John Elliot (formerly John Elliot Co) is best known for men’s basics; the crux of which have been his hoodies, sweatshirts and crewnecks. Styles such as the Villain hoody, Escobar Sweatpants, and Mercer tees have gained a dedicated following and helped propel the brand’s growth to new markets. For Fall/Winter 2016 , the label aims to established a broader scope, bringing in new pieces like a shaggy fleece pullover (which resembles vintage Patagonia), quilted down pieces and heavier wool and leather outerwear pieces. The show was sequenced and styled by color, going from clinical all-white looks to greys, olives and finally deep burgundy. Time will tell if guys will snap up the more elaborate pieces as quickly as as the basics but look for the items to be available this summer through their official site and stockists.
Christophe Lemaire just showed his name ‘Lemaire’ Fall/Winter 2016 collection at Paris Fashion Week. While there has been a trend towards more casual wear (sneakers and streetwear leading the way), Lemaire has held steadfast in it’s pursuit of luxury minimal menswear. In terms of that look, he’s one of the best doing it and it shows in this collection. What Lemaire really nails is fabric and cut. The garments drape perfectly and offer a streamlined fit without seeming too slim or restrictive of movement. Along with Dries Van Noten and Yohji Yamamoto this is one of the labels I consistently look to for inspiration on dressing up.
Gosha Rubchinskiy showed his Fall/Winter 2016 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week. The show was a shift from his olympic themed spring/summer showing. This time around the Russian designer pivoted away from primary colors and the more ostentatious branding towards a more industrial, grungy aesthetic that brings to mind the type of communist era Soviet army surplus. Shirts are tucked in with army belts and layered underneath heavy leathers and shearling coats. Sweatshirts and pants are oversized with sleeves and pantlegs draping like extra appendages. The sneakers are Reebok, and hint at a collaborative model dropping soon. While not a predictable collection, it does it’s job of adding to Gosha’s universe and all it entails. Look for the items to drop online this summer at stockists like End Clothing, Tres Bien and SSENSE.
If you, like me, wear alot of black in the cold weather months it can seem like a challenge to transition to a more colorful palette come summertime. A new video from SSENSE provides inspiration for colorful dressing through a frentic high-energy video.
The Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby collection is all over Paris and London streetstyle this year . That collection was both a return to form for Raf and also a reminder of his influence on the menswear industry. Following his appointment at Dior, his own namesake label seemed to suffer a bit and seemed slightly neglected for a few seasons following. As a longtime Raf fan I was quite excited by the new direction he had steered the brand into with the Sterling collaboration.
Raf showed his latest Fall/Winter 2015 offerings in Paris. This collection is more muted and subtle than his last two. The designs cut back on being graphic heavy and instead rely on the cut and fabric to make their mark. The color palette fluctuates between earth tones and pops of brighter colors. Overall the collection seemed to miss the mark. There were a few things that stood out to me, the coats were generously long and featured great proportions for the most part. Some individual trousers and turtlenecks also caught my eye as something worth a purchase this year. That being said the collection does feel a bit bland, and the execution of the styling simply didn’t appeal to me. I definitely couldn’t get down with one of the sloppy looks in the collection featuring a knit sleeveless vest layered over a baggy oxford. As with most Raf collections there’s definitely gems in some of the individual pieces (particularly the wool coats) but with Raf you have to set the bar high
See all the looks after the jump
Having tracked the evolution of Rick Owens for the better part of a decade it’s always fun to see what he puts out each season. The main theme in his design career has been refinement, not necessarily re-invention. Fall/Winter 2014 continued his slant towards minimalism and it’s cool to see Rick continue to pare down some details while still experimenting more with volume and shape. The three looks from this season stood out to me the most are above in particular the military vest piece. I’ve seen many good takes on similar pieces but Rick definitely was able to give it a luxe feel. I also like the look with the layered black shorts as it’s an obvious homage to the Adidas shorts everyone wore in high school. Although I don’t intend on buying too much Rick in the near future, I do love the idea of wearing and styling Rick as expensive gym clothes/streetwear. Ultimately that’s what draws me to the brand as it’s branding and price-point serve to project one image, but Rick has always been about a confluence of disparate inspirations both high and low.
Also respect to Rick for somehow both designing some hybrid between a nun’s headpiece and a du-rag AND playing a chicago footwork track by RP Boo for the finale.
“I think all men want to project a certain amount of authority in the way that they dress. Défilé means parade, a military thing. I was thinking about how a young man reacts to authority, the way he is hard-wired to reject it in order to move forward and create his own authority. I remember rejecting authority and I remember how urgent that was – school! Cops! Teachers! Parents! Everything. A lot of what I do is a memory of that reaction. A man who’s interested in dressing, is interested in expressing himself. And part of that is rejecting standards” Rick Owens
See plenty of detail shots after the jump
Backstage Photos by Lea Colombo via Dazed
Many close-up detail shots after the jump
Designers Marc Daniels and Ricky Henry revealed an edgier fashion-forward aesthetic for the maturing tech-centric line. With their roots firmly grounded in technical sportswear, the duo have confidently refined an aesthetic that appeals to the fashion crowd while remaining accessible and functional.
The garments on display highlighted Isaora’s heavy emphasis on advanced fabrication and performance-ready textiles, with nylon bonded outerwear, laser cut pieces, and waterproof shells. But these more advanced pieces were complimented by easy-wearing cut and sew, which allowed the collection to retain a relaxed feel amidst all the technical wizardry.
The presentation itself was a perfect compliment to the clothing: sharp, dramatic, and moody, with high-key lighting and an emphasis on geometry and line.
All photos and words by Daniel Small
See the rest of the photos after the jump
Highland hosted a presentation for their Spring/Summer 2014 collection this past Thursday at the downtown landmark Santo’s Party House. In true Highland fashion, the presentation was an amalgamation of disparate influences and felt more like a college house party (complete with free PBR) than a fashion show. The presentation had the models lifting weights at times underneath a poster of Arnold in his prime.
There’s some new additions to the line everything from denim jackets to knit beanies. The stand pieces for me were the iridescent MA-1, the 3M jacket and the graphic-print sweatpants. The plain jerseys were also a really nice take on something that fashion designers are trying their hardest to play out. The footwear which was provided by converse were painted by Highland to look like Adidas. Many of the looks were styled with a basketball shorts in a variety of designs.
The rest of the night featured a series of musical performances by Lakutis, Rat King and Gobby. The whole thing had a nice hazy 90’s music video feel to it and it was great to see the local support that Highland is getting (not to mention a recent Drake cosign).
In a week that’s often times very corporate, manufactured-feeling and filled with pretension, Highland just threw a good party for their friends and supporters. Be sure to check out my interview with Lizzie and Cramer from Highland in case you missed it the first time around.
See the looks after the jump
Dries Van Noten comes correct with another extremely strong season. As one of the few designers who constantly threads new territory with each men’s collection while still maintaining the DNA of his aesthetic his collections are ones I always look forward to seeing. While brands have started an arms race of sorts, ODing on bigger, brighter, and more elaborate prints, Dries shows his mastery here , succeeding where many have failed. Models wore an array of florals taken from different periods throughout history.
The details are carefully thought out and the fit of the tailored pieces impeccable as to be expected from one of the Antwerp six. Everything from the size of the collars on the shirts, to the eyewear choices, to the gold-foiled background of the runway match the tone of the show perfectly. While his aesthetic may not be my own, Dries is an aspirational brand for me. I can always imagine myself in it and I hope I can acquire some pieces from this collection. I applaud Dries for avoiding the noise in the fashion industry and humbly steadfastly containing to deliver quality collection after quality collection at an incredibly fair price-point for the men’s fashion market.
More images after the jump
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Rick Owens latest Paris showing is possibly his most minimist collection yet. Having played with glam rock elements and more ornate displays in the past few collections, he returns here with a ‘less is more’ philosophy. His trademark leather jackets return stripped down to all but their most simple shapes. Tank tops and t-shirts have few accents except for a few zipper and touches of mesh and leather. The footwear is a mix of the divise Adidas collaboration (which is growing on me, day by day, though still something I wouldn’t buy for myself) and a new equally strange-looking boot.
Adding to the show’s proceedings was a much buzzed about performance from a former Eurovision contestant band as Winny Puhh that Rick says he discovered on the internet. Despite a collection that didn’t stray too far from his foundations, leave it to Rick’s to find a way to keep finding new ways to tell his strange stories.
More images after the jump
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