Currently viewing the tag: "Ann Demeulemeester"

winter 2012 boots 2 6 Boot Recommendations for WinterGuidi Cordovan Cont Boots 

£873 via LN-CC

Guidi provides their take on the hiking boot, adding luxe horse leather on the upper and placing it on a Vibram sole. These shoes are carefully crafted and will break necks in person. The details include lightly rusted eyelets on the laces and a padded leather section at the back of the boot. Owning these boots will open up so many styling possibilities and I would recommend these as a great gateway drug into the Guidi brand.  At over £800 these boots are by no means cheap but they are worth any penny to a discerning menswear connoisseur. winter 2012 boots 3 6 Boot Recommendations for Winter

Diemme Roccia Vet Vesuvio Suede Deep Hiking Boot
£295USD via Haven

Monochrome in color and an easy addition to any wardrobe these made in Italy hiking boots exemplify the combination of Diemme’s heritage with modern convenience. Buttery black suede atop alightweight sole that uses Italian-made grey middle sole in tandem with a Vibram Lisk bottom sheet. Great ankle support and padded internally for your pleasure these are sure to see plenty of wear this winter.

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Ann Demeulemeester Scamosciato AW12 Engineer Boots in Black
$538 via LN-CC

Ann D always comes correct in the footwear department and these Engineer boots are no exception. Made from black suede and featuring a reinforced heel panel, these fasten along the front upper with a black metal zip. Stacked wooden lower with a black rubber composite sole provide the base for this boot.

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Cash CA x Trickers Padded Top Derby Boot in Navy/Tan
81,000 yen via Heather Grey Wall

A match that was destined to happen, the good folks at outerwear experts Cash CA collaborate with UK-based trickers to execute this beautiful Derby Boot. The Derby Boot really hit it’s stride in 2012 with everyone putting out their own iteration , in my eyes though this is one of the top models to come out all year. The tan really works against the navy suede and even the laces compliment the boot perfectly.

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Ann Demeulemeester Black & Cognac Leather Ankle Boots                                                                                                                     $538CND via SSENSE

Ankle high pebbled leather boots with a side zip, ankle strap and cognac trim at the collar. The spark of color adds a luxe feel to this pair. These boots should last you years with proper care and can be work with anything from camel coats to leather riders. Snag these on heavy discount while you still can.

winter 2012 boots 1 6 Boot Recommendations for Winter

Undercover J6FO3 8-Hole Worker Boot 
$815USD via Haven

Jun Takahashi puts his touch on this Worker Boot adding a front zipper and tonal side navy suede panel to go with the black leather upper. A perfect shape to wear with jeans or cropped pants this boots are incognito enough to wear daily but have enough details to never be boring. Heavy duty metal hardware accents the militaristic lacing of this boot.

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style profile paul 1 Style Profile: Paul

My style has been under constant evolution since I first got interested in fashion almost a decade ago. It has been a challenge working in pieces from so many different brands into my wardrobe and I always appreciate others who can dress across brands and flip it their own way. Paul is a fashion student at F.I.T and he is someone who definitely owns amazing pieces but the way he wears them is all his own. For men especially I think it is key to look and feel comfortable in the clothes you own. When it comes to the Style Profiles on Third Looks, I select people who dress according to their own vision. I hope that this site helps people find their own style and empowers them to make informed fashion decisions.

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Look 1
Vintage Snapback Hat
Jil Sander Floral T-Shirt
H&M Shorts
Raf Simons Derby Shoes

How’d you first get interested in fashion and how has your style evolved over time?

I liked clothes from an early age. I even went through my older sister copies of Vogue when I was younger. Then I got into skateboarding, wearing tapered baggy cords with Sal 23 or fatigue cargo pants and some Vans Old Skools. I would go through a copy of Transworld and see all those cool printed t-shirts and I was really into that, especially Hook-Ups. In early 2000 I came across Graniph T-shirts, which was a Japanese design company. I was looking into that and found an online forum called Superfuture and at the same time I was working for a high end retail store in NYC. These combined factors opened more doors to what’s out there. As I got older I transitioned to a more fitted and minimal style (slim wool trousers and dressy shoes). Despite that I always seem to go back to buying sneakers. My style changes now and then but I always reflect on my old style and mix it with my current style.

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Look 2
Supreme x Champion Hooded Coach Jacket
Rick Owens T-Shirt
Ann Demeulemeester Trousers
Rick Owens Sneakers

How has your education as a designer changed your outlook on clothes and shopping?

Fashion education made me more critical. I have an idea of how clothes are sewn together so when I see something made poorly, that just raises a red flag. Sometimes it is the complete opposite, I would see something so interesting and well made that I have to figure out how it was made. It can really help you realize some people are creative geniuses.

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style profile charly 14 Style Profile: Charly

Our sense of style is rarely stagnant; I love that as we evolve and change as people, our wardrobes quickly follow. Since I’ve met Charly he has added many pieces that compliment his lifestyle and changing physique. While fashion is often focused on the concept of an “ideal” physique it is more inspiring for me to see people who are comfortable in their clothes. Rick Owens once said “Working out is modern couture”. Perhaps the larger lesson from that statement is that clothes shouldn’t dictate your lifestyle, your lifestyle should dictate the clothes you choose.  Some of you may be familar with Charly from his role as community manager with TOJ (purveyors of fine leather jackets)  but this feature should provide you plenty more insight into his personal style.

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Look 1
Rick Owens Intarsia mid-collar leather jacket
Rick Owens sweat pants
Custom made T-Shirt
Ann Demeulemeester combat boots

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When did you begin caring about clothes and how has your style evolved since then?

The first time I began caring about clothes was in middle school when I got my first pair of Jordans and then Timberlands during my high school year in Philadelphia.  This evolved into brands like Akademiks and Enyce paired with a throwback and a pair of AF1′s on my feet. Then in college, I got my first glimpse into some quality clothing by being introduced to Japanese raw denim. Since then, my style has just been whatever I feel comfortable in and silhouette that I want to achieve.

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Look 2
Rick Owens Intarsia mid-collar black leather jacket
Custom made T-shirt
Rick Owens DRKSHDW combo sweat pants
Rick Owens Ankle Boots

Explain how you first got into weight lifting and how it has impacted the way you shop for clothes.

Coming into my junior year of high school, I was 5’11″ and whopping 120-125 pounds of skin and bones. I didn’t like the way I looked and wanted to change my physique, so like most boys my age, I started to do a bit of lifting – nothing serious. Then as I got into college, my lifting intensified. By then it was part of my lifestyle instead of a chore, but I still had no clear path for the lifting. It did affect the way I shopped for clothing because my arms, legs, and butt would not fit into some of the skinnier pieces I wanted to wear. However, I kept that in mind and made sure I stayed a certain weight (170-175) so I could still fit into a lot of the clothing I liked. About 2 years ago, I got hooked onto powerlifting and that’s when my outlook on training and clothing changed. I realized that powerlifting made me happier than any piece of clothing would. Since then my training has took priority to fitting into clothing.

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Much more after the jump, click through.

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style profile joey 2 Style Profile : Joey Keefer
Joey Keefer is someone I’ve known and respected for some time. Even though he’s not a native New Yorker, he fits in perfectly in this city because he has a no-bullshit sensibility about him. A former designer at Robert Geller, his experiences in the fashion industry have allowed him to understand the American menswear business from the perspectives of buyer, designer and stylist. I always admire those who use fashion as a reflection of their interests and experiences ; Joey definitely does that through the looks he put together with his favorite pieces. Below I pose some questions Joey about his experiences in the menswear industry.

style profile joey 1 Style Profile : Joey Keefer

Look 1

Top : Raf Simons SS05 Sleeveless , Number (N)ine Tank
Jeans : Robert Geller
Accessories : Robert Geller Sunglasses, Braided Bracelet, Vintage Japanese Sterling Silver bead bracelet
Shoes : Converse Chuck Taylor

When did you first start becoming interested in fashion and how did you develop that interest into a career?

I first became interested in style through music and skating. I have always drawn and been interested in design, my mom still has these line sheets I would make for skate brands I wanted to start when I was 13. I first got into the fashion industry managing a punk fashion store in DC called Commander Salamander.

I knew I wanted to work in fashion and I figured the best way to get started would be work at a cool shop. I kept working my way up through retail: buying (Deep Sleep Philadlphia, Urban Outfitters) and managing(Denim Bar Arlington. Odin New York) I was learning more about fashion and the business side of it over the years before I began working with Robert Geller as his design assistant. I now work freelance doing styling/wardrobe, graphic design and consulting. Working through the fashion industry the way I did I gained so much hands on experience working with every aspect of the business I’m very fortunate for this.

The greatest experience I’ve gained is through my time with Robert Geller it was an unparalleled experience: the hands on work, the nuances of design, the work required to succeed, the amount I learned was amazing. Working with some one like that in a close small team is something I felt helped me to grow so much.

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Look 2

Jacket : Raf Simons SS08 Blazer
Top : Robert Geller Button Up, Rick Owens Tank
Jeans : Robert Geller
Shoes : Robert Geller x Common Projects Zip Boot

How would you describe your personal style philosophy and the influences that helped inspire it.

I guess the philosophy to my personal style is just founded on wearing things I like by designers who’s aesthetic and ethos appeal to me. I have to believe in something to wear it, I don’t just wear a piece of clothing because it’s cool, that means nothing to me.

I need to feel a connection to the designer, their inspiration, and the construction. All of it is important. The influences of my personal style are ’80′s DC hardcore kids and Japanese street style. I’m pretty understated in my own look to be honest. I pretty much only wear jeans, tee shirts, sneakers and jackets.

You’ve worked as a stylist on many different jobs, what unique challenges does styling present? How has it broadened your perspectives on fashion?

The unique challenges of doing styling jobs are the various demands. It’s a very demanding profession with very little room for error on many jobs. Your working with time constraints, budget constraints, direction coming from different angles whether it be management, production, photographer/director, talent or your self. It’s a balancing act for sure. Styling requires you to always be on your toes and adjust your plan on the fly: concepts, dates these things all change out of the blue you have to be ready you can’t get flustered.

Having worked as a buyer and in sales I guess I’ve had a broad perspective on fashion. Working in different roles you see how different people view and react to fashion reguarly; those jobs helped give me a big upper hand in styling.

Do you do most of your clothes shopping online or in person?

I actually don’t shop much, I think I buy myself more stuff for soccer than clothing for every day. I guess I do buy more in person I like to have that tactile experience of handling the garments myself as well as the instant satisfaction of taking it home then and there.

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Look 3

Jacket : Robert Geller Moto Vest
Tops : Ann Demeulemeester Sleeveless Tee, Number (N)ine Tank
Jeans : UU Uniqlo x Undercover
Accesories : Vintage Japanese Sterling Silver bead bracelet , Braided Bracelet
Shoes : Undercover Chucks

How has your experience as a designer affected how you shop for yourself?

Being a designer affected my shopping a lot, it made me not want to at all really. I wouldn’t say it jaded me at all but I was fortunate to be able have many of the things I wanted because well we made them at Robert Geller. Designing really made me even pickier then I already was about clothing.

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Look 4
Top : Raf Simons AW04-05 Crewneck
Bottoms : Robert Geller Shorts
Shoes : Nike x Undercover Gyakusou Lunarspider +
Accessories : Robert Geller Sunglasses, Ann Demeulemeester Stud Belt, Nike ACG Camo Backpack, Vintage Japanese Sterling Silver bead bracelet , Braided Bracelet

What do you think about the current state of men’s fashion?

I think the current state of men’s fashion is just that its not inspiring. It’s been dull to me, the excitement and youth is gone. Men’s fashion has become a hashtag, an internet idea. Menswear to so many is based on what’s safe (what’s now considered cool): plaid button ups, chinos, loafers etc. Its not about ideas, fits or materials. The excitement of the early 2000′s when menswear really started to take risks and have a youthful edge is gone.

The other big issue I’ve been noticing is that there is so little middle ground, the avant garde have gone way out there and the heritage aesthetics has gotten to be a caricatures of themselves. In the early 2000s you saw Helmut, Heidi, and Raf really intertwine the avante garde design with classic beautiful menswear. For example when Helmut made a perfectly tailored black blazer with elastic bondage straps. That subtlety is gone and I miss it. The mystery and subversion is isn’t there any more, both camps are just trying to hit you over the head with their extremes.

style profile joey 9 Style Profile : Joey Keefer
Stay in touch with Joey on his Tumblr and through his venture
GHSTS of NY.

Special Thanks to Paul Wax for the photography.

Words by Rocky Li
Photography by Paul Wax

thirdlooks derek 24 Style Profile : Derek

Derek has one of the most insane wardrobes of anyone I know. I have witnessed him acquire items he has searched high and low for; slowly crossing items off his list of coveted grails.  More than just being the biggest Ann Demeulemeester enthusiast I know; Derek seamlessly works in varied brands with an eye for mood, texture and proportion. I visited him recently and photographed some of his all-time favorite pieces and looks.

You can find Derek holding it down at Atelier New York.

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This is my interpretation of iconic Ann Demeulemeester. When I don this I feel delightfully anachronistic, romantic, even a little bit rebellious. The rebel prince, I think. The contrast of wool and cotton on top and all leather on the bottom is essential in conveying this. With tailored trousers and a shoe it becomes dull, ethical, stiff. That couldn’t be farther from me.

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This look brings forth my obsession with America, with rock n roll. I think of the beats, of open sky and endless road. I feel and externalize the death of old America, its evils, its mysticism, its hope. The Frontierman. Yeah, that’s him there, searching for new hopes in faint ideas.

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This is the other half of Ann: the nonchalant, even lazy, street rat. This is poete maudite, dreaming and believing.

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This jacket is oldish, but reeks of the future. It’s completely twisted and lopsided, and sparkles in the light. I miss this lux street attitude in Ann’s design.

thirdlooks derek 20 Style Profile : Derek

“As long as the world shall last there will be wrongs, and if no man objected and no man rebelled, those wrongs would last forever.” - Clarence Darrow

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ANN DEMEULEMEESTER COTTON/METAL TAILORED JACKET

I think it sings a seminal Ann jacket tune – trans-seasonal nubby cotton/metal textile, quiet asymmetric cut, peak lapel with hidden buttons. The metal cleverly holds wrinkles nicely, and it’s taken on serious character since I received it. Karlo Steel gave me this jacket as a gift from his personal wardrobe, “I think there’s something vampiric about it.”

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NUMBER (N)INE COW LEATHER JACKET

From the masterpiece FW08 My Own Private Portland collection. I never knew this jacket existed in black until last winter, as each one I handled was caramel leather with chocolate topstitching. So when I found this I bought it instantly. It’s design and cut feel made for me. The thick, matte cow leather has an ineffable patina. If the world fell into anarchy, i’d grab this and run.

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ANN DEMEULEMEESTER COTTON WAISTCOAT

If you’re going to have only one Ann waistcoat, this is the obvious choice. A slightly elongated take on a traditional waistcoat with signature double straps at the back. This particular one is made in a shadowstripe cotton. I like to wear it in the summer without anything underneath.

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RICK OWENS UNSTABLE COTTON T-SHIRT
No one makes a t-shirt like Rick Owens, by now everyone should consider any t-shirt against his as the standard for comparison. I prefer them in uberdelicate sheer cotton and long long long. The more holes, the better.

NUMBER (N)INE COTTON JEANS
I’ve shredded these over and over again, but will never get rid of them. I’ll keep patching them up until they completely fall apart, and then i’ll mount them on my wall forever after. I’ve yet to use the suspender loops, though.

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ANN DEMEULEMEESTER CASHMERE/SILK COLLARED T-SHIRT
Unbelievably delicious fabric, terribly thin, new holes showing up almost every time I wear it. I got this one at Atelier. It’s still my favorite Ann top in my closet: the floppy collar, dropped shoulder, and long sleeves strike the perfect lazy elegance balance.

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ANN DEMEULEMEESTER COTTON/CASHMERE TWISTED DOUBLE LAYER KNIT
This is a recent acquisition, but something i’ve lusted over unabashedly for five years, unable to procure one until just a few weeks ago. It’s masterfully pre-twisted design and contrasting interior color trump all other double-layer pieces i’ve handled. Another vital representation of Ann’s sloppy punk-poet muse.

thirdlooks derek 7 Style Profile : Derek

WERKSTATT MUNCHEN RINGS
I wear these every single day; this is the extent of my finger jewelry. They are simple, masculine, and timeless.

thirdlooks derek 8 Style Profile : Derek

MA+ COW LEATHER ENVELOPE BAG
A completely anachronistic shape, and almost non-functional for an everyday runaround. Perfect for a book, a notebook, and a pen.

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER WOOL/SILK CAP
My first and only Ann cap. I get offers for this on the street, but it’ll be buried with me.

NUMBER (N)INE BEAVER HAT
Call me Amish, call me Hasidic, it’s all good. And oh so warm.

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER LEATHER BELT
My one and only. It’s very long and dangles like a tail from my hip.

MA+ COW LEATHER WALLET

NUMBER (N)INE JACKIE O’S Sunglasses
These are obnoxious, and I couldn’t be happier. I’ve dropped them a hundred times.

thirdlooks derek 9 Style Profile : Derek

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER OILED SUEDE HI-TOPS
My first and only pair of her trainers. They had some buckles for the shaft but I took them off after a week or two. The wide eyelets and double zippers are paramount to both style and function.

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CARPE DIEM REVERSE COW ANKLE BOOT
One thing i’ll never, ever understand is how people keep their shoes looking new. I got these over 4 years ago and I think I wore them for almost two straight years when I first got them. They’re still the best made and most comfortable shoes i’ve ever owned. They still feel as good as the day I bought them every time I wear them. The patina is perfect: rugged and lush, bruised, irreplicable.

Photography by Rocky Li

With summer weather approaching the search for the perfect sneaker is on. Here are a few suggestions for hot days ahead.

Undercover SS12 Low-Top Sneaker

undercover low top sneaker Spring/Summer 12 Mens Sneaker Recommendations

Undercover provides their take on the Stan Smith for the SS12 season. An easy clean design accented by a detailed embroidery around the ankle.

£210 at Oki Ni
Maison Martin Margiela Painted Germany Army Trainers (GAT)

painted mmm low top Spring/Summer 12 Mens Sneaker Recommendations

With a linen upper covered in white paint, these German Army Trainers stand out from the usual MMM GATs in a way that is tasteful and eye-catching.

$495 at Aloha Rag

Giuliano Fujiwara High Top Sneaker

giuliano fujiwara hitop Spring/Summer 12 Mens Sneaker Recommendations

Clean lines and mixed materials make this sneaker an attention grabbing choice for Summer. Made in the same factories as Raf Simons and common projects these sneakers are made to last.

$620 at The Corner

New Balance M1300LG-Grey

newbalance M1300LG KS1 Spring/Summer 12 Mens Sneaker Recommendations

New Balances may be approaching played-out status but if you’re set on a pair you might as well go with one of the best models the 1300. This understated light grey colorway is sure to match plenty of items in your wardrobe.

$130 via Kith

Ann Demeulemeester Calf-leather Wrap-lace Trainers

annd sneakers 1 Spring/Summer 12 Mens Sneaker Recommendations

The quintessential Ann D sneaker in a beautiful calf leather material. These are sure to go with jeans or trousers and can be dressed up or down with ease.

$415 via re.porter

reporter 1 Interview : Graham Newmarch of re.porter

This past week I saw a notification pop-up from Graham Newmarch inviting me to become a fan of re.porter. Clicking through to the facebook page and subsequently the website, I was greeted with pieces from CCP, Ann Demeulemeester, and Julius. What initially struck me was the quality and consistency of the styling and the rarity of some pieces. I could tell this was not the average webstore. I reached out to Graham [founder of re.porter] to learn more about his venture and gain insight to his unique approach to online retail.

Explain the concept behind re. porter and how the site came to be

Good things happen when friends move to china. that is to say, because my best friends moved to Guangzhou, leaving me [and all their professional studio equipment] behind. I had already been doing consignment via eBay for some of my retail clients, and didn’t hesitate to seize this opportunity to take it to an entirely new level.

re. porter, literally translated, means to wear again. It’s a simple play on words with the prêt-a-porter collections we’re all so accustomed to drooling over a palm-full of times each year. As simple as it might be though, it says a lot about what I want re. porter to become.

High fashion is supposed to exist outside the strictures of time-driven stresses. it’s supposed to remain unaffected & uninfluenced by trends, focusing instead on the exploration of its own particular expression, voice, or style. it’s supposed to be timeless…

Unfortunately, when it comes to the retail side of things , time is a very real factor – and of prime concern. boutiques are under severe pressure to get stock in as soon as possible, and move it out just as fast. Having spent a lot of time working in luxury retail [Komakino in Vancouver, and Layers in London] I’d always wanted to run my own store, but never liked the aggressive nature of brick and mortar sales – and the luxury retail-world as a whole.

With re. porter – I have a unique opportunity to pay homage to the timelessness I’ve always so idealistically attributed to my favourite designers’ work. old[er] pieces from Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens, or Damir Doma combine effortlessly with any of their latest seasons’ offerings. re. porter provides its clients with the opportunity to find sold-out gems from their favourite designers’ past seasons – hopefully aiding & abetting avant-garde collectors at-large in their individual quests for fashion’s holy-grails.

Many of our clients don’t even realize we’re a primarily consignment-based operation. As far as I’m concerned, that’s the biggest indicator that we’re doing our job correctly.  We place prime importance on presentation, and believe by showcasing consigned goods with equal [or more] integrity as others do new stock – we pay proper respect to the artistry of the work, and the timelessness of its respective aesthetic.

reporter 2 Interview : Graham Newmarch of re.porter

How do you source and select what makes it up for sale on re. porter?

Sourcing takes up the grand majority of my time. as re. porter is by-and-large a consignment based operation, I spend my days corresponding with clients and collectors alike, offering them the opportunity to consign with our store.

That being said, not everything in the store is previously owned. I spend a fair amount of time sourcing items from the world’s various online vintage and second-hand markets – where it’s not rare to find completely new gems-of-old; who never found their destined customer before the boutique was forced to move them along.

In the months leading up to launch, it wasn’t unusual for me to spend twelve [or more] hours a day corresponding with clients, collectors, and boutiques – convincing them to consign with us and calmly reassuring them i wasn’t actually a criminal. Now that we’ve launched it would seem the website does most of that work for me, and i can focus on what products i choose to take on consignment, rather than searching for any to consign at all.

The process of selection itself is fairly straightforward. I’m pretty much my own client, that is to say – my target client-base knows these designers just as well as i do.As in all buying, there’s a bit of logistics involved, but what I do is more akin to curating a gallery; choosing my stock based on its [already proven] success in both the first-sale & after-sales markets, “Hrmmm, should i really take these highly-coveted works of artisanal beauty on for consignment? I mean, I remember them selling out world-wide in about the blink of a bomb, and they RARELY pop-up on the internet and even MORE rarely stay-up…” it seems pretty obvious when explained.

reporter 3 Interview : Graham Newmarch of re.porter

What are your long term plans for re. porter? Is a physical location in the future? 

I definitely have some exciting plans for how to integrate re. porter into the world of flesh & bone – but such plans will never involve bricks, mortar, or fixed locations.The adaptability afforded us by being a strictly online operation will allow re. porter [Vancouver] to easily transition into re. porter [Tokyo], you know… as an example. But in the more immediate meantime, look for re. porter to temporarily pop-up in different locations across North America in true guerrilla-style fashion.

You’ll witness the website evolve as well, adding a lot more functionality & control to the [already awesome] home page. We’re hoping this will provide us with the ability to showcase specific pieces & brands – and even help us feature young designers, local or otherwise.

What is inspiring you of late in fashion? Any designers or collections really catching your eye?

This Fall / Winter 2012’s runway collections [both men’s & women’s] were some of the best, & most inspiring shows I’d seen in years. Yohji’s women’s show was gorgeous, everything I’ve always loved about him just emphasized, colored and complemented in a fashion I hadn’t seen for so long. Julius_7’s runway show truly wowed me for the first time ever this season – eschewing their overtly anime-inspired styling for a more wearable aesthetic [more akin to how real people wear the brand] just made this show sing for me. A.F. Vandervorst probably moved me more than anything else this season though, with the styling, clothes, casting & music all making me wonder how the brand’s nearly impossible to find stocked sometimes.

However, I’m more of a fashion collector, rather than consumer, and actually spend most of my time tracking down items from clothing’s past; items I either missed out on because I didn’t have money at the time of release, or simply because they were released before I’d ever even cared for clothes… my most cherished designer of all time is an artisanal Italian designer named Maurizio Altieri. he started the design collective Carpe Diem, and most of the clothes I’m constantly tracking down are  Carpe Diem, l’maltieri, m.a+, or label under construction [all ex-carpe diem designers] release.

Honestly though, there’s too many Carpe Diem scions showing up these days, with designers riding their carpe-affiliation coat-tails to undeserved levels of success. That being said, the designer Mariavittoria Sargentini’s label marvielab, is one particular brand I exempt from this derision. her work is some of my most cherished these days – encapsulating every Carpe Diem nuance I miss in a fresh manner all of her own.

On the more fun side of fashion though Takahiro Miyashita’s new shit [the soloist] is something to appreciate and if I’m ever bored i just browse through Junya Watanabe’s catalog of women’s collections for some eye-candy & inspiration.

Otherwise, I’ve always loved Ann, old[er] Raf, and everything Rick – with the latter being the reason for my first forays into this world of fashion. Rick took weird mainstream, and they love him for it – it’s almost too good to be true.

reporter 4 Interview : Graham Newmarch of re.porter

With so many online shopping experiences available now. What do you think the market is missing? What unique perspectives are you bringing to online retail with re. porter?

Honestly, the online shopping world is doing pretty okay. I wouldn’t say there’s much missing but I would want to call a lot of places out for lazy styling, lazy web-design, and lazy customer service. However, online is rarely a boutique’s primary concern as they’re too busy focusing on their walk-in clients.

Personally, I want the online shopping experience to mirror my own esteem for the clothing I’m buying. I’ll refrain from naming names, but i see too many online stores these days whose presentation shows absolutely no respect for the value of the product they’re selling. Stop with the annoying intro screens set to macabre music, stop with the floating images over pixelated backdrops, and stop showing me your stupid model’s blue-steeled or perv-stach’ed expressions – I don’t want to buy your clothes if you think I find that shit appealing.

That being said, I have to give credit where credit is due – and that is to places like LN-CC for their brilliant styling, casting, buying, & presentation; and to Atelier New York for its distinctively artful touch [not to mention their unparalleled customer service and encyclopaedically-brained sales associates].

With re. porter, we aim to offer a uniquely intimate online shopping experience – taking the obsequious levels of service experienced in the world’s finest men’s boutiques, and directly transposing it to the online world. this is why we’ve chosen to employ an enquiry-based purchasing system. We prefer directly communicating every purchase with our clients – as it allows us to develop the same client/clothier relationship that occurs in proper brick ‘n mortar boutiques.

I’m a Shakespearean actor by training, and my favourite Elizabethan theatre critic always said a play was most successful when its form matched its content. That is to say – how a piece is presented is every bit as important as the piece itself. With re. porter, I believe we’ve created an online photographic-playground; one part gallery, every part boutique that not only emphasizes, but relies on the beauty of the stock it houses to create a truly unified luxury shopping experience.

re. porter, in essence, is a project borne purely out of passion for the work it houses – and we hope it shows.

Questions and Introduction by Rocky Li

All Images via re.porter

 

 

annd retrospective 1 Ann Demeulemeester Retrospective 1996 2009

annd retrospective 2 Ann Demeulemeester Retrospective 1996 2009

This editorial from Nomenus Quarterly from several years ago has always stayed in my head. Retrospective editorials are generally hit or miss but this one perfectly captures the feeling that Ann Demeulemeester has pushed over the last decade. Casting a large roster of models and outfitting them in clothing spanning this period results in a visually striking and beautiful take on her past work.

Photographer Erik Madigan Heck / Styling Emily Barnes at See Mgmt / Additional Styling Jesper Gudbersgen

Via

http://www.nomenusquarterly.com/

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