Korean designer MUNSON KWON has been designing for several seasons now but his Fall/Winter 2013 is by far the strongest I’ve seen from him. Based around the ‘Lost Boys-eque’ idea of being a kidult, the collection merges popular culture from the 80s-90s (through which many of us grew up) and tailored menswear. An assortment of duffle coats, varsity jackets, beanies and cardigans are given a playful edge through the use of pattern (polka-dots) and colorful details (such as the toggles on the duffle coat).
South Korea is emerging as a powerful force in men’s fashion and I’m excited to see if brands like Munsoo will be able to break into western markets.
More looks after the jump.
mastermind Japan is one of those brands that has a look that is decidedly Tokyo. Mastermind has always ridden the line between high fashion and Tokyo street for the fifteen years of it’s existence. The brand has continued to put a fob-centric and slightly gaudy signiture on it’s clothes; a signiture that channeled rebellious rock n roll attitude through a luxury lens usually reserved for men’s brands like Dior Homme. The craftsmanship and quality has always been there and it’s for that reason that the brand has collaborated on product with the likes of Undercover, BAPE, Stussy and Visvim.
While the brand is not known for doing runway shows, Mastermind went all out with a huge spring/summer collection this Tokyo Fashion Week entitled ‘Dreams’. The thing that stood out to me this collection were cuts of the pieces shown. I really love that both the outerwear and jeans/trousers strike a good balance between slim and slightly oversized. There’s some amazing detailing on many of the pieces and the line offers it’s own takes from everything from streetwear and technical outerwear to suiting to even some prep looks. For me the wallet chains paird with black trousers and styled with t-shirts really nail the look that mastermind has done over the years. Look for collaborations with Stussy, COMMES des GARCONS Black, MEDICOM TOY and Lowe
I believe that the popular men’s aesthetic is slowly moving away from the ultra-slim cuts of Hedi Slimane or Band of Outsiders. The fashionable guys out there will embrace a more volumous fit in coming seasons but that’s a matter for another post. Right now I just want to commend Honma Masaaki for staying true to one vision for this long and deciding to end the line while it is still relevant. I think it’s important for fashion creators to always adapt , change and at the end of the day sometimes that even mean’s letting go, and for Masaaki, what a way to go out. I’ll leave you with this quote about mastermind Japan’s logo.
The skull is part of me and means “Hold on to your dream until you die”. To that end, I will continue to do just that.
See more looks after the jump
This was the first Y-3 show I’ve had the pleasure of seeing in person. The location was an abandoned factory space in the lower east side which provided a historical contrast from this futurist sportswear by Yohji Yamamoto. In the collection there’s pretty straight on takes on sportswear staples such as track jackets and sneakers but my favorite pieces were the ones that blended signature Yohji shapes with synthetic materials and minimal Y-3 branding.
More after the jump
Do you remember smoking weed, drinking beer, eating Doritos and playing N64 in your high school friend’s basement? Highland presented guests of their FW13 collection with an experience that was quite similar to those carefree days of youth. The set was littered with bongs, snacks, a PBR beer pyramid and shag carpeting and admist the chaos were models donning the collection of jackets, sweaters, branded t-shirts and jeans. The interactive presentation was a reflection of the brand’s approach, smartly and subversively using the wasteland of American suburbia as a platform for refined streetwear. While Highland make not be a household name in the US menswear market yet, this presentation exemplified how the brand is quickly building steady buzz in New York.
More photos after the jump
At their core, runway shows are about creating a spectacle and Hood by Air certainly achieved that with their Fall/Winer 2013 Runway show ‘Boychild’ at Milk Studios. The brand has existed since 2007 but really blew up in 2012 with a little help from celebrity trendsetters such as Rihanna. An array of looks came marching down the lazer-lit runway, set to a pulsing dystopian soundtrack. They ranged from simple screen printed t-shirts to more elaborate pieces such as a zippered neoprene jacket. What I appreciate most about Hood by Air is that the brand is an honest and natural extension of the lifestyle that designer Shane Oliver and his cohorts have been leading for years. Don’t be suprised to even see the wildest HBA pieces at the next GHE20G0THIK party or in basement clubs and warehouse raves throughout New York. Self proclaimed fashion killa A$AP Rocky made an appearance closing out the show to the applause and cheering of many in the audience. 2013 promises to be an even bigger and better year for Hood by Air.
More photos after the jump
Boris Bidjan Saberi
Boris compliments this well-cut suit with a boots, a t-shirt and a rain-shell, adding a casual feel to an otherwise tailored look. The entire show revealed maturity and growth from the German designer and it ranks as one of his best to date.
Juun was one of the designers championing a fuller cut this season and he executed it in style. The highlight of the show were pieces which were variants on the MA-1 design. Presented here with creative layer, an oversized turteneck and Duke Nukem army cut Juun shows he’s in strong form in 2013.
A slightly slouchy silhouette mixed with a all grey tonal fit make this outfit worth considering for Fall. Damir is able to pull off a series of romantic AND wearable looks this collection. For FW13 he has refined his aeshetic and make it a little bit more accessible to men this season without losing the essence of his design style.
Rick Owens has been a major influence in men’s fashion over the past 10 year and in that time created his own fashion universe. Here Rick presents a cleaned up minimal take on the goth-glam look that’s become his trademark. The belted samurai jacket returns with cleaner lines underneath his signiture leather pattern. Th personal highlight for me on this fit is the paneled leather pants but the whole thing just looks incredibly badass. It’s always a pleasure to see how Rick continues to evolve as a designer without every straying too far from his roots.
Dries Van Noten
Dries brings a more somber presentation for this fall/winter collection with a palette of earth tones and paisley prints. The quilted bomber here is something Dries executes so well. The minimal collar, slim but still puffy shape and patterned trousers put this look on my list.
Saint Laurent Paris Men’s
One of the most anticipated shows in Paris, Hedi sets out to prove that rock isn’t quite dead. I gave Hedi a hard time with his debut womenswear collection but I’m pretty pleased with his debut men’s showing. This look from the show is deceptively simple but it’s execution is spot-on for what Hedi wants to achieve. While many designers try to incorporate rock influences, this just looks the part effortlessly. The way it should always be in rock’n'roll.
The title of this collection is ‘Chinpira’ meaning ‘Punk’ celebrates a movement largely characterized by a concern for individual freedom and anti-establishment views. This stood out as one of my favorite collections all week as it struck a delicate balance between intricately crafted luxurious garments and subcultural styling. The above look has a yakuza feel and the glasses definitely Chow Yun Fat from John Woo’s The Killer in the best way possible.
Yohji Yamamoto is a master and he has once again put together a collection that any man would be lucky to have in their wardrobes. What I loved about this particular look was the cut of the camel overcoat and the little details fro the shape of the boots to the look of the pull over-hat. The leopard print hat and glued on mustaches of the models add a welcome dose of quirkiness and humor to an otherwise serious affair.
Since his moto collection Junya hasn’t put a ton of black in his collections but this mostly-black look is Junya at his best. The washed out denim chore coat hung on the shoulders with the patchwork blazer underneath and the not too baggy/not too slim cropped trousers add up to a brilliant outfit.
Kim Jones has really revitalized Louis Vuitton menswear and made the brand relevant again to fashionable guys worldwide. With looks like this, it’s easy to see why. The tonal plaid suit layered underneath the show-stopping shearling parka just looks incredible. The styling with the toque and t-shirt add just enough chav to keep these luxurious clothes from being only the domain of rich white men. I imagine this is how Eastern Promises would have looked with a larger wardrobe budget.
Whiz Limited is a brand that is new to me but has existed in Japan for a decade. The brand’s founder Hiroaki Shitano began with hand-made t-shirts with his friends and since then has expanded to create a complete men’s line. The concept of Whiz Limited is creating ‘Individual Clothing’ ; garments that represent different aspects of Tokyo culture without succumbing to a stereotyped, contrived “Tokyo Streetstyle”.
What i like about this collection are the well-executed outerwear pieces paired with the clean practical styling. The garments are takes on familiar men’s staples but the line does not go overboard on design details. Many current menswear designers have a tendency to overdesign at times and I think the restraint seen here should be applauded. What I also liked is that these full looks would be very easy for guys to wear but the styling also shows how many of the pieces can be worked into a variety of wardrobes. A quick glance at the web-store revealed prices for outerwear range from about ¥20,000 to ¥100,000 (Approx 1260 USD). I will definetly be featuring more coverage on this brand in the future.
via Fashion Snap
Facetasm Spring/Summer 2013 Collection
Detail shots of men’s looks
Facetasm does not make minimal clothing. As is obvious from the above photos , Facetasm is all about maximalism. Bold colors patterns , and fabrics combined with unorthodox styling define the brand and this season is no different. Hiromichi Ochiai cut his teeth designing for the likes of UNDERCOVER and COMME des GARCONS and has made the theme of the Spring/Summer 2013 collection ‘Flavor’. Certainly these looks don’t lack in that department. While the styling for Facetasm is a bit too over the top for my tastes, there are a few items that I wouldn’t mind adding to my wardrobe. I think the important thing observers of the brand need to recognize is that it really is a brand made for self-styling and expression; you should feel free to choose the pieces you like and wear them YOUR way even if it looks nothing like the runway looks. Each season of this brand so far has been quite different and I’m excited to see how the brand will progress.
Ohne Titel Spring/Summer 2013 at Milk Studios
Eckhaus Latta Spring/Summer 2013 at Milk Studios
Louise Goldin Spring/Summer 2013 at Milk Studios
Gerlan Jeans Spring/Summer 2013
The Blondes Spring/Summer 2013 at Milk Studios
Consider this post a B-side of photos I finally got around to posting from New York Fashion Week. The most promising take-away from it for me was that there are still many new ideas and approaches to fashion here in New York City. It’s easy to get caught up in the media coverage of what’s hot, but when you dig a little deeper there’s a whole wealth of designers who are creating something wonderful and unique just under the surface.
If you missed my earlier NYFW week coverage click HERE to see more NYFW shows.
Photos by Rocky Li