Currently viewing the tag: "NYFW"

Raf Simons brought a new level of excitement to New York Men’s Fashion Week with his Spring/Summer 2018 collection. While his namesake label may be on the back burner compared to his work as creative director of Calvin Klein, Simons showed that he’s extremely self-aware of his history and legacy as a premier menswear designer. The show occurred outside in Manhattan, with Simons choosing a chinatown location not far from the East Broadway bridges and the area’s signature neon lighting. The real city backdrop was a clear translation of Blade Runner’s future dystopia.

While the outdoor New York setting was new for Simons, it’s well in line with his tradition of building atmosphere and emotion into his collections. His designs are elevated by their mood and presentation. Certainly this wasn’t the only way that Simons looked back, with Simons bringing back the type of Saville graphics that are now an iconic part of his archive. The iconic Joy Divison’s Unknown pleasures graced shirting and Saville’s New Order typography was printed onto the Chinese style lanterns that lit the runway.

The clothing itself was a mix of long knee length coats, oversized hats, high boots and oversized screen printed items. Button-downs with the word Replicant were a direct nod to the film. Raf has always been at his best when he stands at the intersection of  personal influences, in this collection music, new york, and a dystopia film set combine to create a world that we are lucky to visit for a season, “More human than human” indeed.

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John Elliot (formerly John Elliot Co) is best known for men’s basics; the crux of which have been his hoodies, sweatshirts and crewnecks. Styles such as the Villain hoody, Escobar Sweatpants, and Mercer tees have gained a dedicated following and helped propel the brand’s growth to new markets. For Fall/Winter 2016 , the label aims to established a broader scope, bringing in new pieces like a shaggy fleece pullover (which resembles vintage Patagonia),  quilted down pieces and heavier wool and leather outerwear pieces. The show was sequenced and styled by color, going from clinical all-white looks to greys, olives and finally deep burgundy. Time will tell if guys will snap up the more elaborate pieces as quickly as as the basics but look for the items to be available this summer through their official site and stockists.

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New York City-based Isaora held their first NYFW runway show this past Sunday at The Line Hotel.  Daniel of Medium Concepts Showroom was able to provide Third Looks a behind-the-scenes glimpse.

Designers Marc Daniels and Ricky Henry revealed an edgier fashion-forward aesthetic for the maturing tech-centric line. With their roots firmly grounded in technical sportswear, the duo have confidently refined an aesthetic that appeals to the fashion crowd while remaining accessible and functional.

The garments on display highlighted Isaora’s heavy emphasis on advanced fabrication and performance-ready textiles, with nylon bonded outerwear, laser cut pieces, and waterproof shells. But these more advanced pieces were complimented by easy-wearing cut and sew, which allowed the collection to retain a relaxed feel amidst all the technical wizardry.

The presentation itself was a perfect compliment to the clothing: sharp, dramatic, and moody, with high-key lighting and an emphasis on geometry and line.

All photos and words by Daniel Small

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Highland hosted a presentation for their Spring/Summer 2014 collection this past Thursday at the downtown landmark Santo’s Party House. In true Highland fashion, the presentation was an amalgamation of disparate influences and felt more like a college house party (complete with free PBR) than a fashion show. The presentation had the models lifting weights at times underneath a poster of Arnold in his prime.

There’s some new additions to the line everything from denim jackets to knit beanies. The stand pieces for me were the iridescent MA-1, the 3M  jacket and the graphic-print sweatpants. The plain jerseys were also a really nice take on something that fashion designers are trying their hardest to play out.  The footwear which was provided by converse were painted by Highland to look like Adidas. Many of the looks were styled with a basketball shorts in a variety of designs.

The rest of the night featured a series of musical performances by Lakutis, Rat King and Gobby. The whole thing had a nice hazy 90’s music video feel to it and it was great to see the local support that Highland is getting (not to mention a recent Drake cosign).

In a week that’s often times very corporate, manufactured-feeling and filled with pretension, Highland just threw a good party for their friends and supporters.  Be sure to check out my interview with Lizzie and Cramer from Highland in case you missed it the first time around.

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Brooklyn based Eckhaus Latta has made a reputation of having some of the most eccentric presentations each fashion week. The fall/winter collection did not disappoint in that regard. An interactive experience where photographers and invitees could have the models pose and speak with them. The presentation featured everything from readings on new age philosophies to bottled Eckhaus Latta branded gin cocktails.

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Terence Koh

Luar Zepol

Telfar

Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony

Virgil Abloh

Y-3

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Tons more photos after the jump

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This was the first Y-3 show I’ve had the pleasure of seeing in person. The location was an abandoned factory space in the lower east side which provided a historical contrast from this futurist sportswear by Yohji Yamamoto. In the collection there’s pretty straight on takes on sportswear staples such as track jackets and sneakers but my favorite pieces were the ones that blended signature Yohji shapes with synthetic materials and minimal Y-3 branding.

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Willy Cartier and Virgil Abloh

Shayne

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Do you remember smoking weed, drinking beer, eating Doritos and playing N64 in your high school friend’s basement? Highland presented guests of their FW13 collection with an experience that was quite similar to those carefree days of youth. The set was littered with bongs, snacks, a PBR beer pyramid and shag carpeting and admist the chaos were models donning the collection of jackets, sweaters, branded t-shirts and jeans. The interactive presentation was a reflection of the brand’s approach, smartly and subversively using the wasteland of American suburbia as a platform for refined streetwear. While Highland make not be a household name in the US menswear market yet, this presentation exemplified how the brand is quickly building  steady buzz in New York.

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