While still closely defined by it’s streetwear roots and the ‘motorcyclist’ aesthetic , the Neighborhood of recent years has gone towards referencing 40’s and 50’s Americana. This creates an interesting balance between the different sides of the brand, as the label is now releasing such a wide breadth of product. The fall/winter 2015 lookbook is highly stylized and has a strong workwear thread that runs throughout it. While workwear has been repeated over and over in the past few years, the angle at which NBHD approaches it still feels fresh. On top of some rugged outwear coats and leather jackets, there’s some great denim in here. If you’re a bit intimidated by the selection, shopping the collection by piece through the website can give some more insight into how you can work these pieces into your own wardrobe. Check out the entire collection here.
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While almost all men’s brands purposefully or inadvertently borrow from military aesthetics, WTAPS has been one of the best doing it for decades. WTAPS head Tetsu Nishiyama has successfully kept the brand relevant and expanded it into an international force. The latest collection is dubbed “EX.31″ (in commemoration if the 31st season) and it re-visits some key pieces from the brand’s history. The staples are mostly here from the hefty crewnecks to jungle BDUs and the classic M-65. There’s new stuff too including a collaboration with Carrhartt. A refreshing change up is how the lookbook features mostly baggier cuts of denim and pants.
This collection should strike a good balance between pieces for long-time WTAPS fans and newer entrants into the label.
Japan tends to incubate some of the strangest brand names in fashion. Despite the negative connotations of the name, Victim is putting out some solid stuff this fall/winter. The choice of model is definitely channeling a laid back young Keanu vibe. While some of the looks definitely have a vintage bohemian feel, the overall effect is clean and modern. Smart layering combined with some nicely made outerwear pieces make Victim a brand you should keep on your radar for future seasons.
View more pieces and shop online through their official site.
Nigo once again models his own creations for the Human Made Fall/Winter 2015 Collection. The collection continues to act as a counter-point to A Bathing Ape. While both have vintage influences, Human Made’s production is much closer to 50’s and 60’s Americana than BAPE was. While alot of the details and the heft/quality of the garments don’t come through in photos all the time, it can be said that Human Made garments do give off a very unique feeling in person. Although the price point is high for the stuff, it’s sure to last as much as the original deadstock vintage garments that these garments mimic. Some key items in the collection include a couple leathers (an A-1 Bomber and a Perfecto-style rider’s jacket). Also the denim, t-shirts and a great down puffer round it out. If you’re a fan of Human Made, the collection is worth checking out after the jump.
Y-3 has been gaining popuarity and momentum through 2014 with the release of the highly sought out Qasa sneaker. The hype was enough to make a new audience take a look beyond the footwear and at the unique athletic look of the entire line. GRIND kills it once again incorporating male and female models , while blending together key pieces from the fall/winter 2015 collection. Look for these items to be available directly through the Y-3 site.
I had the pleasure of seeing the FW15 collection up-close when their showroom was setup in New York. The collection came about as a result of head designer’s Hiroki Nakamura’s travels through the United States, Italy and Europe. You can expect a host of fire outerwear including a great iteration on the MA-1 and a field jacket covered in vintage-style patches, not to the mention the Noragi inspired by bomber jackets.
While the pricepoint may have you saving for a few months, the creatively layered looks from the collection should tide you over. Look for stockists including Farfetch and End Clothing to get a hold of these pieces outside of Asia.
JohnUndercover has found it’s niche with it’s spring/summer 2016 season. I was a bit skeptical of the diffusion line (if you can call it that) when it first launched. The price point being almost as high as mainline Undercover, the labels seemed to lack distinction in the crowded crop of current Japanese labels. That being said, it’s come on strong in more recent collections offering more pared down versions of Undercover concepts. It’s nice that the line is even more minimal on branding and graphics and more emphasis layering, color and materials.
The fall collection is strong on neutrals like tan, white and grey and uses them together to great effect. In this way, it’s achieving what every diffusion line should – creating something both familiar and different. JohnUndercover isn’t Undercover but it runs parallel to it the same way Gyakusou has embodied the running / technical side of UC. Looking back at the SS15 collection, there is a lot here that can be worked together with those pieces. While there’s no release date on any of this gear just yet, look for products from the fall collection to trickle into stores like SSENSE and Haven soon.
You may know the Japanese label Cyderhouse from seeing a few of it’s grail-status outerwear pieces on tumblr or around on the internet. It’s definetly not one of those brands you’ll see often outside of Japan. That being said, the label might be worth seeking out as it’s maximalist designs add alot of personality to tried and true men’s staples. Following up a strong SS15 showing, Cyderhouse once again brings it’s weird subcultural blend of references and combines it with interesting styling and a strong fit that’s not too slim and not too oversized. Check their website to see more from the collection.
Sophnet has amazingly been able to stay under the radar while delivering season after season of quality product. While the brand’s aesthetic is far from classy, it is assertive in it’s vision and place in the market. Coming out of the golden era of Japanese streetwear (think BAPE, UC, WTAPS and Neighborhood) Sophnet is a grown man’s update on the same solid street essentials). Just look to key pieces here like that workwear take on a baseball jacket or some of the banging outerwear (the fishtail parka and funnel neck jacket come to mind) to see what the fall collection is all about.
Hit the brand’s site for more info.
Deluxe is a reliable Japanese label for men’s staple items made with noticeable quality and care. Like many other labels from the country, the focus is on re-interpreting classic American vintage pieces but where the brand excels is updating these styles and keeping that level of quality construction while adding details and bring the fit up to modern standards.
A quick look at the selection on the website with everything from coats to bombers and denim on the Deluxe site.