Believe it or not we have reached our 200th post here at Third Looks. A heartfelt thank you goes out to everyone who has contributed, supported or simply enjoyed this blog since it’s humble beginnings over a year ago. I couldn’t think of a better way to commemorate this milestone than presenting this comprehensive Maison Martin Margiela Reference Guide. A friend of mine is a Margiela devotee and has spent ample time and effort putting together this hefty reference guide on all things Maison Martin Margiela.
The Maison Martin Margiela Reference Guide
Information about Martin Margiela, and Maison Martin Margiela, is everywhere, but a proper reference does not exist. With respect to Martin Margiela’s clear wishes to remain anonymous, and his continued silence after his retirement, I have omitted most personal information about him. This is a long read meant as a reference, not an article. If you are coming in totally blind, feel free to read the following short articles to get oriented:
Click through the jump for the Reference Guide
My objective with the Style Profiles here on Third Looks is to provide visitors a digital glimpse into how real people dress. I take pride in the fact that each person I profile has vastly different tastes and wardrobes. Everytime I run into JonCarlo I notice that he is always in a new fresh look.
I met JonCarlo through my friend Scott shortly about two years ago. Since then I’ve come to discover that he is someone who is not only knowlegable about fashion , but spends the time and money to collect the pieces he loves. Visting his East Village apartment I was quite impressed by the large wardrobe he had put together with a full assortment of eyewear, coats, shirts, trousers, and jackets. I respect that JonCarlo bravely buys pieces that catch his eye and finds ways to work them into his seasonal outfits. He has a great sensibility on what pieces are worth buying and an ability to intuitively put it all together. Keep in mind that this style profile is only a small part of the sizable personal mensewar archive that JonCarlo has put together over the last ten years.
New Era Yankee Fitted Cap
Oliver Peoples Sunglasses
Club Monaco Cashmere Thermal Sweats
Raf Simons FW09 Coat
Dries Van Noten double layer button up shirt
Slow & Steady Wins the Race 4-sided bag
Albertus Swanepoel hat (navy)
Oliver Peoples Sunglasses
Dries Van Noten Military Jacket
Won Hundred Crewneck T-Shirt
3.1 Philip Lim Elastic Waist Trousers
Converse Chuck Taylor Sneakers
New Era Oakland A’s Fitted Cap
Oliver Peoples Sunglasses
Philip Lim 3.1 Blouson Jacket
Shaun Samson shirt
Giuliano Fujiwara Shorts
Comme des Garcon x Heschung Shoes
Albertus Swanepoel (Black)
Oliver Peoples Sunglasses
N.Hoolywood F/W 10 Military Trench Coat
Maison Martin Margiela Coat Scarf
J.Sabatino Striped Mohair Sweater
Paul Smith High Waist Banded Trousers
Pierre Hardy backpack
How did your interest in fashion develop?
It developed at a really early age. I spent alot of time looking at magazines like Sassy, Town & Country, YM and Details. That’s when I discovered designers like Claude Montana, Byron Lars, Mugler & Todd Oldham. I remember waking up every Saturday morning to watch CNN Style w/ Elsa Klensch & being given an early education on the Antwerp six, Yasmeen Ghauri and Orlando Pita. When I was old enough to get my license, I started going to Little Tokyo and buying magazines then heading to vintage & thrift stores to re-create looks that inspired me. I always loved dressing up as a form of self-expression.
I was definitely that kid in school where you would be like WTF?!? The other kids around me were interested in group sports, and I was never good at that. What was natural to me was dancing & dressing up for school. I’m not going to lie, 90′s hip hop and R&B had a huge influence on my style.
What was the connection with music and style?
I was a huge fan of groups like New Edition, Jodeci and Troop and I thought they had an amazing sense of style. There was a soul in the way they dressed and the music they made and it really appealed to me. I remember saving up minimum wage so I can buy an outfit that made me look like Marcus Graham in Boomerang and then show up to a dance doing the full routine to House Party. There was a lot pleats, rayon, silks, turtlenecks and chains in my day to day.
How do you shop?
I shop based on silhouette, construction and texture. I feel like I’ve been buying a lot of oversized and fuller cuts in the last 2 years, pants & outerwear wise. I’ve also picked up a lot of raw silk and rayon which have a lot of movement and that drape real well. I’m all about a relaxed fit. I want it to feel like I’m wearing the true definition on lounge wear; pajamas.
What do you want to see more of in menswear.
Risk. Instead of designing for the mass market or whats marketable, I want them to design based upon their initial inspiraitons. The inspiration and passion they’ve had since the initial stages of them wanting to design. I want more designers to essentially embrace that they ARE designers and for them to create something from their own personal aesthetic and points of reference.
What do you wish you could wear? Are there looks you appreciate but don’t buy for yourself?
I wish I could do full-on Damir Doma looks. I’ve always wanted to pull off the type of looks by Damir or Siki Im because there’s a romance to what they do aesthetically and it isn’t so severe. For me and knowing my personal style I could never do that look head to toe. I really appreciate it but I know my limitations. I would REALLY love to wear voluminous robes made of linen & copious amounts of draping and look like a citizen of Tatooine but I live on Earth.
What are designers are you excited about every season?
Dries Van Noten, Shaun Samson, N.Hoolywood, Christophe Lemaire, Umit Benan, 3.1 Philip Lim, and I’ve been loving Paul Smith mainline lately.
JonCarlo Domingo currently works as the East Coast Brand Ambassador for Oliver Peoples and you might see him on his frequent travels throughout the region.
Photography by Rocky Li
H&M their collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela on Novemember 15th. There was a great deal of controversy regarding the original announcement of this capsule collection given Margiela’s elusive brand history. It’s said that the products are expected to be re-issues of key archival menswear pieces.
“The collection is a series of re-editions, featuring Maison Martin Margiela garments from various seasons since menswear was introduced in 1998. Each garment will be labelled detailing the year and season of origin. The re-editions have been selected not only because of their importance in the history of the Maison, but so the H&M collection will comprise a full wardrobe for men. There are re-editions of coats, suits, denim, shirts, sweaters, shoes and accessories.”
When I showed my friend Tim the article he reminded me of a comment he had made on facebook on June 12th, shortly after the initial product announcement.
“It would be awesome if they did their own past products. A luxury brand that used to stand for anonymity and mystery – with its own “Replica” line (22, I think) – doing a “Replica” series of their own product with a company (H&M) synonymous with mass access/appeal/production, using their most hyped product line (collaborations). It would put a nail in the coffin of MMM brand’s past in a quintessentially Margiela manner: cerebral, pretentious, clever to a fault, and hilarious.”
Suffice to say , most my friends are fashion nerds. We will try to bring you a honest assesement of the line as it develops, though my personal gut feeling is that it will be disappointing as alot of MMM’s appeal is in the treatments, production processes and quality of the materials.
Join our Facebook Page so you can join in on the fun and experience first hand how nerdy we get about fashion.
via GQ UK
Shirt : Vintage Lacoste, Internet Fame T-shirt
Shorts : Vintage
Shoes : Maison Martin Margiela Replica Sneakers
Aloha Rag is having a sample sale tomorrow and Saturday. As one of the better shops in New York expect to find both mens and womens items marked down to 80% off. Expect to start seeing sample sale updates on the regular here.
‘Happy Victims, You Are What You Buy’ by Kyoichi Tsuzuki
Seigensha, Kyoto, 2008. 178 pp., 85 color illustrations, 10½x8″.
Happy Victims is a photo book that profiles Japanese individuals who are obsessed with one particular designer. In the book collectors range from a Buddhist monk who visits his Tokyo condo filled with Comme des Garcons religiously once a month to an instructor at Bunka Fashion College who goes by the name “Maestro Margiela”. The caption underneath his portrait proclaims that he would rather eat out than risk infusing his clothes with cooking smells so he keeps only eardrops in the refrigerator and has never used the cooker.
The book is part of a large body of photojournalist work by Tsuzuki that includes his seminal work ‘Tokyo Style.’ Looking through Happy Victims sheds light on the sacrifices and eccentricities of the obessed Japanese fashion collector. Fashion often criticized for only highlighting the glitz and glamor of the runway; this book only strives to capture clothes in their most honest of settings : the home.
You can purchase a copy HERE
With summer weather approaching the search for the perfect sneaker is on. Here are a few suggestions for hot days ahead.
Undercover SS12 Low-Top Sneaker
Undercover provides their take on the Stan Smith for the SS12 season. An easy clean design accented by a detailed embroidery around the ankle.
£210 at Oki Ni
Maison Martin Margiela Painted Germany Army Trainers (GAT)
With a linen upper covered in white paint, these German Army Trainers stand out from the usual MMM GATs in a way that is tasteful and eye-catching.
$495 at Aloha Rag
Giuliano Fujiwara High Top Sneaker
Clean lines and mixed materials make this sneaker an attention grabbing choice for Summer. Made in the same factories as Raf Simons and common projects these sneakers are made to last.
$620 at The Corner
New Balance M1300LG-Grey
New Balances may be approaching played-out status but if you’re set on a pair you might as well go with one of the best models the 1300. This understated light grey colorway is sure to match plenty of items in your wardrobe.
$130 via Kith
Ann Demeulemeester Calf-leather Wrap-lace Trainers
The quintessential Ann D sneaker in a beautiful calf leather material. These are sure to go with jeans or trousers and can be dressed up or down with ease.
$415 via re.porter