Having tracked the evolution of Rick Owens for the better part of a decade it’s always fun to see what he puts out each season. The main theme in his design career has been refinement, not necessarily re-invention. Fall/Winter 2014 continued his slant towards minimalism and it’s cool to see Rick continue to pare down some details while still experimenting more with volume and shape. The three looks from this season stood out to me the most are above in particular the military vest piece. I’ve seen many good takes on similar pieces but Rick definitely was able to give it a luxe feel. I also like the look with the layered black shorts as it’s an obvious homage to the Adidas shorts everyone wore in high school. Although I don’t intend on buying too much Rick in the near future, I do love the idea of wearing and styling Rick as expensive gym clothes/streetwear. Ultimately that’s what draws me to the brand as it’s branding and price-point serve to project one image, but Rick has always been about a confluence of disparate inspirations both high and low.
Also respect to Rick for somehow both designing some hybrid between a nun’s headpiece and a du-rag AND playing a chicago footwork track by RP Boo for the finale.
“I think all men want to project a certain amount of authority in the way that they dress. Défilé means parade, a military thing. I was thinking about how a young man reacts to authority, the way he is hard-wired to reject it in order to move forward and create his own authority. I remember rejecting authority and I remember how urgent that was – school! Cops! Teachers! Parents! Everything. A lot of what I do is a memory of that reaction. A man who’s interested in dressing, is interested in expressing himself. And part of that is rejecting standards” Rick Owens
See plenty of detail shots after the jump
Backstage Photos by Lea Colombo via Dazed
Many close-up detail shots after the jump
Designers Marc Daniels and Ricky Henry revealed an edgier fashion-forward aesthetic for the maturing tech-centric line. With their roots firmly grounded in technical sportswear, the duo have confidently refined an aesthetic that appeals to the fashion crowd while remaining accessible and functional.
The garments on display highlighted Isaora’s heavy emphasis on advanced fabrication and performance-ready textiles, with nylon bonded outerwear, laser cut pieces, and waterproof shells. But these more advanced pieces were complimented by easy-wearing cut and sew, which allowed the collection to retain a relaxed feel amidst all the technical wizardry.
The presentation itself was a perfect compliment to the clothing: sharp, dramatic, and moody, with high-key lighting and an emphasis on geometry and line.
All photos and words by Daniel Small
See the rest of the photos after the jump
Highland hosted a presentation for their Spring/Summer 2014 collection this past Thursday at the downtown landmark Santo’s Party House. In true Highland fashion, the presentation was an amalgamation of disparate influences and felt more like a college house party (complete with free PBR) than a fashion show. The presentation had the models lifting weights at times underneath a poster of Arnold in his prime.
There’s some new additions to the line everything from denim jackets to knit beanies. The stand pieces for me were the iridescent MA-1, the 3M jacket and the graphic-print sweatpants. The plain jerseys were also a really nice take on something that fashion designers are trying their hardest to play out. The footwear which was provided by converse were painted by Highland to look like Adidas. Many of the looks were styled with a basketball shorts in a variety of designs.
The rest of the night featured a series of musical performances by Lakutis, Rat King and Gobby. The whole thing had a nice hazy 90’s music video feel to it and it was great to see the local support that Highland is getting (not to mention a recent Drake cosign).
In a week that’s often times very corporate, manufactured-feeling and filled with pretension, Highland just threw a good party for their friends and supporters. Be sure to check out my interview with Lizzie and Cramer from Highland in case you missed it the first time around.
See the looks after the jump
Dries Van Noten comes correct with another extremely strong season. As one of the few designers who constantly threads new territory with each men’s collection while still maintaining the DNA of his aesthetic his collections are ones I always look forward to seeing. While brands have started an arms race of sorts, ODing on bigger, brighter, and more elaborate prints, Dries shows his mastery here , succeeding where many have failed. Models wore an array of florals taken from different periods throughout history.
The details are carefully thought out and the fit of the tailored pieces impeccable as to be expected from one of the Antwerp six. Everything from the size of the collars on the shirts, to the eyewear choices, to the gold-foiled background of the runway match the tone of the show perfectly. While his aesthetic may not be my own, Dries is an aspirational brand for me. I can always imagine myself in it and I hope I can acquire some pieces from this collection. I applaud Dries for avoiding the noise in the fashion industry and humbly steadfastly containing to deliver quality collection after quality collection at an incredibly fair price-point for the men’s fashion market.
More images after the jump
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Rick Owens latest Paris showing is possibly his most minimist collection yet. Having played with glam rock elements and more ornate displays in the past few collections, he returns here with a ‘less is more’ philosophy. His trademark leather jackets return stripped down to all but their most simple shapes. Tank tops and t-shirts have few accents except for a few zipper and touches of mesh and leather. The footwear is a mix of the divise Adidas collaboration (which is growing on me, day by day, though still something I wouldn’t buy for myself) and a new equally strange-looking boot.
Adding to the show’s proceedings was a much buzzed about performance from a former Eurovision contestant band as Winny Puhh that Rick says he discovered on the internet. Despite a collection that didn’t stray too far from his foundations, leave it to Rick’s to find a way to keep finding new ways to tell his strange stories.
More images after the jump
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Raf Simons has had a long storied career in fashion. Now at the helm of womenswear for Dior, many in fashion felt that own namesake label was placed on backburner for the past few seasons. This strong Spring/Summer 2014 collection should dispel that notion. Taking place 30 minutes outside Paris at the Gagosian Gallery surrounded by the work of artists Alexander Calder and Jean Prouvé, this show was Raf’s attempt at creating a memorable fashion moment.
Now that his label has survived through 20 years in the business, Raf had a chance to breathe and re-collect his thoughts. Bits and pieces of his past designs show up here, the bright optimistic flashes of color, the modernist graphics, and a certain youthful nonchalance expressed by each model who walked by. Something Raf himself commented on in his interview with Dazed :
“All the boys were natural tonight. There was nobody who did the hair for them. We showed them as they come so it was very much about the way of dressing, the way of choosing the clothes as a way to express yourself. It was not a camouflage in terms of how you can create yourself with hair or product or styling. You think about the collection and that is what is interesting right now. You can just take it or leave it but hopefully take it. “
With the length of the shirting and jackets being purposefully long and paired with shorts that were inches from the knee, there was a androgynous edge in the collection but the pieces themselves are versatile enough to be worn many manner of ways. I particuarly liked the black perforated tech-jacket and the bright sneakers/boots which looked like Jetsons pop-art versions of Art Maxes and hiking boots. Suffice to say, this will be a collection that will appeal to fans of Raf Simons.
See all the looks after the jump
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Korean designer MUNSON KWON has been designing for several seasons now but his Fall/Winter 2013 is by far the strongest I’ve seen from him. Based around the ‘Lost Boys-eque’ idea of being a kidult, the collection merges popular culture from the 80s-90s (through which many of us grew up) and tailored menswear. An assortment of duffle coats, varsity jackets, beanies and cardigans are given a playful edge through the use of pattern (polka-dots) and colorful details (such as the toggles on the duffle coat).
South Korea is emerging as a powerful force in men’s fashion and I’m excited to see if brands like Munsoo will be able to break into western markets.
More looks after the jump.
mastermind Japan is one of those brands that has a look that is decidedly Tokyo. Mastermind has always ridden the line between high fashion and Tokyo street for the fifteen years of it’s existence. The brand has continued to put a fob-centric and slightly gaudy signiture on it’s clothes; a signiture that channeled rebellious rock n roll attitude through a luxury lens usually reserved for men’s brands like Dior Homme. The craftsmanship and quality has always been there and it’s for that reason that the brand has collaborated on product with the likes of Undercover, BAPE, Stussy and Visvim.
While the brand is not known for doing runway shows, Mastermind went all out with a huge spring/summer collection this Tokyo Fashion Week entitled ‘Dreams’. The thing that stood out to me this collection were cuts of the pieces shown. I really love that both the outerwear and jeans/trousers strike a good balance between slim and slightly oversized. There’s some amazing detailing on many of the pieces and the line offers it’s own takes from everything from streetwear and technical outerwear to suiting to even some prep looks. For me the wallet chains paird with black trousers and styled with t-shirts really nail the look that mastermind has done over the years. Look for collaborations with Stussy, COMMES des GARCONS Black, MEDICOM TOY and Lowe
I believe that the popular men’s aesthetic is slowly moving away from the ultra-slim cuts of Hedi Slimane or Band of Outsiders. The fashionable guys out there will embrace a more volumous fit in coming seasons but that’s a matter for another post. Right now I just want to commend Honma Masaaki for staying true to one vision for this long and deciding to end the line while it is still relevant. I think it’s important for fashion creators to always adapt , change and at the end of the day sometimes that even mean’s letting go, and for Masaaki, what a way to go out. I’ll leave you with this quote about mastermind Japan’s logo.
The skull is part of me and means “Hold on to your dream until you die”. To that end, I will continue to do just that.
See more looks after the jump
This was the first Y-3 show I’ve had the pleasure of seeing in person. The location was an abandoned factory space in the lower east side which provided a historical contrast from this futurist sportswear by Yohji Yamamoto. In the collection there’s pretty straight on takes on sportswear staples such as track jackets and sneakers but my favorite pieces were the ones that blended signature Yohji shapes with synthetic materials and minimal Y-3 branding.
More after the jump
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