John Elliot (formerly John Elliot Co) is best known for men’s basics; the crux of which have been his hoodies, sweatshirts and crewnecks. Styles such as the Villain hoody, Escobar Sweatpants, and Mercer tees have gained a dedicated following and helped propel the brand’s growth to new markets. For Fall/Winter 2016 , the label aims to established a broader scope, bringing in new pieces like a shaggy fleece pullover (which resembles vintage Patagonia), quilted down pieces and heavier wool and leather outerwear pieces. The show was sequenced and styled by color, going from clinical all-white looks to greys, olives and finally deep burgundy. Time will tell if guys will snap up the more elaborate pieces as quickly as as the basics but look for the items to be available this summer through their official site and stockists.
Designers Marc Daniels and Ricky Henry revealed an edgier fashion-forward aesthetic for the maturing tech-centric line. With their roots firmly grounded in technical sportswear, the duo have confidently refined an aesthetic that appeals to the fashion crowd while remaining accessible and functional.
The garments on display highlighted Isaora’s heavy emphasis on advanced fabrication and performance-ready textiles, with nylon bonded outerwear, laser cut pieces, and waterproof shells. But these more advanced pieces were complimented by easy-wearing cut and sew, which allowed the collection to retain a relaxed feel amidst all the technical wizardry.
The presentation itself was a perfect compliment to the clothing: sharp, dramatic, and moody, with high-key lighting and an emphasis on geometry and line.
All photos and words by Daniel Small
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Highland hosted a presentation for their Spring/Summer 2014 collection this past Thursday at the downtown landmark Santo’s Party House. In true Highland fashion, the presentation was an amalgamation of disparate influences and felt more like a college house party (complete with free PBR) than a fashion show. The presentation had the models lifting weights at times underneath a poster of Arnold in his prime.
There’s some new additions to the line everything from denim jackets to knit beanies. The stand pieces for me were the iridescent MA-1, the 3M jacket and the graphic-print sweatpants. The plain jerseys were also a really nice take on something that fashion designers are trying their hardest to play out. The footwear which was provided by converse were painted by Highland to look like Adidas. Many of the looks were styled with a basketball shorts in a variety of designs.
The rest of the night featured a series of musical performances by Lakutis, Rat King and Gobby. The whole thing had a nice hazy 90’s music video feel to it and it was great to see the local support that Highland is getting (not to mention a recent Drake cosign).
In a week that’s often times very corporate, manufactured-feeling and filled with pretension, Highland just threw a good party for their friends and supporters. Be sure to check out my interview with Lizzie and Cramer from Highland in case you missed it the first time around.
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Brooklyn based Eckhaus Latta has made a reputation of having some of the most eccentric presentations each fashion week. The fall/winter collection did not disappoint in that regard. An interactive experience where photographers and invitees could have the models pose and speak with them. The presentation featured everything from readings on new age philosophies to bottled Eckhaus Latta branded gin cocktails.
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This was the first Y-3 show I’ve had the pleasure of seeing in person. The location was an abandoned factory space in the lower east side which provided a historical contrast from this futurist sportswear by Yohji Yamamoto. In the collection there’s pretty straight on takes on sportswear staples such as track jackets and sneakers but my favorite pieces were the ones that blended signature Yohji shapes with synthetic materials and minimal Y-3 branding.
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Do you remember smoking weed, drinking beer, eating Doritos and playing N64 in your high school friend’s basement? Highland presented guests of their FW13 collection with an experience that was quite similar to those carefree days of youth. The set was littered with bongs, snacks, a PBR beer pyramid and shag carpeting and admist the chaos were models donning the collection of jackets, sweaters, branded t-shirts and jeans. The interactive presentation was a reflection of the brand’s approach, smartly and subversively using the wasteland of American suburbia as a platform for refined streetwear. While Highland make not be a household name in the US menswear market yet, this presentation exemplified how the brand is quickly building steady buzz in New York.
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At their core, runway shows are about creating a spectacle and Hood by Air certainly achieved that with their Fall/Winer 2013 Runway show ‘Boychild’ at Milk Studios. The brand has existed since 2007 but really blew up in 2012 with a little help from celebrity trendsetters such as Rihanna. An array of looks came marching down the lazer-lit runway, set to a pulsing dystopian soundtrack. They ranged from simple screen printed t-shirts to more elaborate pieces such as a zippered neoprene jacket. What I appreciate most about Hood by Air is that the brand is an honest and natural extension of the lifestyle that designer Shane Oliver and his cohorts have been leading for years. Don’t be suprised to even see the wildest HBA pieces at the next GHE20G0THIK party or in basement clubs and warehouse raves throughout New York. Self proclaimed fashion killa A$AP Rocky made an appearance closing out the show to the applause and cheering of many in the audience. 2013 promises to be an even bigger and better year for Hood by Air.
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