Fanny Fournier @ MC² NYC
Styling by Rocky Li
Photography by Paul Jung
Make Up by Ai Yokomizo
Hair by Jennifer Covington-Bowers
Assistant Director Ducminh Nguyen
First Camera François Lebeau
I linked up with the very talented Paul Jung on this Rothko themed shoot. Thanks to Nouveau-PR and Omen PR for allowing me to style this with their pulls. The result were these fun short animated gifs starring the wonderful Fanny Fauier.
More the entire set after the jump
This was the first Y-3 show I’ve had the pleasure of seeing in person. The location was an abandoned factory space in the lower east side which provided a historical contrast from this futurist sportswear by Yohji Yamamoto. In the collection there’s pretty straight on takes on sportswear staples such as track jackets and sneakers but my favorite pieces were the ones that blended signature Yohji shapes with synthetic materials and minimal Y-3 branding.
More after the jump
Alexander Wang’s SS13 had all the markings of a huge NYFW production : top-shelf models, front-row celebrities and a show finale that literally glowed in the dark. Third Looks was on hand to give you a glimpse of the backstage madness.
More photos from the show can be seen on VFILES
Photography by Rocky Li
I respect girls who are are about to look great AND express aspects of their personality through their personal style. Gia is a fellow Parson’s graduate and she currently works as a PR coordinator for Comme des Garcons which is doubtlessly a dream job for many. I implicitly trust her taste when it comes to womenswear and I think she has an incredible eye for aesthetics in general (not just when it comes to fashion). While she is often low-key and subtle with the way she dresses, Gia can also put together looks that break necks with ease.
How does everyday life in New York inspire the way you dress?
I pay more attention to what guys wear in this city. It just looks so much more comfortable and the silhouettes are classic. Guys in New York aren’t afraid to play around with prints and colors and I do take inspiration from that. There’s so many visuals in New York that make me take notice : it could be anything from street art to cereal packaging. I recently bought a few pairs of Happy Socks besides I liked the colors in the snack of aisle of M2M (ie my favorite, Pocky). Of course I had get red and white socks as well before going to the Yayoi Kusama exhibit at the Whitney.
When did you start buying designer clothes?
The turning point was when I started working at Assin in Melbourne which is an amazing store that stocked Ann D, Dior Homme, Margiela, Junya, Number (N)ine, Haider Ackerman.
I learned a lot about menswear there and I managed to come away with some great pieces from my time there.
Junya Watanabe SS2012 Cropped Rider Jacket
Junya Watanabe SS2012 Floral Print Dress
Junya Watanabe SS2012 Boots
You own some wilder pieces as well as some solid basics. How do you balance practicality and comfort against aesthetics in your wardrobe?
My actual clothing that I wear day to day has to be very comfortable. I walk around alot and I don’t want anything that’s too restricting. In general my style is pretty basic but I like statement pieces to mix it up. One thing I don’t compromise on is my rings. I never take them off and they feel so a part of me that I don’t even notice them there.
Comme des Garcon SHIRT SS2012 Strawberry Print
Comme des Garcon Homme Plus Cropped Jeans
Comme des Garcon Sneakers (No vis)
Junya Watanabe Shirt
J Crew Floral-Print Trousers
Junya Watanabe SS2012 Boots
What style inspirations do you go back to again and again?
The anime Nana.
Gogo from Kill Bill.
Nujabes music for the mood it creates.
Gregg Araki films.
You have some men’s pieces you wear reguarly. How do you work them into your outfits?
I’ve really gotten into just wearing plain white and/or black mens undershirts recently, like the Supreme/Hanes shirt or Bread & Boxers (worn in look 1). I like the simplicity of the cut and the casual feeling it provides. I like oversized cuts – button downs, like my new favorite is my new strawberry CdG SHIRT button down. Another favorite is my Rick Owens DRKSHW sleeveless hoodie that I’ve had since 2008 that I basically live in. I also frequently wear my Lanvin Hi-Tops and Homme Plus denim cropped pants. I just treat them like normal clothes and I appreciate they are less fussy than women’s pieces.
Photos by Rocky Li
Top : Raf Simons SS05 Sleeveless , Number (N)ine Tank
Jeans : Robert Geller
Accessories : Robert Geller Sunglasses, Braided Bracelet, Vintage Japanese Sterling Silver bead bracelet
Shoes : Converse Chuck Taylor
When did you first start becoming interested in fashion and how did you develop that interest into a career?
I first became interested in style through music and skating. I have always drawn and been interested in design, my mom still has these line sheets I would make for skate brands I wanted to start when I was 13. I first got into the fashion industry managing a punk fashion store in DC called Commander Salamander.
I knew I wanted to work in fashion and I figured the best way to get started would be work at a cool shop. I kept working my way up through retail: buying (Deep Sleep Philadlphia, Urban Outfitters) and managing(Denim Bar Arlington. Odin New York) I was learning more about fashion and the business side of it over the years before I began working with Robert Geller as his design assistant. I now work freelance doing styling/wardrobe, graphic design and consulting. Working through the fashion industry the way I did I gained so much hands on experience working with every aspect of the business I’m very fortunate for this.
The greatest experience I’ve gained is through my time with Robert Geller it was an unparalleled experience: the hands on work, the nuances of design, the work required to succeed, the amount I learned was amazing. Working with some one like that in a close small team is something I felt helped me to grow so much.
Jacket : Raf Simons SS08 Blazer
Top : Robert Geller Button Up, Rick Owens Tank
Jeans : Robert Geller
Shoes : Robert Geller x Common Projects Zip Boot
How would you describe your personal style philosophy and the influences that helped inspire it.
I guess the philosophy to my personal style is just founded on wearing things I like by designers who’s aesthetic and ethos appeal to me. I have to believe in something to wear it, I don’t just wear a piece of clothing because it’s cool, that means nothing to me.
I need to feel a connection to the designer, their inspiration, and the construction. All of it is important. The influences of my personal style are ’80’s DC hardcore kids and Japanese street style. I’m pretty understated in my own look to be honest. I pretty much only wear jeans, tee shirts, sneakers and jackets.
You’ve worked as a stylist on many different jobs, what unique challenges does styling present? How has it broadened your perspectives on fashion?
The unique challenges of doing styling jobs are the various demands. It’s a very demanding profession with very little room for error on many jobs. Your working with time constraints, budget constraints, direction coming from different angles whether it be management, production, photographer/director, talent or your self. It’s a balancing act for sure. Styling requires you to always be on your toes and adjust your plan on the fly: concepts, dates these things all change out of the blue you have to be ready you can’t get flustered.
Having worked as a buyer and in sales I guess I’ve had a broad perspective on fashion. Working in different roles you see how different people view and react to fashion reguarly; those jobs helped give me a big upper hand in styling.
Do you do most of your clothes shopping online or in person?
I actually don’t shop much, I think I buy myself more stuff for soccer than clothing for every day. I guess I do buy more in person I like to have that tactile experience of handling the garments myself as well as the instant satisfaction of taking it home then and there.
Jacket : Robert Geller Moto Vest
Tops : Ann Demeulemeester Sleeveless Tee, Number (N)ine Tank
Jeans : UU Uniqlo x Undercover
Accesories : Vintage Japanese Sterling Silver bead bracelet , Braided Bracelet
Shoes : Undercover Chucks
How has your experience as a designer affected how you shop for yourself?
Being a designer affected my shopping a lot, it made me not want to at all really. I wouldn’t say it jaded me at all but I was fortunate to be able have many of the things I wanted because well we made them at Robert Geller. Designing really made me even pickier then I already was about clothing.
Top : Raf Simons AW04-05 Crewneck
Bottoms : Robert Geller Shorts
Shoes : Nike x Undercover Gyakusou Lunarspider +
Accessories : Robert Geller Sunglasses, Ann Demeulemeester Stud Belt, Nike ACG Camo Backpack, Vintage Japanese Sterling Silver bead bracelet , Braided Bracelet
What do you think about the current state of men’s fashion?
I think the current state of men’s fashion is just that its not inspiring. It’s been dull to me, the excitement and youth is gone. Men’s fashion has become a hashtag, an internet idea. Menswear to so many is based on what’s safe (what’s now considered cool): plaid button ups, chinos, loafers etc. Its not about ideas, fits or materials. The excitement of the early 2000’s when menswear really started to take risks and have a youthful edge is gone.
The other big issue I’ve been noticing is that there is so little middle ground, the avant garde have gone way out there and the heritage aesthetics has gotten to be a caricatures of themselves. In the early 2000s you saw Helmut, Heidi, and Raf really intertwine the avante garde design with classic beautiful menswear. For example when Helmut made a perfectly tailored black blazer with elastic bondage straps. That subtlety is gone and I miss it. The mystery and subversion is isn’t there any more, both camps are just trying to hit you over the head with their extremes.
GHSTS of NY.
Special Thanks to Paul Wax for the photography.
Words by Rocky Li
Photography by Paul Wax
‘Happy Victims, You Are What You Buy’ by Kyoichi Tsuzuki
Seigensha, Kyoto, 2008. 178 pp., 85 color illustrations, 10½x8″.
Happy Victims is a photo book that profiles Japanese individuals who are obsessed with one particular designer. In the book collectors range from a Buddhist monk who visits his Tokyo condo filled with Comme des Garcons religiously once a month to an instructor at Bunka Fashion College who goes by the name “Maestro Margiela”. The caption underneath his portrait proclaims that he would rather eat out than risk infusing his clothes with cooking smells so he keeps only eardrops in the refrigerator and has never used the cooker.
The book is part of a large body of photojournalist work by Tsuzuki that includes his seminal work ‘Tokyo Style.’ Looking through Happy Victims sheds light on the sacrifices and eccentricities of the obessed Japanese fashion collector. Fashion often criticized for only highlighting the glitz and glamor of the runway; this book only strives to capture clothes in their most honest of settings : the home.
You can purchase a copy HERE
The long-standing rumors have been confirmed. Raf Simons is in at Dior. I have mixed feelings about this appointment but I will reserve judgement until his first haute couture collection is shown in July. Long live Raf Simons.
Below passage via the New York Times
Dior Selects Raf Simons to Replace John Galliano
by Cathy Horyn
On Wednesday, the Paris fashion house will announce that Raf Simons will take over immediately as artistic director, replacing John Galliano, who was fired from Dior last year following anti-Semitic remarks. His first collection is planned for July at the fall haute couture shows.
The choice of Mr. Simons follows more than a year of discussions and apparent soul searching by Dior and its boss, Bernard Arnault, who is chairman of LVMH, about the ideal person to give creative direction to the 66-year-old luxury brand.
In an interview Monday, Mr. Simons expressed delight at the appointment. “The first time I heard about the Dior position,” he said, “I thought, ‘This feels right.’ ”
Read the entire article in the NYT.