The good folks at Nomad Toronto posted up an interview with Errolson Hugh founder of ACRONYM and designer at Stone Island Shadow Project. As a visionary in technical clothing, it’s always worthwhile reading some of the insights that Errolson gives into his design process. Most of the interview focuses on his designs under the Stone Island Shadow Project label. A quote from the interview is below
What has Shadow Project enabled you to do that you haven’t been able to do with Acronym?
Errolson Hugh: Colour. Colour, and all the fabric research. We’ve learned an incredible amount making things in Italy. The way things are made in Italy is unique, I think, to the world. The tradition, the manufacturing culture in Italy is so, so strong, stronger than anywhere else I’ve ever seen it. It’s incredible to meet people who have been in the industry – like, Carlo is eighth-generation textile. And his son, Silvio, will be the next. It’s crazy. People identify themselves with their work here, with manufacturing, with making fabrics, with knitting garments. And, so, when you talk to them about it, and you talk to them on the level of, “I’m really into this and want to try that,” if you’re sparking new ideas, they’re totally excited to try it. They’re not like, “Well, are you gonna order two million?” It’s really a product, craftsmanship-based culture that I hadn’t encountered at that level before. Without which, Stone Island is basically impossible. The suppliers they work with closely, they have a partnership where, in some cases, Stone Island is almost like their research division. There’s an incredible amount of openness between the fabric suppliers, even the yarn manufacturers, or the dyers. That’s something we would never have seen otherwise. And then, of course, designing fabrics is something you just don’t usually get a chance to do. And designing fabrics in the way Stone Island can make them is also its own special thing. Very, very interesting.
Read the entire interview on Nomad
In case you missed it, take a look at our previous shop profile with Nomad.
Sk8thing may not be a household name in most places on Earth but he is a fundamental player in the evolution of modern streetwear. Sk8thing has played a founding role BAPE®, Billionaire Boys Club/Ice Cream, WTAPS and most recently C.E. His graphic designs have graced countless T-shirts and collaborative pieces and he has worked with industry heavyweights like Pharrell and Hiroshi Fujiwara. The ever elusive Sk8thing is rarely seen in public without his face obscured by masks , bandanas or scarves. His style captured in these photographs shows his personal style is as dynamic as his designs.
Essential Sk8thing Reading
The upcoming 10th anniversary issue of V-MAN includes an editorial titled ‘Hip-Hop Oligarchs.’ The feature styled by Maryam Malakpour and shot by Carlos Serrao features Wiz Khalifa , A$AP Rocky, Big Boi and Future in an array of high fashion items including Givenchy and SLP. The above video channels grainy 1990s VCR footage and is a behind the scenes look at what transpired during the shoot.
Berlin-based label SADAK presents it’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection “in liminal space”. I wasn’t sure what to make of it when I first viewed the collection, but after going through all of the looks, I see a pretty clear direction from designer Sasa Kovacevic. Sasa is able to take contemporary men’s trends (printed t-shirts, drop crotch pants and oversized cuts) and put an imprint on them that feels fresh; likely because he’s drawing from such different influences.
Apparently the collection mixes Serbian hip hop subculture and Japanese traditional dress. You can see the inspiration in the Serbian 19th century embroidery, Japanese silk painting and Serbian ethnography. The shapes here are the most interesting part to me as they are straddle the line between bold and wearable. This is the type of collection that you can go all out with or tone down with more traditional wardrobe staples. 18 more looks after the jump
A denim jacket is a key wardrobe staple that can be worn almost all year round. I’ve went and picked out 5 of my favorites from the Fall/Winter 2013 season.
Neighborhood Stockman-D/C Jacket
A western-inspired light washed denim jacket from Neighborhood. The fading on the arms and body are quite believable and not overdone. The light color makes this easy to pair with chinos, cords and other fall/appropriate pants. Subtle branding and gold hardware round out the piece. Available at Haven for $429.
Visvim Social Sculpture 101 Damaged
The jacket has everything you look for in a denim jacket. Quality 12oz selvedge denim construction, subtle side pockets and an amazing wash. Visvim sets out to improve upon men’s staples in considered meaningful ways, and in many ways this is the best Levi’s Type-II style jacket on the market. 1070 EUR at Firmament Berlin.
A.P.C Denim Jacket
With a dark wash that is easy to pair with almost any outfit this A.P.C denim jacket is perfect for anyone who lives in the suburbs and wants to out-do every other guy in a 5mile radius. Based on Lee rider jackets, this jacket is a little more comfortable than breaking in something a totally raw denim jacket. I would also recommend this to anyone with the APC jean starter kit or if you work at a web startup. $290 at Mr.Porter.
Rick Owens DRKSHDW Worker’s Jacket
It’s a shame this DRKSHDW jacket doesn’t photograph as well as it looks in person. Rick delivers quality slim (but still slightly strange) fits and the denim is always good quality (although never selvedge). This design is more minimal than we usual see from Rick for his denim line, if indigo isn’t your thing this black worker’s jacket is a good bet. $829 at The Corner.
Undercover Black Quilted-Sleeve Denim Jacket
While now the contrast material sleeve thing seems to be everywhere in 2013, Undercover was one of the original brands to really implement it well. It has become something of a brand trademark they have played around with season to season. The quilting on the nylon sleeves adds some texture and the raw edges on the bottom hem set this out against the more luxe street goth thing every is doing now. Just don’t pair this with leather sweat pants. $815 at SSENSE.
RSVP Gallery in Chicago just dropped an selection of items from CAVEMPT. The release included the ziggurat patch sweatshirt, a light white synthetic jacket and the brown MA-1 style bomber jacket. Many items from C.E seem to be selling briskly on other webshops so you may want to hurry if one of these pieces catches your eye.
The Black Soft is best known for being a band, but the members Chase and Joey are involved in a variety of projects across disciplines. They worked with Nicola Formichetti on a MAC Cosmetics commercial last year. Recently they provided the artwork for the Religion UK pop-up on Broome St (which closed earlier this month). The black and white paintings caught my attention.
More photos after the jump.
While the on-going collaboration between Fred Perry and Raf Simons has not really broke new ground in it’s product offering, there are always a few gems in each collection. For Autumn/Winter 2013, Raf once again visits Mod culture (think checkerboard shirts) and mashes it against American collegiate wear (varsity jackets w/ chenille letters). The presentation is nicely done with Pierre Debusscherre behind the lens with styling by Robbie Spencer (fashion director at Dazed & Confused). Keeping with the line’s inspirations the location of this shoots Hippodrome de Boitsfort ( a former racecourse in Brussels built in 1875).
My personal favorites are the electric blue duffle coat, the knit polo and the burgundy varsity. Take a look at the rest of the collection after the jump.
Recent years have shown steady growth for Japan based label Sophnet. The brand has crept into more stores on both North American and European shores, surely part of the plan for Jun Co (who owns Sophnet, Uniform Experiment and F.C.R.B.).
The good news is that the Fall/Winter 2013/14 season is one of the strongest I’ve seen. Heavy on collaborations, the season features pieces designed in unison with Rocky Mountain Featherbed, Danner, Tricker’s, Spectus, Lee, FSF, Canada Goose and New Era. Stylistically the collection has a rugged modern vibe. The pieces look utilitarian without ever seeming too overwrought or overdesigned. Personal favorites for me are the vests, down jackets, and flannels but the whole thing is looking incredibly strong. While cooler weather may be months away, it might be wise to start saving for some investment pieces that you’ll get plenty of wear out of once fall hits.
More looks after the jump
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Consider this video an addendum to our visual walkthrough post we put up a couple days ago. Take a relaxing look at what went down at the Capsule Men’s show and an array of Spring/Summer 2014 products from some of our favorite brands at the show.
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