are still feel substantial as ever and I feel the damage only adds to their character. I’ve gotten them re-soled twice now and will surely will have to again soon. There is something that is so compelling about the design of the sneakers that is difficult to place a finger on. The shoes are imperfect; simultaneously beautiful and slightly grotesque. In that way they are prime example of Mr.Owen’s design philosophy and a visual precursor to his later work.
Photo by Rocky Li
Boris Bidjan Saberi
Boris compliments this well-cut suit with a boots, a t-shirt and a rain-shell, adding a casual feel to an otherwise tailored look. The entire show revealed maturity and growth from the German designer and it ranks as one of his best to date.
Juun was one of the designers championing a fuller cut this season and he executed it in style. The highlight of the show were pieces which were variants on the MA-1 design. Presented here with creative layer, an oversized turteneck and Duke Nukem army cut Juun shows he’s in strong form in 2013.
A slightly slouchy silhouette mixed with a all grey tonal fit make this outfit worth considering for Fall. Damir is able to pull off a series of romantic AND wearable looks this collection. For FW13 he has refined his aeshetic and make it a little bit more accessible to men this season without losing the essence of his design style.
Rick Owens has been a major influence in men’s fashion over the past 10 year and in that time created his own fashion universe. Here Rick presents a cleaned up minimal take on the goth-glam look that’s become his trademark. The belted samurai jacket returns with cleaner lines underneath his signiture leather pattern. Th personal highlight for me on this fit is the paneled leather pants but the whole thing just looks incredibly badass. It’s always a pleasure to see how Rick continues to evolve as a designer without every straying too far from his roots.
Dries Van Noten
Dries brings a more somber presentation for this fall/winter collection with a palette of earth tones and paisley prints. The quilted bomber here is something Dries executes so well. The minimal collar, slim but still puffy shape and patterned trousers put this look on my list.
Saint Laurent Paris Men’s
One of the most anticipated shows in Paris, Hedi sets out to prove that rock isn’t quite dead. I gave Hedi a hard time with his debut womenswear collection but I’m pretty pleased with his debut men’s showing. This look from the show is deceptively simple but it’s execution is spot-on for what Hedi wants to achieve. While many designers try to incorporate rock influences, this just looks the part effortlessly. The way it should always be in rock’n'roll.
The title of this collection is ‘Chinpira’ meaning ‘Punk’ celebrates a movement largely characterized by a concern for individual freedom and anti-establishment views. This stood out as one of my favorite collections all week as it struck a delicate balance between intricately crafted luxurious garments and subcultural styling. The above look has a yakuza feel and the glasses definitely Chow Yun Fat from John Woo’s The Killer in the best way possible.
Yohji Yamamoto is a master and he has once again put together a collection that any man would be lucky to have in their wardrobes. What I loved about this particular look was the cut of the camel overcoat and the little details fro the shape of the boots to the look of the pull over-hat. The leopard print hat and glued on mustaches of the models add a welcome dose of quirkiness and humor to an otherwise serious affair.
Since his moto collection Junya hasn’t put a ton of black in his collections but this mostly-black look is Junya at his best. The washed out denim chore coat hung on the shoulders with the patchwork blazer underneath and the not too baggy/not too slim cropped trousers add up to a brilliant outfit.
Kim Jones has really revitalized Louis Vuitton menswear and made the brand relevant again to fashionable guys worldwide. With looks like this, it’s easy to see why. The tonal plaid suit layered underneath the show-stopping shearling parka just looks incredible. The styling with the toque and t-shirt add just enough chav to keep these luxurious clothes from being only the domain of rich white men. I imagine this is how Eastern Promises would have looked with a larger wardrobe budget.
A$AP Rocky made a stop in London to promote the release of his new album LIVELONGA$AP. On the way he collaborated with Oki-Ni choosing a selection of items from Rick Owens, Kenzo, Paul Smith, Margiela and more. You can shop his selections directly online HERE.
I’ve seen Jeremy post his fits in the past in superfuture “What are you wearing today” threads and have appreciated the evolution of his style. When I heard through a mutual friend that he was going to be in New York, I linked up with him to speak a bit about the fashion in Australia and also shoot a this style profile.
Currently Jeremy manages the Sydney outpost of one of the best shops in Australia Assin. They have two locations (one in Sydney and one in Melbourne) and carry top designer labels such as Undercover, Damir Doma, Miharayasuhiro, Ann Demeulemeester. He definitely exemplifies the type of brand mixing and experimentation that I personally recommend to guy’s looking to improve their personal style.
Describe your personal aesthetic and how your style evolved to it’s current point.
I don’t really categorise the way I dress so I guess you could say it’s quite eclectic. I lead a pretty casual lifestyle so I focus on being comfortable. I don’t like to stand out too much but I do like outfits that are unexpected so I mix and match labels, streetwear with designer pieces and try to create simple but interesting silhouettes and shapes. It’s evolved quite slowly, I really was just a jeans and t-shirt guy but started falling in love with some designers and their work and would pick up pieces that really spoke to me. Not always did they tie in with what I had in my wardrobe already so I would seek out complimentary pieces and eventually it all just came together.
New Era Fitted Cap
Damir Doma Bomber
Rick Owens DRKSHDW Hoody
New Balance Sneakers
How has managing a shop and seeing new items come in constantly changed the way you shop for yourself?
At the moment I tend to focus on shopping for statement pieces or something thats really unique. I’m at a point where I’ve got the classics and basics as the foundation of my wardrobe so any amazing shapes and fabrics really draw me in. Working where I do I see incredible pieces everyday so I tend to fall in love easily – my list is huge.
You seem to be quite confident in mixing and matching different brands. What advice do you have for other guys looking to do the same?
I think the best direction is not to stray too far from your comfort zone or jump on trends too much. Find pieces you have a connection with and just work around them. It’s more about considering your lifestyle and overall silhouette then just putting a signature high fashion piece with what you already wear. You see guys with a pretty conservative look, raw denim and button up shirts, but they will throw Rick hi-tops in the mix and everything looks off. If you feel uncomfortable more then likely it’s going to look that way. Get out in the stores and give everything a try. Shopping online is a great way to find new things but nothing beats handling a garment and trying it on – you instantly know if it works for you or not.
Damir Doma Silent T-Shirt
Ann Demeulemeester Sweater
Ann Ann Sneakers
What are some of your style inspirations?
To be honest I think I am more inspired by the garments themselves and the hard work the designers put into them but I do draw a lot of inspiration from the Japanese. Japanese street fashion magazines like Tune show some incredible outfits – designer labels, vintage and everything in between. You see some wacky stuff but somehow it looks totally natural on these guys. Even Vogue Homme Japan, puts together some zany stuff. Then it’s about pulling out the practical from the sometimes theatrical and doing your own thing.
More questions and images after the jump
Sean wears: Label Under Construction Jacket, Carol Christian Poell L/S shirt, Julius MA Jeans, Julius boots
Sean wears: Rick Owens Stooges FW 2008 Leather Jacket, DRKSHDW Cargo Pants, Damir Doma Creepers
Sean wears: Siki Im Jacket, Rick Owens T-shirt, Undercover trousers, Number (N)ine x Magical Design silver necklace and belt, Guidi Back-Zips
Special thanks goes out to Alex and Wei from Graymarket Brooklyn. All items worn on Sean are available in store at their location 242 Wythe Avenue #7. If you live in NYC you won’t regret visiting and checking out their selection of men’s and women’s archival designer pieces.
My style has been under constant evolution since I first got interested in fashion almost a decade ago. It has been a challenge working in pieces from so many different brands into my wardrobe and I always appreciate others who can dress across brands and flip it their own way. Paul is a fashion student at F.I.T and he is someone who definitely owns amazing pieces but the way he wears them is all his own. For men especially I think it is key to look and feel comfortable in the clothes you own. When it comes to the Style Profiles on Third Looks, I select people who dress according to their own vision. I hope that this site helps people find their own style and empowers them to make informed fashion decisions.
Vintage Snapback Hat
Jil Sander Floral T-Shirt
Raf Simons Derby Shoes
How’d you first get interested in fashion and how has your style evolved over time?
I liked clothes from an early age. I even went through my older sister copies of Vogue when I was younger. Then I got into skateboarding, wearing tapered baggy cords with Sal 23 or fatigue cargo pants and some Vans Old Skools. I would go through a copy of Transworld and see all those cool printed t-shirts and I was really into that, especially Hook-Ups. In early 2000 I came across Graniph T-shirts, which was a Japanese design company. I was looking into that and found an online forum called Superfuture and at the same time I was working for a high end retail store in NYC. These combined factors opened more doors to what’s out there. As I got older I transitioned to a more fitted and minimal style (slim wool trousers and dressy shoes). Despite that I always seem to go back to buying sneakers. My style changes now and then but I always reflect on my old style and mix it with my current style.
Supreme x Champion Hooded Coach Jacket
Rick Owens T-Shirt
Ann Demeulemeester Trousers
Rick Owens Sneakers
How has your education as a designer changed your outlook on clothes and shopping?
Fashion education made me more critical. I have an idea of how clothes are sewn together so when I see something made poorly, that just raises a red flag. Sometimes it is the complete opposite, I would see something so interesting and well made that I have to figure out how it was made. It can really help you realize some people are creative geniuses.
Our sense of style is rarely stagnant; I love that as we evolve and change as people, our wardrobes quickly follow. Since I’ve met Charly he has added many pieces that compliment his lifestyle and changing physique. While fashion is often focused on the concept of an “ideal” physique it is more inspiring for me to see people who are comfortable in their clothes. Rick Owens once said “Working out is modern couture”. Perhaps the larger lesson from that statement is that clothes shouldn’t dictate your lifestyle, your lifestyle should dictate the clothes you choose. Some of you may be familar with Charly from his role as community manager with TOJ (purveyors of fine leather jackets) but this feature should provide you plenty more insight into his personal style.
Rick Owens Intarsia mid-collar leather jacket
Rick Owens sweat pants
Custom made T-Shirt
Ann Demeulemeester combat boots
When did you begin caring about clothes and how has your style evolved since then?
The first time I began caring about clothes was in middle school when I got my first pair of Jordans and then Timberlands during my high school year in Philadelphia. This evolved into brands like Akademiks and Enyce paired with a throwback and a pair of AF1′s on my feet. Then in college, I got my first glimpse into some quality clothing by being introduced to Japanese raw denim. Since then, my style has just been whatever I feel comfortable in and silhouette that I want to achieve.
Rick Owens Intarsia mid-collar black leather jacket
Custom made T-shirt
Rick Owens DRKSHDW combo sweat pants
Rick Owens Ankle Boots
Explain how you first got into weight lifting and how it has impacted the way you shop for clothes.
Coming into my junior year of high school, I was 5’11″ and whopping 120-125 pounds of skin and bones. I didn’t like the way I looked and wanted to change my physique, so like most boys my age, I started to do a bit of lifting – nothing serious. Then as I got into college, my lifting intensified. By then it was part of my lifestyle instead of a chore, but I still had no clear path for the lifting. It did affect the way I shopped for clothing because my arms, legs, and butt would not fit into some of the skinnier pieces I wanted to wear. However, I kept that in mind and made sure I stayed a certain weight (170-175) so I could still fit into a lot of the clothing I liked. About 2 years ago, I got hooked onto powerlifting and that’s when my outlook on training and clothing changed. I realized that powerlifting made me happier than any piece of clothing would. Since then my training has took priority to fitting into clothing.
Much more after the jump, click through.